For adding a convection/microwave. Can I use wiring

[WILDRTEXAS]

that was connected to the old oven OR can I use the plug behind the refridgerator OR the plu that the invertor plugs into? HELP.....oh yes, did I say I dont want to run another breaker??

[vswingfield]

I just replaced the (nonoriginal) microwave in my Excella with a Sharp Grill 2 Convection Microwave. I just plug into the original microwave plug. Works great. I cooked frozen pizza using the preprogrammed pizza mode for supper this evening.

Since it is on the same breaker as the AC (it has the switch under the cabinets over the stove & sink to select either the microwave or the AC), it is on the most heavy duty circuit in the trailer besides the main power. What more could you ask for?

[Ganglin]

How many watts is the convection/microwave.

[fr8tshaker]

Originally Posted by Ganglin

How many watts is the convection/microwave.

The Sharp is 900 watts

'shaker

[vswingfield]

Originally Posted by fr8tshaker

The Sharp is 900 watts

'shaker

Right, 900 Microwave, 1,500 Convection.

Still doesn't answer what WILDRTEXAS is considering, though.

I got my Sharp Grill 2 after seeing 'shaker's. She's had one for quite a while. I'm just starting to explore mine. This is one appliance where the manual is a good thing to have.

[wolverine]

We replaced our standard Dometic with a Sharp Grill 2 Convection oven two years ago using the same wiring in place in our Classic. It has worked fine for the past two years with no problems except that you cannot run at the same time as the air conditioner--quickly overloads the total circuits. Run one at a time and you will have no problems. This is a great upgrade and will give you several different cooking options over a conventional microwave.

[dlb435]

You need a dedicated 15 amp outlet just for the oven. The trailer is wired for a 30 amp supply. The AC unit draws 15 amps. This means that you can run the AC and the microwave and nothing else. Mostly, you will want lights, fans and other items. That means that you will need to shut off the AC to be able to use the convection oven or you may trip the 30 amp supply breaker to the trailer. We have a Safari Sport with this set up. It's not as much trouble as it sounds.

[WILDRTEXAS]

Should I stay within a certian wattage? I have NOT purchased the unit yet.
I want to build it into a new cabinet and not on the counter, any suggestions??
This is the wiring I have to possibly use. Wiring for the old surburban furnace-NTAA, wiring for the old oven (not enough) I don't think. The duplex plug for the inverter or the duplex plug for the fridge.


THANKS EVERYONE!!!!

[vswingfield]

Originally Posted by WILDRTEXAS

Should I stay within a certian wattage? I have NOT purchased the unit yet.
I want to build it into a new cabinet and not on the counter, any suggestions??
This is the wiring I have to possibly use. Wiring for the old surburban furnace-NTAA, wiring for the old oven (not enough) I don't think. The duplex plug for the inverter or the duplex plug for the fridge.


THANKS EVERYONE!!!!

I think you would be happy with the Sharp Grill 2. They are used in a lot of RVs, as well as home use.

The breaker in your photo is apparently the wiring that was in all Airstreams from to the '60s and '70s. Not much more for the '80s. In the case of the Sharp Grill 2, the max draw is 1,500 watts, or the same as a plug-in electric heater. It will be fine for that, just plug it in wherever you need to. You just will not be able to run it and the AC at the same time. I can't either. I already mentioned the switch in mine. The 30 amp service is the limiting factor, and it works well almost all the time.

The Grill 2 has a build-in kit available, but I didn't choose it because it is expensive, $106.95 + $11.99 Shipping at Amazon, especially relative to the cost of the unit, $227.54 with Free Shipping at Amazon or 53.2% of the cost of the Microwave/Convection unit. Quite a bit for a few pieces of metal with louvers painted black.

The build-in kit appears to only come in black, while the Grill 2 is also available in Silver or White. The kit would not fit in the cabinet in my Excella anyway. I will use pieces of perforated metal for circulation to build mine in. fr8tshaker also told me that the one from Sharp has no hold-down straps and that she had to replace it anyway with one from Airstream. I have attached Sharp's Design Guide for Built-in Appliances from their website. The info for countertop units like the Grill 2 is on pages 16 & 17. I also included dimensions for the Grill 2 from Dimension Express - download over 31,000 appliance dimensions and appliance specification sheets, using the Guest sign-in.

[Ganglin]

I keep asking questions without an opinion but I'm looking at our wiring diagram and have one more question. What refrigerator did/do you have. The under counter model or the taller version. It makes a difference as to how the wiring was laid out.

One conclusion you are correct on - the oven circuit is a feed harness for the light only and would not support what your doing. As of now - my personal opinion - the converter line should probably be off the list also. It is originally wired on it's on line and I'm sure that was for a reason. In fact, on my unit the converter outlet plate is a single plug so nothing else could be plugged into it.

(on a side note - I have some ideas for your range vent - it would require putting together some parts but I think it may work - How do you feel about a circular stainless marine vent cover mounted on the wall?)

[WILDRTEXAS]

Gary,
I have (another problem) the taller dometic fridge.
The oven circuit...what can I use this wiring for? Another light or plug maybe? Or just cap it off? Also while Im picking your brain...the furnace and thermostat wiring...any use for me? Not replacing the furnace.
I like the idea of the stainless steel marine vent cover. Im open to puzzles
Thanks again, Cynthia

[WILDRTEXAS]

Vaughn,
Thank you for taking your time to post all your research on this thread. The links are invaluable. Im sure your helping so many people. I love the sharp oven. This is the one for me. Now, just need to get a solid plan on where to locate the oven. And since the original dometic fridge seems to be dead (not certain yet) I can get a matching fridge.
Thanks so much. Cynthia

[silverslppr]

Perhaps someone out there can help me? I have a 2006 16" Bambi and the counter space is soooo limited. There doesn't seem to be any space to place a small microwave except on the range. I was considering replacing the vent fan/light over the range with an over the counter space-saving microwave like this one: GE Profile Any suggestions or feedback would be very appreciated. Dyanna

[68 TWind]

Might check with weight. I installed a similar unit at my mom's house a couple of years ago so I am familiar with the installation. Might be a little heavy considering the stresses a trailer undergoes while on the road. Don't know about your Bambi, but I know the structures in my Trade Wind would not hold up to the load. Also, you would need a 110v outlet inside the cabinet or else plug it in each time you use it. Installing an additional outlet might be a chore.

[silverslppr]

Thank you for the feedback! We bought the 16 footer two years ago and when we wanted to add a microwave we placed our counter one in the unit. It had to be placed on the floor surrounded by cushions while in motion. Even then it migrated towards the bed area. So we started to eye the vent fan/light hood over the range and wondered about its weight. Since there is power up there for the fan and light I figure that we could borrow the leads and make an outlet for a microwave. Sound right? Also the microwave's specs tell us that it is 29lbs. Anyone have an idea of the weight over the hood over the range? If comparable, might this work?? Dyanna

[silverslppr]

Thank you for responding! The weight is my concern as well. I'm guessing that the existing overhead vent fan and light might weigh as much as a space saver microwave (29lbs), does that sound right?

[MaxAB]

I also installed a new Micro/convection oven unit - 1400 watts in the micro wave mode. I use a 2500watt inverter, they are typically not very efficient (inverters in general, that is) - so if you're boondocking, be sure your batteries are fully charged or prepare to break out your generator. The Micro/convect. units are a nice upgrade to your kitchen!