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Old 07-10-2006, 11:05 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightdi
Melting adapters mean you are way over the limit for that device. You really need to put in a 30 amp RV plug box so you do not have to use a cheap adapter.
Oh I realized that. I think the AC unit was rated at 13 amps, that adapter I think was rated at 15. My point really was the fact that running the unit up on high really caused more cycling of the compressor, which in turn allowed that adapter to cool off between cycles. Running at low didn't allow that to happen which ultimately caused a melt down. Weak breakers exhibit a similar tendency in that a long run time on low might cause enough heat to cause that breaker to pop, whereas on high, the compressor cycles thus leading to less heat build up.

Granted I don't do this anymore. Thanks for the reminder though.

Jack
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Old 07-10-2006, 11:41 AM   #42
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i agree, i think the circuit breaker is doing its job. you probably need to go to a 30amp breaker.
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Old 07-10-2006, 12:12 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crowbar68
i agree, i think the circuit breaker is doing its job. you probably need to go to a 30amp breaker.
And 10 gauge wire. Don't shortcut and use 12 gauge. That would be dumb.
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Old 07-10-2006, 12:35 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry2952
And 10 gauge wire. Don't shortcut and use 12 gauge. That would be dumb.
i concur barry, that would be dumb.
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Old 07-10-2006, 01:04 PM   #45
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Over the 4th we were in central FL and the temp got up to 98 one day and our breaker at the camp ground pole kept tripping. All of the others around us did too. I figured it was kind of like a brown out. I was glad we were at the camp site because our dog would have been alone without A/C if we hadn't.

I assumed it happened because so many A/C's were working so hard to try and cool the various campers that the voltage available dropped too low. After a few minutes the breaker tripping stopped. I guess after enough breakers tripped cutting off power to the voltage hungery A/C units in our loop there was finally enough power available to run our A/C.

Next time I will switch the fan speed to high in stead of auto and see it that makes a difference. If it's going to be hot, I'll leave the fan speed on high when we leave as a safety precaution. However, I doubt that would have made a difference considering the other loading that was in place.
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Old 07-10-2006, 01:43 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate
Next time I will switch the fan speed to high in stead of auto and see it that makes a difference. If it's going to be hot, I'll leave the fan speed on high when we leave as a safety precaution. However, I doubt that would have made a difference considering the other loading that was in place.
Based on the fact that everyone was having issues, this probably wouldn't have helped you. At 98 degrees you probably should have that fan on high anyway just to get better air distribution and to allow you AC unit to run at its best efficency. You don't get much if any compressor cycling in those temps unless you are in the shade.

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Old 07-10-2006, 02:32 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenCoombe
I'm going to take a temp reading of the skin with a laser thermometer when it's complete just for a comparisson.
One thing I might add about IR/laser thermometers. They work by measuring the amount of infrared light emitted as heat by the object giving the temp measurement. When the visible spectrum of light is reflected, so is the invisible spectrum which includes the infrared band. So when you point your laser thermometer at the roof of your MOHO in the before senario, you are registering the infrared light waves that are being emitted as heat given off by the aluminum as well as the infrared light that is being reflected by the aluminum. When you paint the surface white, you will be reflecting more light, including infrared light, than the semi matt oxidized aluminum you had before. This will probably result in a higher reading with your hand held laser/infrared thermometer giving you a false higher reading. You would be more accurate to shade the spot you are taking the measurement from after it has sat in the direct sun long enough to reach its highest temperature. You can use your hand or a piece of cardboard or anything that is opaque to provide this shade to the actual spot AND the entire path between your thermometer and the spot you will take your measurement from to prevent reflected ambient infrared light from tainting the reading.
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Old 07-10-2006, 02:42 PM   #48
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I'm about to purchase an EPDM membrane roof for the "Toybox". I'm looking for some new sources as the prices I'm getting seem rediculous.

I priced 45 mil black rubber at $139. for a 10' x 50' roll. A 9 1/2' x 24' piece of EPDM from Camping World is $450.00. Wouldn't commercial roofing in white do the same thing?

Camping world offers gray, white and tan. Any difference in reflectivity of those colors?
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Old 07-11-2006, 09:14 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry2952
I'm about to purchase an EPDM membrane roof for the "Toybox". I'm looking for some new sources as the prices I'm getting seem rediculous.

I priced 45 mil black rubber at $139. for a 10' x 50' roll. A 9 1/2' x 24' piece of EPDM from Camping World is $450.00. Wouldn't commercial roofing in white do the same thing?

Camping world offers gray, white and tan. Any difference in reflectivity of those colors?
White is the most reflective since it reflects all light wave lengths and would result in the coolest temperature underneath. Tan would be the next coolest since it reflects more of the light band including the reds where most of the heat source colors are contained. Grey would be the least since, like black, it absorbs the most colors. In other words, the tan would reflect the red spectrum including the infrared which includes most of the heat source of light. The grey absorbs most of the light spectrum including the reds where the most of the heat containing red color is.

You could try an RV dealer for a quote or you could check with a commercial roofer who specializes in single ply roofs. It might be too exotic for a commercial roofer, but if not I would think $7-$10 per square foot should be about right depending on your area.
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