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doorgunner · 04-04-2007, 11:13 PM

stainless is non-magnetic. so as to say if your frig magnet won't stick to your cook top then it's probably stainless or titanium, magnesium.The cover on my stove looks stainless but will hold a magnet. I don't know what it is but it had small rust spots on it, I removed them with navel jelly and 400 grit sandpaper.

steelbird312 · 04-05-2007, 06:16 AM

Stainless steel is an alloy made from steel and nickel. The quality depends on the percentage of nickel. The lower the nickel content, the lower the quality, and the higher the magnetic capability. The tops are of a very low grade stainless, which improved as the Magic Chef productions got newer.

That is true today as well with low quality stainless, including some cheapo fasteners.

Chuck · 04-05-2007, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steelbird312

Stainless steel is an alloy made from steel and nickel. The quality depends on the percentage of nickel. The lower the nickel content, the lower the quality, and the higher the magnetic capability. The tops are of a very low grade stainless, which improved as the Magic Chef productions got newer.

That is true today as well with low quality stainless, including some cheapo fasteners.

so...either way, if the top is *stainless*...low or high nickel content...the pits should sand out??

Hank A · 04-05-2007, 09:25 AM

PO had painted our stove top to cover the pits and corrosion, which were way beyond sanding after stripping the paint. I tried. A solution that satisfied me and is virtually un-noticible unless you are looking for the "Magic Chef" emblem was to veneer a new sheet of stainless just shy of the original top measurement. It was attached with 5 minute epoxy. The hole to lift it was marked by placing the sheet UNDER the cover and marking it for exact fit prior to drilling/cutting the new hole. Finishing of the hole with a dremel and then round an flat files to smooth the edges was the hardest part of the whole job. The veneer will fit nicely and will not affect the hinge operation if cut to fit just inside the the lips of the cover from underneath. It also allows you to align it when the epoxy is applied by lining the top up with the existing finger hole for opening. Total cost was about 3 bucks for the epoxy (still a lot left) and about $25 for the veneer. Time envolved about 1 hour and results are that the curbside kitchen cover on the Overlander, and the first thing you see when you enter makes the whole kitchen look good. Hint if you try this: Make sure the "grain" of the new veneer runs the same direction as the old top.

pamelake · 04-05-2007, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hank A

PO had painted our stove top to cover the pits and corrosion, which were way beyond sanding after stripping the paint. I tried. A solution that satisfied me and is virtually un-noticible unless you are looking for the "Magic Chef" emblem was to veneer a new sheet of stainless just shy of the original top measurement. It was attached with 5 minute epoxy. The hole to lift it was marked by placing the sheet UNDER the cover and marking it for exact fit prior to drilling/cutting the new hole. Finishing of the hole with a dremel and then round an flat files to smooth the edges was the hardest part of the whole job. The veneer will fit nicely and will not affect the hinge operation if cut to fit just inside the the lips of the cover from underneath. It also allows you to align it when the epoxy is applied by lining the top up with the existing finger hole for opening. Total cost was about 3 bucks for the epoxy (still a lot left) and about $25 for the veneer. Time envolved about 1 hour and results are that the curbside kitchen cover on the Overlander, and the first thing you see when you enter makes the whole kitchen look good. Hint if you try this: Make sure the "grain" of the new veneer runs the same direction as the old top.

I like this idea! I am sorry to be so full of questions, but where did you buy the stainless veneer? Pam

Hank A · 04-05-2007, 10:51 AM

Pam, Interesting question, it took me a while. Find a sheet metal shop in your area and they will probably have "scrap" pieces stored or around the shear from other jobs. The first one I went to didn't want to fool with the small job and the second one stopped what they were doing and accommodated me right then. I don't have pics of it, but will try and take some for you, but it will be next week. Not sure of the gauge, but the veneer is thinner than the original cover and being that thin there doesn't even appear to be any difference in the height of the cover when it is closed and added virtually no extra weight to the cover.

steelbird312 · 04-05-2007, 03:34 PM

Chuck,
The pits will eventually sand out HOWEVER, depending on their depth and severity, it might not be prudent!
Rust can be removed with several agents, however, the pits will be there unless mechanically removed.
I like the veneer idea. The only thing of concern to me would be the method of bonding the two. Personally, and that is NOT meant to say the glue is wrong, but if I were doing one for myself, I would look seriously at the veneering using STAINLESS rivets to join the two along with a high heat resistant bonding agent to prevent rattles.

Chuck · 04-05-2007, 04:10 PM

I don't think you could veneer the stove top itself, which is what I'm talking about. its not flat. the burner pans are formed into the metal...."pressed", I would imagine.
the folding cover looks like a different material, to me, but again, I'm no expert. not sure if that is actually "stainless", or some other kind of shiny metal. haven't done the magnet test to it.

Hammer · 04-05-2007, 04:22 PM

Pam,
The only finishes I have ever seen on a range top or oven door are porcelain, stainless steel or "brushed chrome". I would never recommend painting or powder coating these two areas because of the heat. My first suggestion would be to contact Magic Chef and see if there is any possibility of purchasing these two parts. Be sure to get the model and serial number before you call them. If a magnet sticks to these surfaces they're probably brushed chrome, sanding may improve them somewhat.
I don't think porcelain can be applied over chrome. The chrome would have to be stripped, then cover with real porcelain.
Are you sure you want to go to this much time and trouble over that old of a range? If the oven thermostat fails your probably looking at over two hundred dollars to repair. That's the best that 40 years in major appliances have taught me, I hope it helps you.
Mike

steelbird312 · 04-05-2007, 08:43 PM

Chuck, Occassionally, I have seen the old Magic Chef top included when an old stove is replaced. I myself have disposed of too many.
I have never yet seen one in an Airstream that was the brushed chrome. I have a good one in my 89 trailer now that is in excellent condition, and it is the stainless. I am in MS right now, still doing Katrina volunteer work, but should be home within a week. I have the phone number of the business just outside of BHM AL that probably has the largest inventory of NOS Airstream parts in the country. You could try them.
I'm not saying the veneer is THE solution, however, I would be open to the attempt.
Gosh, I have no idea what made my computer change fonts- I will figure it out though.