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Old 07-04-2006, 06:44 AM   #15
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The major function of AC is to remove humidity. The human body can tolerate and feel more comfortable in higher temperatures if the humidity is low.

Many people will try to cool a home or trailer after leaving the unit off for a period of time to save money. Economically, you are better off leaving the AC on all the time, on a thermostat. This will draw the humidity in the space out of the wood, furniture and other belongings and allow you to be comfortable at a higher temperature setting.

When I rebuilt my toybox I sprayed 2"-3" of structural foam into all the wall and ceiling cavaties and now it's like a Thermos.

BTW, your circuit breaker could be defective. They are simply a electro-mechanical device that can become sensetive after being tripped a couple of times. CB replacement resolves most AC issues. If the new CB trips, look further. Never install a CB that is higher in ampacity than the wre size will allow. 15-amps for 14-gauge, 20-amps for 12-gauge and 30-amps for 10-gauge. The allowable wattages are 1320, 2000 and 3000 respectively.
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Old 07-04-2006, 11:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry2952
The major function of AC is to remove humidity. The human body can tolerate and feel more comfortable in higher temperatures if the humidity is low.

Many people will try to cool a home or trailer after leaving the unit off for a period of time to save money. Economically, you are better off leaving the AC on all the time, on a thermostat. This will draw the humidity in the space out of the wood, furniture and other belongings and allow you to be comfortable at a higher temperature setting.

When I rebuilt my toybox I sprayed 2"-3" of structural foam into all the wall and ceiling cavaties and now it's like a Thermos.

BTW, your circuit breaker could be defective. They are simply a electro-mechanical device that can become sensetive after being tripped a couple of times. CB replacement resolves most AC issues. If the new CB trips, look further. Never install a CB that is higher in ampacity than the wre size will allow. 15-amps for 14-gauge, 20-amps for 12-gauge and 30-amps for 10-gauge. The allowable wattages are 1320, 2000 and 3000 respectively.
Not to be a 'nit-pick' here, but wattage is figured as P=IE, so you multiply volts (120) X amps to get the allowable wattage for a circuit. 15 amp lines allow 1800 watts, 20 amp lines allow 2400 watts and 30 amp lines allow 3600 watts.
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Old 07-04-2006, 11:34 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Jim Clark
I believe freezing up is a sign of a unit which is short on gas or dirty. You want a good sweat back on the suction line, which is the bigger one also called the low pressure line. I know my unit is working great when I seen the condensation coming down the drain tube and pooling on the ground. Same for my home unit.

Jim
Freezing ocurs when the moist air passes through an evaporator that has below freezing temps. The moisture freezes to the evap. and blocks air flow. This condition is common when the thermostate is set to low and operating in very humid conditions.The easiest way to prevent freezing is to raise the thermostate setting.---pieman
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Old 07-04-2006, 01:35 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Mike Lewis
Freezing ocurs when the moist air passes through an evaporator that has below freezing temps. The moisture freezes to the evap. and blocks air flow. This condition is common when the thermostate is set to low and operating in very humid conditions.The easiest way to prevent freezing is to raise the thermostate setting.---pieman

....and make sure that fan speed is up. Dirty air filters or too slow an air speed will tend to allow ice to form.

Jack
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Old 07-04-2006, 03:00 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by lewster
Not to be a 'nit-pick' here, but wattage is figured as P=IE, so you multiply volts (120) X amps to get the allowable wattage for a circuit. 15 amp lines allow 1800 watts, 20 amp lines allow 2400 watts and 30 amp lines allow 3600 watts.
That would be true, if you were not an electrician, which I am. The rule of thumb is that you should never load a circuit in excess of 80% of its capacity. I like to use 75%, but then I'm a cautious person.

In addition, should voltage be 110 volts there is a proportional decrease in the capacity of the circuit. Your formula does not allow for voltage fluctuations, which I'm sure we've all experienced.
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Old 07-04-2006, 03:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry2952
That would be true, if you were not an electrician, which I am. The rule of thumb is that you should never load a circuit in excess of 80% of its capacity. I like to use 75%, but then I'm a cautious person.

In addition, should voltage be 110 volts there is a proportional decrease in the capacity of the circuit. Your formula does not allow for voltage fluctuations, which I'm sure we've all experienced.
Hey Guys, I'll have to crack the books to be sure but I think when dealing with inductance devices like ac motors the formula is P=IE times the cosine of Theta which would be the phase angle of the windings.

Whew, I usually just tear about 10 percent off the top of the P=IE formula or measure the actual current in amps. There are several small inline Amp/Watt gauges that look like a short extension cord. I like to keep one in the trailer to keep an eye on Watt (sorry) is going on. If anyone needs one I will post the source.

Steve
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Old 07-04-2006, 04:08 PM   #21
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Yes, if you tear off 10% from the formula using 110-volts our answers come very close together. Do you concur?
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Old 07-04-2006, 05:42 PM   #22
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Yup, I agree. Sorry for tryin to show off. Just tring to stretch my brain a little. The best answer was your idea on low voltage. Usually when someone ask me about this situation I will find about 105 volts. It makes ac motors mad and draws more current.

steve
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Old 07-04-2006, 05:56 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry2952
That would be true, if you were not an electrician, which I am. The rule of thumb is that you should never load a circuit in excess of 80% of its capacity. I like to use 75%, but then I'm a cautious person.

In addition, should voltage be 110 volts there is a proportional decrease in the capacity of the circuit. Your formula does not allow for voltage fluctuations, which I'm sure we've all experienced.
hey barry, don't you suppose the capacitors in the airconditioner would bring the power factor to unity?

or are they just for starting the unit?

it would be interesting to put a var meter on a running unit and see what ya get!

i certainly do not disagree about the 80% rule. at the power company we have tried to run lines in emergencies at 110% with bad results!

john
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Old 07-04-2006, 06:23 PM   #24
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Yup, I agree. Sorry for tryin to show off.

steve
No problem, I was just trying to help. I reread my post and I guess I sounded a little snotty.

I'm just concerned when people believe they can put full wattage on a residential electrical circuit. Yes, the wire can take the full wattage but the devices can't, especially with the inherent vibration of a motor home or trailer. Couple that with typical overloading from use of all the appliances available today and it gets pretty scary.
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Old 07-04-2006, 06:50 PM   #25
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What power utility do you guys use? I haven't seen 110 VAC for years. The last time I plugged in my Fluke RMS multimeter, it read between 119-121 VAC .
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Old 07-04-2006, 07:00 PM   #26
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when i hook up a new residential customer i like to see 125volts at the transformer.

when you calculate line loss in the service you should be 120/123v at the meter.

tip of the day: buy 130v light bulbs! they last longer!

john

ps, lew fluke meters are iffy at best, my shop meter is a good old simpson!
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Old 07-04-2006, 08:07 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by lewster
What power utility do you guys use? I haven't seen 110 VAC for years. The last time I plugged in my Fluke RMS multimeter, it read between 119-121 VAC .
Most of my experiance is at marinas. Poor grounding and moisture damage along with overloading is probably worse there
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Old 07-09-2006, 10:55 PM   #28
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Back home again and catching up on posts. We lost WiFi access so I wasn't able to report on the campground voltage. It stayed a steady 110 VAC everytime I measured it. Are you guys saying that is marginal? I was beginning to think we may have a bad breaker. If I tried Auto fan while the outside temps were high (even after the humidity dropped) it would consistently trip after a while (hour?). It worked fine in the evening. So it was High fan and high noise levels during the day. Once we moved up to 7k feet and the SW monsoon kicked in the AC was no longer an issue (lighting strikes and flooding took over). And I am happy to say the Safari SE remained leak proof.
Thanks,
Ken
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