Dometic CU-434 Oven Uneven Flame Height

[trekerboy]

The problem I'm having is that the oven on my Dometic CU-434 won't stay lit when I close the oven door. When the door is open, it stays lit, but peters-out when I close the door.



When I look at the flames themselves, the ones on the right side of the burner are taller than those on the left side. I suspected that the holes in the burner were obstructed on the right side, so I cleared the holes using toothpick but still no luck.

Does anyone know what uneven flame height on a burner like this is indicative of? What's causing it?

I'm guessing if I can fix this problem, the burner will stay lit when I close the oven door (just a guess) and I can use the oven as I would normally.

Here's what the oven burner looks like when lit:

[trekerboy]

An update on this for anyone who finds this thread...

Turns out Dometic doesn't like to help customers with Propane products over the phone for fear that folks will blow themselves up, but I eventually got them to confirm that my problem was indeed the burner itself (suspected maybe the oven gas valve was not supplying enough flow, but that wasn't the case). I ordered the replacement part from dometic ($190.00 on a $800 stove!), snagged the last one in stock, and received it a few days later.

I tried a few different Dometic Service centers to see if any of them could get me an official Dometic CU-434 repair manual, but it doesn't seem one exists. Part in hand I set off to replace it on my own.

It, was, a, nightmare.

Upon removing the oven from the cabinet in the Airstream I saw that there were not screws holding this thing together, but rivets. I needed to drill-out 7-8 rivets along both sides of the top casing (outside edges of the top burners area) in order to partially remove the top (couldn't complete remove without disconnecting top burners) to access the gas value where the thermostat was connected. I disconnected the thermostat from the gas valve (lots of blood and sweat went into getting my hands in the right position to do so) and connected the thermostat from the new burner, and used screws to put the oven top back together.

Then I flipped the whole oven upside down to access the area under the oven where I could see the burner was located. Removed 4 screws holding the rear oven vent in place, then drilled out 3-4 rivets to bend back the bottom panel enough to access the burner. Detached the old burner and attempted to connect the new one to the gas line but had a lot of trouble with a locking used to secure the line to the burner. Took about 20 minutes, but I finally got the pin in place, screwed everything back in, reinstalled the stove in the airstream and viola, even flame height and an oven that doesn't shut off after being lit for a few seconds!

Parting thoughts... for an $800 stove/oven, this thing has some really "interesting" engineering decisions built into it. I can't believe they put the thing together with rivets instead of screws. I have no idea how a service center would have serviced the burner if I took it to them, but I am sure it would have cost me more for them to do the work than for me to buy a whole new oven. Really poor serviceability. Knowing what I know now about the Dometic CU-434, I probably wouldn't but it again... would look at maybe the Furrion equivalent (at half the price!) instead.



21" 2-in-1 Range Oven Stainless

[pcskier]

Wow, what a job. Thanks for updating. I remembered your earlier post.

[wulfraat]

Yikes! But good on you for tackling the challenge!

[Omnial]

So after reading your post I'm most concerned... one of the top burners will light but won't stay lit once I stop depressing the control knob. The other two top burners and the oven burner function correctly.

I'm certain it's an issue with the thermocouple.

Looking at the construction of the unit, it does not appear there is anyway to open up the top to access the thermocouple and change it.

When you were working on your unit did you see a way to open the top without:
a) removing the unit from the counter
b) NOT having to drill out rivets?

Is anyone else having the same issue?

Alex.

[mad_mechanic]

Originally Posted by Omnial

So after reading your post I'm most concerned... one of the top burners will light but won't stay lit once I stop depressing the control knob. The other two top burners and the oven burner function correctly.

I'm certain it's an issue with the thermocouple.

Looking at the construction of the unit, it does not appear there is anyway to open up the top to access the thermocouple and change it.

When you were working on your unit did you see a way to open the top without:
a) removing the unit from the counter
b) NOT having to drill out rivets?

Is anyone else having the same issue?

Alex.

Hey Alex -
Exactly the same with our oven on our GT. Front bigger burner won’t stay on after ignition. We are under warranty but as probably most of you know it’s a painful experience...
I’m also looking for help on how to open the top.

Best

Thomas

[jcwall]

Same problem here. Front burner won’t stay lit. Left rear almost as bad. Right rear works. Would prefer to fix myself. There must be a manual some place. I’m pretty sure it’s a thermocouple problem.

[Gary W]

Having an issue with only one of the three burners on the cook top. The rear two burners operate normally with a nice blue flame throughout the high to low range.
The main large burner burns ok on high but has slightly yellow flame tips. As you turn it down the yellow increases and soots the bottom of pans. Sometimes its makes a pop noise and begins to whistle but continues to operate.
Anyone found an easy way to remove the top and access the valves? I'm hoping to fine something simple.
It's under warranty but the AS dealer is a distance away. Should I find a Dometic servicing dealer for repairs or go the my AS dealer?
Thank for your input.

Gary W

[jan55255]

Hello, I'm having issues with the oven staying lit in our 2021 Classic. I called AS-JC and they said it's most likely a thermocoupler, I'll get one as soon as they have one in stock. Someone suggested that maybe try reseating the connecting nut and see if that resolves it, makes sense to try.



Well I took it out and see all the rivets. Did anyone find a manual online anywhere? I'm almost tempted to buy something else vs mess with this.


Thanks in advance.

[brad1]

Count me as another Dometic CU-434 user experiencing a problem with the center front burner. It lights, then after a minute or so, the flame height drops, the color changes to orange and there is a sort of whooshing sound emanating from the burner. I’m under warranty but on the road and having a difficult time finding an authorized dealer on the West coast with any experience or desire to deal with the problem.

Is anyone having a similar problem experiencing success in getting it fixed?

[jan55255]

I was able to talk to Domestic about my oven issue, they said it under warranty and to see if I could find an authorized service center to work with. I called the RV dealer in Thurmont MD, waste of time. They’re authorized, but won’t work on any SOB junk they don’t sell. I let Domestic know. I called the RV dealer in Gambrels MD, they will work on it and I let Domestic know. It’s going to take a few months to get in, they want the business but can’t get parts. See how it goes.

[Omnial]

Originally Posted by Omnial

So after reading your post I'm most concerned... one of the top burners will light but won't stay lit once I stop depressing the control knob. The other two top burners and the oven burner function correctly.

I'm certain it's an issue with the thermocouple.

Looking at the construction of the unit, it does not appear there is anyway to open up the top to access the thermocouple and change it.

When you were working on your unit did you see a way to open the top without:
a) removing the unit from the counter
b) NOT having to drill out rivets?

Is anyone else having the same issue?

Alex.

Above you'll see my original post. Here is an update:

I took my Globetrotter to the dealer to have them investigate/repair. They said a new thermocouple was needed and would order the part. They were also able to 'temporarily' fix the existing thermocouple somehow but said it was not a permanent fix... that worked for a day or two.

Many months later the part arrived and they sent a mobile tech to my home to install the new thermocouple. He pulled the stove out and poked around for a bit and said the unit was not serviceable and the part sent was not for this range. He placed the range back in place so I had something to use until this could be resolved.

The dealer consulted with Airstream and concluded that a range needed to replaced entirely, under warranty, thankfully.

Seven months later the range arrived at my house and the same mobile tech came out and swapped out old for new. Seems to be working fine after a 5 minute system test.

Conclusions:
1. This unit is not dependable and I would not pay money to purchase another one.
2. It is still not clear to me if it is serviceable or not, considering everything is riveted together.
3. If something fails again and I can't fix it using parts scavenged from the original range (they let me keep it) then I'll purchase something else.

[Gary W]

Our dealer called yesterday to say our CU434 was being replaced under warranty and that no parts were available. So hopefully before Christmas we should have the exact replacement range/oven installed ending a year's worth of headache.

Who would engineer and appliance that is not serviceable and unsafe? Try cooking with a pan with a long handle on those wire support baskets. Touch the metal control knobs if you are using the oven for an hours. Better use a pot holder. Hope the oven 12 volt light doesn't need replaced, get your rivet gun out as that's how it's assembled.

Doesn't the manufacturer's have to maintain a parts supply so the public does't end up with something new that is an orphan? I see on the Dometic website that the CU434 has been discontinued.

[jan55255]

I really think it's a matter of parts. The oven is made in Europe, not in the US; parts are an issue. They sell these for a variety of products being boats and RV's.

I had the same issue, I was going to drill out the rivets, check the thermocoupler and reassemble. I didn't want to open it without a spare in case the voltage on the original was off and just install a new one. I hope I have the same luck and get a new one or whatever they're installing in the AS now. Seems odd that they DC'd them and they're still being installed.

The oven is the only thing wrong with our AS, I shouldn't complain; however, we spent a lot of money on this and expect a higher bar. We never had issues with our pop-up's or two SOB TT's. Go figure, they put in a better oven and junk for the rest...