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11-01-2010, 12:35 PM
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#21
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moderator
Commercial Member
2016 27' International
Currently Looking...
Wilton
, California
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,711
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Thats great news Carol. If you can fire off a picture of the final installation that would be great. You are ahead of me with your project.
Thanks Vinnie
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11-01-2010, 03:31 PM
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#22
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
Oak View
, California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 1,063
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I'll take photos as we do the installation since like you, there are some dimension revisions that will have to be done. The Magic Chef is a slightly smaller width size than my current opening so I imagine two shims will be needed, I have two big an opening depthwise, have to find something to fill that and take off an inch of the cabinet area down below so the height will fit in. There seem to be a lot of rivets around all the top edges so I am not sure if that is also securing the stove in place along with the side screws. Not sure how you get those out either which is why I have a repair guy....
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11-01-2010, 03:59 PM
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#23
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moderator
Commercial Member
2016 27' International
Currently Looking...
Wilton
, California
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,711
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Keep us posted.. Thx
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11-07-2010, 04:06 PM
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#24
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moderator
Commercial Member
2016 27' International
Currently Looking...
Wilton
, California
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,711
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Today was oven installation day. Picked up the Magic Chef model CLY2220BDB13. It seems that Maytag, Amana and Magic Chef are all from the same manufacture? Remember Im taking out a Maytag 3 burner cooktop and three drawers for this installation. The cooktop also had the corian folding top that I really wanted to keep (more on that later).
Once I removed the cooktop I noticed that it sat in a nice metal lip that allowed it to be supported all the way around. This seemed to be overkill for the cooktop but I was hoping it would work for the oven since the oven is just hung from the upper ledge. I ran into another problem involving the depth of the compartment. Airstream installs a panel so the drawers have something to attach the runners to. Now that the drawers have been removed there is no need for runners and the panel could be removed. The installation was very simple just basically slide the oven back into place on the supporting metal ledge the cooktop sat in. The gas line was in perfect position with nothing to do but attach the fitting. With the oven installed I have about 5 to 6 inches from the rear wall and about a 1 1/2 inch clearance on the sides. The bottom has a gap thats open of about an inch. I feel good about this as heat (if any) can excape and there is a good visual underneath. The only problem I ran into was the cover. The new cooktop grills are one piece and the cover folds in two pieces. When folding flush the center section would make contact with the grill. It was necessary to notch the cover to fit over the grill and sit flush on the rubber stops. Now the cover fits flush. This is an easy DIY project. Cant wait for that apple pie!
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11-07-2010, 04:56 PM
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#25
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
Oak View
, California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 1,063
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You win, mine hasn't even shown up yet... Your's looks beautiful and it doesn't sound like the job was too difficult. Knock on wood or those will be famous last words for me.
Good work!
Carol
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11-07-2010, 06:09 PM
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#26
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moderator
Commercial Member
2016 27' International
Currently Looking...
Wilton
, California
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,711
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Thats ok Carol.. now its your turn! If you have any questions ask now before I forget...
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11-07-2010, 06:24 PM
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#27
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
Oak View
, California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 1,063
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Where did you have to bolt it to secure it? Was it hard getting the old one out?
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11-07-2010, 06:37 PM
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#28
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moderator
Commercial Member
2016 27' International
Currently Looking...
Wilton
, California
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,711
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Carol,
It was very easy to remove the cooktop. The metal flange that the cooktop sits in can stay in place (unless you want to remove it to clean it) and then the oven can slide right in its place. The oven instructions call for atleast 4 #8 screws to hold it in place but the flange allows for full support all the way around with 6 screws doing that job. Then the oven itself mounts to the flange with the four screws that were holding in the cooktop. Its really pretty easy since I went with the same brand. There have been some advancements in the top burners since the old days so I think you will be really happy and the oven is easier to lite now as well.
Vinnie
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11-07-2010, 06:59 PM
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#29
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,669
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Slide,
Looks just like my factory install, except black instead of stainless. I believe the space at the bottom is unnecessary. I'll have to look next time I'm out at the "lot" but I believe the wood piece at the top of the bottom door is just taller. I don't think you need any "ventilation" down there. I believe these units are all cool to touch on outer walls and utilize a heat vent at the rear of the burners right where the lid hinges upward.
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11-07-2010, 07:50 PM
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#30
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moderator
Commercial Member
2016 27' International
Currently Looking...
Wilton
, California
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g
Slide,
Looks just like my factory install, except black instead of stainless. I believe the space at the bottom is unnecessary. I'll have to look next time I'm out at the "lot" but I believe the wood piece at the top of the bottom door is just taller. I don't think you need any "ventilation" down there. I believe these units are all cool to touch on outer walls and utilize a heat vent at the rear of the burners right where the lid hinges upward.
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Thanks Dznf0g,
If the space isn't necessary I still have the drawer dividers that I could cut and piece back in as if it was always there. Let me know what you think when you check yours out.
Thanks Vinnie
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11-07-2010, 09:39 PM
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#31
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,377
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Hi, I can already smell the Meat Loaf in the oven. Nice job Vinnie.
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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11-12-2010, 10:25 PM
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#32
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airslide
Thanks Dznf0g,
If the space isn't necessary I still have the drawer dividers that I could cut and piece back in as if it was always there. Let me know what you think when you check yours out.
Thanks Vinnie
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Slide,
Here ya go.
The wood stringer is just a shade less than 2" ( like 1 - 31/32") tall
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11-12-2010, 10:36 PM
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#33
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moderator
Commercial Member
2016 27' International
Currently Looking...
Wilton
, California
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,711
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Thankyou for the visual information. Maybe the venting isn't necessary. I have the original wood pieces from the drawer dividers.. I think I will measure one out and refit it back into place.
Thanks Vinnie
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11-12-2010, 10:50 PM
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#34
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airslide
Thankyou for the visual information. Maybe the venting isn't necessary. I have the original wood pieces from the drawer dividers.. I think I will measure one out and refit it back into place.
Thanks Vinnie
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You're more than welcome. It seems to be tough to get as much info on newer units as it is for the vintage stuff. I suppose it makes sense though.
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