16 KBTU furnace

[Haoleman]

How does one remove it for servicing in Argosy 20?

[Haoleman]

Well, the furnace stopped making noise so no need to remove it. Hadn't been run for a couple of years. The only issue i have is the cap that covers the pilot (like a cap on a gallon can) which has a mica window (who needs to see inside there anyway?) needs a gasket but the instructions say to have a cap without a window for regular use. I can't find my model as it is an NT16. No letters or numbers after it. At PPL they have what looks the same in an NT17 for $3.50. I tried all the caps on my gallon paint and solvent cans but they are just slightly too large so that won't work. I need to seal it as it leaks exhaust fumes when it runs. I guess I could just use some gasket material to seal it but I would rather use what was intended for it. CO could be an issue.

[idroba]

That furnace was subject to Suburban's recall due to the rubber crossover tube which supplies the combustion air to the burner. Suburban no longer supplies the recall part or any support for the furnace, unfortunately. So a heads up, you really do need to pull the furnace and check to see if the rubber tube in the back has a red stripe on it. If it does, it has had the recall modification made. If not you have a potentially dangerous unit. You cannot see it without furnace removal.

The same furnace in my '71 Caravel kept giving me headaches and the windows kept fogging up badly in cool to cold weather. It turned out to have a rusted out combustion chamber (but it did have the recall modifications). Please be careful. Of course I replaced that furnace.

The NT 16 that came in my '74 Argosy 20 was in good condition, and had the recall modifications, but I replaced it as I wanted electronic ignition rather than a pilot light.

[Haoleman]

So if I remove it, what's the procedure? Is it only held in by the two screws that go into the floor by the rear access panel? Do I need to remove the outside trim and screws that hold the intake-exhaust assembly? I'm trying to avoid unnecessary tear down. I do smell exhaust but my CO alarm says all is fine. I know since the cap where you light the pilot doesn't have a gasket, it is leaking out of the cap. From my initial inspection, the combustion plenum looks good with little to no rust anywhere

[perryg114]

A photo would help. My unit that is probably similar to yours just required removing the gas line and wires (unplug them) and hoses. There were a couple sheet metal screws holding it to the floor. If you can slide the thing away from the wall without anything being in the way you can remove it without taking the vent off outside but there is one screw in the top vent hole that you need to remove. It is not hard to remove the vent anyway and it would make things easier.

Perry

[idroba]

As perry says, the one (always rusty) screw in the top vent hole must be removed as well as the gas and electrical lines and two screws into the floor. As I recall the outer vent cover does have to be removed on at least some of them, depending on when it was made.

Safety is very important here, and I am glad you are looking into it further.

[Haoleman]

Well, pulled it all apart and cleaned it. Vibration caused by a golf ball sized mud dauber nest in the fresh air squirrel cage. Pulled it all apart and lubed the bearings. Checked the transfer hose and it was fine. Placed hi temp silicone on all joints. Works fine now. Can't find a cap for the Pilot light port so manufacturing a hi temp silicone gasket to seal existing cap. Ran all day with my CO detector in there and all was well so I guess I am good to go.