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finn21 · 07-11-2014, 06:33 AM

I am in the process of updating a 1951 silver cloud, I would like to add air conditioning, preferably not on the roof. The center vent cannot be used because the bath partition is right on the edge of the vent. I could use the front vent, but it might look dorky. There is space under the front seat, 13" high, 18"deep and 3 feet wide. I have looked at sone commercial truck units but they all seem to be 24v, and I plan on using a small honda generator, 110v. Has anyone solved this problem? how much cooling do I need ifI do not plan on going anywhere where it is really hot? Price is not a big concern.

Belegedhel · 07-11-2014, 07:19 AM

Welcome to the Forums!

There are several threads on these forums discussing the use of a "split" AC system. These systems have the compressor unit on the exterior of the trailer, possibly mounted on the A-frame, and the evaporator part of the system installed somewhere on the interior, with coolant lines plumbed between the two, much like a conventional household central AC system. This may be an option for you--not a cheap one, by far.

I have also discussed with other owners using a window unit mounted under a cabinet and the enclosure customized so that the AC vents (on the compressor side) to the underside of the trailer. A set-up like this may be a good option for you. Perhaps more trouble to execute, but the pieces are off the shelf. One issue with having your AC installed low is that your cool air tends to stay near the floor--you'll need some additional fan to move the air throughout the cabin. The AC is also not likely to work as efficiently as a window unit installed in the window of a house, as the flow of air around the condenser coil will be somewhat stifled no matter how creative you are building the venting.

I wouldn't bother with the "portable AC" units you find for sale in retail stores. These typically use air from inside the cabin to cool the condenser coil and then vent it to the outside. So you are sucking the air you are trying to cool out of the cabin, and replacing it with hot are that comes in every leaky spot.

When you say you have a small Honda generator, what is the wattage rating? If you have a 2000 watt inverter, you aren't going to be able to run much of an AC off of it. Again, you are back in the territory of a small (5-8k BTU) window unit.

good luck!

finn21 · 07-12-2014, 06:07 AM

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the trailer is now some miles away for me to measure, but could there be room under the original refrig for the unit like they put in big trucks with a vent above the refrig to get the cold air up to the top? Yes I was planning on a 2000 w honda, 15 amps when plug in is not available.

wahoonc · 07-12-2014, 06:53 AM

I have an SOB that has a standard window unit as part of the factory install. I like it for two reasons, one is the reduced overhead, second is the reduced cost if the unit has to be replaced, $250 vs $800+ for an RV unit. My SOB is a 16' and uses an 8,000 Btu unit.

You will need some way to exhaust the hot air from the rear and sides of the unit. On my installation they put it in a cabinet up near the roof and used a standard RV fridge vent on the roof, with a plastic screen/cap on the sidewall. It is mounted in some sort of metal sleeve that is mounted in the cabinet.

Aaron