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Old 01-14-2007, 03:03 PM   #15
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Pamela,
As for the powder coating; the material used for powder coating is actually a 'plastic' material (I'm keeping it simple here) that sticks to the item sprayed, as uwe said, it is electrically charged to make it stick all over, Then it is heated in an oven for a specific period of time until it melts or flows together, giving the item a slick coating. I have one of these machines in the small version. I would not recommend powdercoating the grills or anything that would have flame on it of anysignificance as powdercoating will scorch, and even if it doesn't scorch, it will craze or crack when exposed to greater than curing heat, which will allow corrosion to form underneath and then they will be in bad shape again.You possibly could still buy new grills, or check on having them porcelain coated.
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Old 01-14-2007, 10:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelbird312
Pamela,
As for the powder coating; the material used for powder coating is actually a 'plastic' material (I'm keeping it simple here) that sticks to the item sprayed, as uwe said, it is electrically charged to make it stick all over, Then it is heated in an oven for a specific period of time until it melts or flows together, giving the item a slick coating. I have one of these machines in the small version. I would not recommend powdercoating the grills or anything that would have flame on it of anysignificance as powdercoating will scorch, and even if it doesn't scorch, it will craze or crack when exposed to greater than curing heat, which will allow corrosion to form underneath and then they will be in bad shape again.You possibly could still buy new grills, or check on having them porcelain coated.
Thanks for the thoughts, I took a closer look today at the grills and I think they are in okay enough shape that I can just clean them real good. Especially since the other options sound rather difficult. The rest is stainless... the 'pan' under the grills is quite pitted like the cover. It has been suggested that I could have them replated with chrome. I will look into the local places that Ewe researched for me when the holiday weekend is over. You guys are great! Now I am going to start bothering people about electrical stuff....
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Old 01-15-2007, 05:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pamelake
... It has been suggested that I could have them replated with chrome...
Keep in mind that the chrome plating process will only coat the existing surface with chrome. If any pits are present, the process will not fill them in - the pits will still be present in the final product.

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Old 02-07-2007, 02:18 PM   #18
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There is a fellow in Gresham "Refininshing by Tim," I believe is the name, he quoted me 60.00 to re-do my stove top, light rust. David
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Old 04-04-2007, 08:20 PM   #19
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Question

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Originally Posted by pfefferd
There is a fellow in Gresham "Refininshing by Tim," I believe is the name, he quoted me 60.00 to re-do my stove top, light rust. David
I tried someone in Gresham I thought was the right guy and he said 'no' to a re-do. I am frustrated cuz my Magic Chef is fine, it is just cosmetically challanged. Now that I will have new cabinets and counter top it will feel like an ugly duckling. I can't believe there is not anywhere to take this to be fixed up. I could buy a new one, but I really like this one.

Anyone? Pam
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Old 04-04-2007, 10:36 PM   #20
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Pam, The stove top has a stainless steel top. The pot support peices most likely are enameled steel. The stainless steel can not be chrome plated as the rust pits would make an attrocious mess. It could be painted, yet would not look right.
I understand you like your unit. You very possibly could buy a stainless top from a recycler- Colaws comes to mid as well as others. Either trailer life or motorhome magizine had an article within the last two years listing several trailer bone yards. If you find the top, it would be an easy 15 minute swap.
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Old 04-05-2007, 12:13 AM   #21
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stainless is non-magnetic. so as to say if your frig magnet won't stick to your cook top then it's probably stainless or titanium, magnesium.The cover on my stove looks stainless but will hold a magnet. I don't know what it is but it had small rust spots on it, I removed them with navel jelly and 400 grit sandpaper.
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Old 04-05-2007, 07:16 AM   #22
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Stainless steel is an alloy made from steel and nickel. The quality depends on the percentage of nickel. The lower the nickel content, the lower the quality, and the higher the magnetic capability. The tops are of a very low grade stainless, which improved as the Magic Chef productions got newer.

That is true today as well with low quality stainless, including some cheapo fasteners.
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Old 04-05-2007, 09:33 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelbird312
Stainless steel is an alloy made from steel and nickel. The quality depends on the percentage of nickel. The lower the nickel content, the lower the quality, and the higher the magnetic capability. The tops are of a very low grade stainless, which improved as the Magic Chef productions got newer.

That is true today as well with low quality stainless, including some cheapo fasteners.
so...either way, if the top is *stainless*...low or high nickel content...the pits should sand out??
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Old 04-05-2007, 10:25 AM   #24
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PO had painted our stove top to cover the pits and corrosion, which were way beyond sanding after stripping the paint. I tried. A solution that satisfied me and is virtually un-noticible unless you are looking for the "Magic Chef" emblem was to veneer a new sheet of stainless just shy of the original top measurement. It was attached with 5 minute epoxy. The hole to lift it was marked by placing the sheet UNDER the cover and marking it for exact fit prior to drilling/cutting the new hole. Finishing of the hole with a dremel and then round an flat files to smooth the edges was the hardest part of the whole job. The veneer will fit nicely and will not affect the hinge operation if cut to fit just inside the the lips of the cover from underneath. It also allows you to align it when the epoxy is applied by lining the top up with the existing finger hole for opening. Total cost was about 3 bucks for the epoxy (still a lot left) and about $25 for the veneer. Time envolved about 1 hour and results are that the curbside kitchen cover on the Overlander, and the first thing you see when you enter makes the whole kitchen look good. Hint if you try this: Make sure the "grain" of the new veneer runs the same direction as the old top.
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Old 04-05-2007, 11:15 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank A
PO had painted our stove top to cover the pits and corrosion, which were way beyond sanding after stripping the paint. I tried. A solution that satisfied me and is virtually un-noticible unless you are looking for the "Magic Chef" emblem was to veneer a new sheet of stainless just shy of the original top measurement. It was attached with 5 minute epoxy. The hole to lift it was marked by placing the sheet UNDER the cover and marking it for exact fit prior to drilling/cutting the new hole. Finishing of the hole with a dremel and then round an flat files to smooth the edges was the hardest part of the whole job. The veneer will fit nicely and will not affect the hinge operation if cut to fit just inside the the lips of the cover from underneath. It also allows you to align it when the epoxy is applied by lining the top up with the existing finger hole for opening. Total cost was about 3 bucks for the epoxy (still a lot left) and about $25 for the veneer. Time envolved about 1 hour and results are that the curbside kitchen cover on the Overlander, and the first thing you see when you enter makes the whole kitchen look good. Hint if you try this: Make sure the "grain" of the new veneer runs the same direction as the old top.
I like this idea! I am sorry to be so full of questions, but where did you buy the stainless veneer? Pam
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Old 04-05-2007, 11:51 AM   #26
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Pam, Interesting question, it took me a while. Find a sheet metal shop in your area and they will probably have "scrap" pieces stored or around the shear from other jobs. The first one I went to didn't want to fool with the small job and the second one stopped what they were doing and accommodated me right then. I don't have pics of it, but will try and take some for you, but it will be next week. Not sure of the gauge, but the veneer is thinner than the original cover and being that thin there doesn't even appear to be any difference in the height of the cover when it is closed and added virtually no extra weight to the cover.
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Old 04-05-2007, 04:34 PM   #27
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Chuck,
The pits will eventually sand out HOWEVER, depending on their depth and severity, it might not be prudent!
Rust can be removed with several agents, however, the pits will be there unless mechanically removed.
I like the veneer idea. The only thing of concern to me would be the method of bonding the two. Personally, and that is NOT meant to say the glue is wrong, but if I were doing one for myself, I would look seriously at the veneering using STAINLESS rivets to join the two along with a high heat resistant bonding agent to prevent rattles.
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Old 04-05-2007, 05:10 PM   #28
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I don't think you could veneer the stove top itself, which is what I'm talking about. its not flat. the burner pans are formed into the metal...."pressed", I would imagine.
the folding cover looks like a different material, to me, but again, I'm no expert. not sure if that is actually "stainless", or some other kind of shiny metal. haven't done the magnet test to it.
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