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2vets · 10-21-2012, 10:13 AM

So we are on the fence on whether to put our original 1960 Princess oven back into our trailer. We called numerous propane and appliance stores in the area but no one would touch it with a 10 foot pole! It has some surface rust on it but otherwise it is in pretty good shape. So we hooked it up outside with our barbecue propane tank and voila...everything worked! It did leak slightly at the oven fitting but we tightened it and the leak stopped. However, the oven appeared to have only one setting so I think the thermostat is broken. Can the thermostat be fixed? See photos below of burned cookies! However, there is absolutely NO safety features on this stove and it appears that it was placed in its original spot in the trailer with a layer of asbestos paper on the bottom. How safe is this really?? We love the look of the stove and it obviously would fit right back into the trailer since we have the original furniture. So airforums members...what is your opinion?

Frank's Trailer Works · 10-21-2012, 11:47 AM

You will never find a better RV stove, except a Dixie and they are floor models. That is my opinion(you asked for opinions). Replace the thermocouple and you will have different temperatures. I always bake on 500 so I do not need the lower temps. All the parts can be powder coated and made to look like brand new.

I should preface my opinion with the fact we cook at home on a 1948 model B Chambers stove. I love gas cooking and the older the stove the better they work(in my opinion).

2vets · 10-21-2012, 11:56 AM

How do we go about replacing the thermocouple? Chambers stoves are BEAUTIFUL so I totally understand your opinion!

Globie64 · 10-21-2012, 12:06 PM

We're kind of in the same boat- I had the gas system in our rig gone through and made to work, including the '64 Magic Chef. The oven bakes like a dream, and two burners work. Two don't and it leaks gas, so I turn the gas to it off when I'm not using it. I think I'd try to find someone to go through your range and make sure it's okay, gas appliances aren't something to mess around with. I would imagine that you can find a vintage appliance repair person who might at least know the issues to look for.

markdoane · 10-21-2012, 12:16 PM

Your capillary is stuck or has a small leak. Replace the control valve with a new one from Stoveparts.net and you will be a happy cookie.
I would remove the asbestos.

Globie64 · 10-21-2012, 01:00 PM

Is the control valve a solution for leaking too?

btw, love your sodium joke.

markdoane · 10-21-2012, 01:03 PM

Yes. The Control Valve/Thermostat is the same thing, and the capillary and bulb are part of the assembly.

Globie64 · 10-21-2012, 01:09 PM

that CV will fit a Wolf, it's okay to use something like that for a little RV range on propane?

2vets · 10-21-2012, 01:14 PM

Hey Markodane...how did you get the inside of your stove top all silver and shiny...did you repaint it? Thanks for the link....that looks exactly like what I need!! I love it when you click on a link and it gives you the exact item you want. You rock! Plus your sodium joke is too funny..my daughter is right this second studying AP Chem and she liked it too! One more quick question...I forgot to turn off the propane to the stove after the burned cookie experiment and went outside 10 minutes later to turn it off. Even though all of the knobs were turned to the off position there was a distinct obvious propane smell in the air. Even though there are no obvious leaks from the soapy water test and after we tightened the one leaky spot...where else do I look for a leak. Do people install a separate propane shut off valve to the stove and shut it down after every use? Sorry for all the questions, as a veterinarian, the only gas I deal with comes out of the intestinal tract!!

Globie64 · 10-21-2012, 01:39 PM

I lift the top of the range and use the shutoff valve on the gas from the trailer to the rig. I think all gas appliances have an individual shutoff, or should. It's not meant to be for every use, but in our case we were camping and realized we smelled gas, no obvious quick fix, and this allowed us to continue using it without the pesky gas smell. When we're using the cooktop or oven, there is no gas smell. Fortunately, as an architect, this is the only kind of gas I encounter working.

markdoane · 10-21-2012, 02:04 PM

The burner tray was repainted and I think I used high temperature paint from POR. The size of the replacement valve is the same as the original BJ thermostat. All the tubing fittings are the same, and I know it works well. It will overshoot the setpoint a little on come-up, but then settles in nicely.

I think the propane smell may be due to the pilot. I never smell it when the oven is off, and I think a little propane smell may be expected when it is running. I think it is important to make sure the pilot is adjusted properly when you put in the new valve. The oven will fire and then shut off as the control valve opens and closes. When it reopens the pilot re-lights the burner.

There is no safety shut-off valve on these ovens. If the pilot goes out the control valve will stay open. When you turn the thermostat control to OFF, it closes both the main and the pilot. You need to relight the pilot each time you use the oven, but the pilot should stay lit while you are using it.

You might need to trim the sheet metal around the stove top to allow access to the pilot adjusting valve, it is oriented a little differently than the OEM valve. This picture shows the trim I did on mine.

Haoleman · 10-21-2012, 02:26 PM

As an appliance servicer for 30 years, I have never met a gas stove I couldn't repair. The advantage is you can always find an oven control that will work, even if you have to modify the mount and many of the residential valve assemblies are much better than what comes in any RV as they many times have much closer temp tolerances so your oven might actually cook better. I have never met an RV oven that was worth a c--p. They all either burn stuff or cook really unevenly. The only possible solution is a better oven control or a complete redesign of the oven which isn't going to happen.

reinergirl · 10-21-2012, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Haoleman

As an appliance servicer for 30 years, I have never met a gas stove I couldn't repair. The advantage is you can always find an oven control that will work, even if you have to modify the mount and many of the residential valve assemblies are much better than what comes in any RV as they many times have much closer temp tolerances so your oven might actually cook better. I have never met an RV oven that was worth a c--p. They all either burn stuff or cook really unevenly. The only possible solution is a better oven control or a complete redesign of the oven which isn't going to happen.

Haoleman,
Actually the stoves in this era (early 60’s) were apartment stoves. Not specifically made for RV's. Have you ever modified one of these vintage stoves to have a modern safety valve? Is it even possible? I'm convinced, like you are, that the modern rv stoves aren't high quality and would like to fix my Magic Chef stove too.

Globie64 · 10-21-2012, 04:52 PM

Markdoane,

My pilot stays on when the oven is off- there are two pilots for the oven, a big one that stays lit, and a secondary that lights, and then the burner lights when the oven is turned on. Once the pilot in the oven is lit, you can just turn it on or off at will, same with the cooktop burners. When the burners and oven are off, but the pilot is lit, I smell the gas, and it's noticeable after about 5 minutes. When I turn on a burner or the oven, the gas smell goes away (maybe the burner releases the pressure in the manifold and the leak is reduced?) I'm all over the new valve idea, thanks to all of you for the valuable information.

markdoane · 10-21-2012, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Globie64

Markdoane,

My pilot stays on when the oven is off- there are two pilots for the oven, a big one that stays lit, and a secondary that lights, and then the burner lights when the oven is turned on. Once the pilot in the oven is lit, you can just turn it on or off at will, same with the cooktop burners. When the burners and oven are off, but the pilot is lit, I smell the gas, and it's noticeable after about 5 minutes. When I turn on a burner or the oven, the gas smell goes away (maybe the burner releases the pressure in the manifold and the leak is reduced?) I'm all over the new valve idea, thanks to all of you for the valuable information.

Sorry Globie, I have a different thermostat and I don't want to diagnose something I'm not familiar with. I don't think the thermostat I linked to above is the same as the one in your oven.

2vets · 10-21-2012, 07:39 PM

More photos of what my oven looks like on the inside. To be honest I am not even sure there is a pilot light in the oven... I will have to rehook it up tomorrow and check it out!

Haoleman · 10-22-2012, 05:07 AM

As to the gas smell, the only way to find it is to use a leak checking solution. We used to use a product we called 'Gorilla Snot". It was thick and green! It comes in an 8 oz bottle and I believe you can find it at HD. It's called gas leak detector by Highside. It has a dauber attached to the cap and will cling to the surface being tested and even the smallest leak can be found. I suspect that you have a leak where the pilot gas line connects to the pilot burner. The ferrule connection on the line might be loose and many times, with a gas ferrule, these are a one shot deal. If it leaks, you need to cut the line or remove it and install a new pilot gas line and new ferrules. That will most likely solve it. Also, be sure that your pilot flame is not too high as it will cause soot if it's burning orange and that might be what you are smelling. As to oven temps, if you need to recalibrate it the oven thermostat, if adjustable, will have a small screw, usually in the shaft. Just remember "CLOD" Clockwise to Decrease. Holding the shaft, an 1/8 turn of the calibration screw should make about a 10-20 degree difference. Check it with a quality oven thermometer; not the retail store types. Get one at a restaurant supply or if you have a thermocouple for your DVM you can use that. Be sure after each screw adjustment, you let the oven stabilize for at least 15 minutes before rechecking the temp. Now if you don't have an adjustable thermostat, the know itself might be adjustable. Just pull it off and look on the back of it.

2vets · 10-22-2012, 03:40 PM

Thanks for everyone's replies..very helpful!!

markdoane · 10-22-2012, 04:10 PM

The smaller diameter aluminum tube is the pilot.
You light the oven by holding at match at the end of the steel tube that sticks out the front, which lights the main burner, then the pilot lights itself from the main burner. The pilot will stay lit as the burner cycles on and off, then will extinguish when you turn the thermostat to OFF.

rumrunner · 10-25-2012, 07:47 PM

rebuilding my original oven is on my winter to-do list so this thread is a great help. Anybody know what kind of insulation to use and where to source it?
tim