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Old 07-07-2011, 08:03 PM   #1
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will a good quality residential range survive in an Airstream?

Tried one of the Fisher & Paykel dual fuel Propane / 120v and really liked it.
Has a Wok burner
and the electric oven is 2200W 240v which I can handle with my inverter or shore power.

This is how the electrical load breaks down..
- Lower heating element (double) 500 + 1300 W
- Upper heating element 1000 W
- Grill heating element 2000 W
- Circular heating element 2200 W

If I decide to go this route will it survive in an Airstream?

Are RV ranges that much different than a residential range?

Thanks..


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Old 07-07-2011, 08:13 PM   #2
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The products of company Fisher & Paykel look everybody fantastic!
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Old 07-07-2011, 08:39 PM   #3
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3 things - weight could be an issue - size could be an issue - durability could be an issue.
They look well built and beefy. I have to think they would weigh more than a typical RV appliance.
Most RV oven/cooktops don't have the bottom drawer so this may affect where it's placed in the trailer. Limits setting it over the wheel wells.
Are these built to handle the constant movement/vibration that an RV appliance is subject to when traveling?
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Old 07-07-2011, 08:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmotini View Post
3 things - weight could be an issue - size could be an issue - durability could be an issue.
They look well built and beefy. I have to think they would weigh more than a typical RV appliance.
Most RV oven/cooktops don't have the bottom drawer so this may affect where it's placed in the trailer. Limits setting it over the wheel wells.
Are these built to handle the constant movement/vibration that an RV appliance is subject to when traveling?
Im starting with a blank floorplan so placement is not really a problem..

It is 24" wide and counter depth..

Seem VERY well made..

I could break it down and hit everything with locktite red..

Had this in the book but It may be in all the books as boilerplate:

Quote:
3. Installation in Recreational Park Trailers: installation must
conform with state or other codes or, in the absence of
such codes, with the Standard for Recreational Park
Trailers, ANSI A119.5.
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Old 07-07-2011, 09:23 PM   #5
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I'm not 100% sure but I think park trailers stay stationary once they're setup. I'd contact the manufacturer about using them in an RV that travels.
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Old 07-07-2011, 09:30 PM   #6
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1. RV "Park" trailers are more like small mobile homes and once set up the axles are removed.

2. I doubt you will have enough battery power to bake a cake on inverter and think you should plan to use it on gas anytime you did not have 50amp service.

3. I would install propane only but that is me, I suspect it would hold up OK.

4. A gas range "must have" a vent to the outside so where ever you put it you will have to install a vent.
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Old 07-07-2011, 10:29 PM   #7
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Most likely under the existing roof vent on my 31'

Well lets see 24v 428ah @ 4hr rate (570 @ 24hr -or- 4X 12v @ 258ah -or- 660lb of AGM eek)

2200w / 24v = 92a

428 / 92 = 4.65 hours till zip.. < you would not want to do that

30min avg to bake a cake

4.65 * 0.5 = 9.3 cakes if I drove my bank into the ground not counting the 10% loss in the inversion process and the design factor at a given temp.

I have not had my coffee so i dont stand by the math 100%
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:49 AM   #8
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Where do you find 240v at an RV park? I guess you don't plan to travel with it?

Pat
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmclemore
Where do you find 240v at an RV park? I guess you don't plan to travel with it?

Pat
I can convert 30 amp 120 shore power to 240 through my on board inverter

Or

The 50 amp 240 receptical as I'm building mine for 50a 240v like the big campers
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:28 AM   #10
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RV ranges are smaller.

RV range: 22w x 22h x 20d

F&P range: 24w x 36h x 24d

Since a household range will extend all the way to the floor you lose a few inches in depth due to the slight rounding of the trailer walls so you'd end up losing 6-8" in corridor space. I would think that's the main drawback.

You would also want a matching wider range hood.
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:34 AM   #11
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Jammer, that's a good point! Had not thought of the curve
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Old 07-08-2011, 12:18 PM   #12
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CAUTION:

Fisher & Pascal is a great appliances and i have installed those in Yachts and some larger RV's. Here your biggest Concern: if you buy the European version for 240Volt, they WILL NOT work on 240V US because US is 60HZ Cycle and European is 50HZ. Your converter will boost the voltage but not change frequencies. I know, some people will now say, its a stove, don't worry about frequency, BUT the internal electronics, starters, clock and so on will NOT work. (been there done that ). So My Advice : try to get a US Version or a different manufacturer, that has a nice Oven/ Stove.
Also , if you update to a large oven / stove, i would strongly recommend to either change the camper to 50 Amp service or add a second 30 amp Supply. your single 30 amp supply will not handle the stove and the AC. Unless you have only one at the time on.
Also run a new wire to the breaker panel in the correct size. The factory "receptacle " wire is too small and will burn.

My 2 cents

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Electrical Engineer
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Old 07-08-2011, 12:30 PM   #13
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Thanks Stefan

The one I am looking at is 240v 60hz and I am wiring 50a service
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Old 07-08-2011, 01:08 PM   #14
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thats good. here some more info : If you run all burners at the same time, you are at 7000W , which comes out to 30 Amp.
Use at least a 10 gauge cable. It is rated for 35 Amp Max.
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