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Old 11-05-2008, 10:25 PM   #1
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1971 27' Overlander
Clarksville , Tennessee
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71' Magic Chef Oven Help!!!

I am at the final stages of getting my 1971 Airstream Overlander road ready.
While doing the oven check I hit a snag. My Airstream is equipped with the Magic Chef Code# L T931-25V-M Serial# 5811 LP or NG wall mount oven. The problem is, I cannot get the gas to light on the oven burner. I followed the minimal instructions provided in the owners manual, but not a flicker. I have turned the gas on and lit the pilot. I have also tinkered with the pilot adjustments and air shutter. I have done everything short of taking the thermostat apart. If there is anyone out there who had fixed this problem can you please send me the know how?

Thanx in advance

evol
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Old 11-05-2008, 11:06 PM   #2
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We have the same oven in our 71 Tradewind. Check the gas lines going between the range top control and the oven section. In my case, there was initially a crack in one of these lines (so that once we did get the oven lit, there was an extra flame on the outside!). Also I think there is a separate valve for the oven burner. It could be something as simple as the thermocouple though; the main oven burner doesn't get gas until the pilot light has heated the thermocouple enough to actuate the valve. You may have to wait a few minutes while the pilot is on before the main burner will come on.
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Old 11-05-2008, 11:34 PM   #3
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Not sure what range I have in mine but it does take a painfully long time to ignite the oven burner after the pilot is lit. Seems to me about 30 sec or so. Just when I'm thinking on shutting it down so I don't get a little more flame than I want it comes on just fine. Also you might check that the thermocouple is aligned with the pilot light properly. Good luck, let us know what you find out.
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Old 11-06-2008, 04:03 AM   #4
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I have a 73 with the same problem. I don't think he can get the pilot lit let alone the oven. I haven't found a cut off for the oven in line. There is one for the stove top but no oven. It may be the entire thermostat unit, I don't know. The instructions say to turn the oven to 350 degrees and that will get gas going to the pilot. Not happening. The temp dial can be pushed inward, like you would think would allow gas to get to the pilot, but nothing has worked yet. The instructions don't say anything about pushing the dial in to light.

For those with a similar oven, what is your procedure for lighting the pilot?

Thanks!
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Old 11-06-2008, 06:10 AM   #5
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Quote:
I have turned the gas on and lit the pilot.
If, as you say, the pilot light will work, with the pilot lit, wait a few minutes after turning the oven temp up. If the burner does not come on after about two minutes, you probably have a bad thermocouple.
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Old 11-07-2008, 03:44 AM   #6
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Heh, thanks SteveH. I guess i miss read his dilemma. May take a while to bake some biscuits using only the pilot.
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Old 11-07-2008, 04:31 AM   #7
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Gas to the oven is shut off by the valve located under the stove top - according to the 71/72 manuals I have. If the pilot lights - let it sit for a couple minutes then turn the oven temp. up past the little black dot on the temp. knob. The oven won't light if you only turn it up to 350 degrees. If the dot is worn off then crank it up to 475. There will be a delay. (some sort of safety feature)
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Old 11-09-2008, 01:18 AM   #8
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I tried lighting a lighter on the thermocouple line closer to the valve intake near the stove wall and could hear some noise yesterday (11/08). Today I took the copper seal cap off and tried it again. Bad idea, the burner lit but a huge flame shot out of the wall. Don't try this at home kids. I killed the gas, reattached the cap and tried it again. The stove lit, but only for a few seconds. I watched for a few minutes (at a safe distance) and it kept igniting for a few seconds then shutting off. If its a bad thermocouple, can somebody advise how to change it?
Thanx for all the responses, really appreciate it.

evolcire
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Old 11-09-2008, 01:29 AM   #9
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Dieselgrin, on my stove the cutoff is behind the faceplate on the bottom of the stove. If yours is a wall mount first pull off the control knobs, then unscrew the little screws holding the faceplate to the oven (mine has two). Fold the faceplate down, don't pull it away because the oven light switch should still be attached. the shutoff should be right there. I don't know if it is stock like this or modified by previous owner. Good Luck

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Old 11-09-2008, 07:42 AM   #10
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1973 31' Excella 500
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Here is the working in the handbook for my '73 Excella.

Oven Automatic Shut-off valve, removal and replacement
a. Shut off gas supply
b. Remove oven rack and oven bottom
c. Remove mounting screw holding sensing bulb to pilot
d. Unscrew 3/16 brass fitting attaching pilot fitting to pilot light assembly
e. Remove 1/4 screw holking sensing bulb to pilot
f. Remove sensing bulb from pilot assembly
g. Disconnect main 1/4 fuel line at automatic oven shut-off valve
h. Remove two screws attaching automatic oven shut-off valve housing
to side of oven
i. Remove automatic shut-off valve from oven housing
j. To install, reverse above procedure
k. Check for gas leaks at all connections with soap solution

Hope that helps. Diagrams are not very good. If distances are necessary for correct installation, I can give those.
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Old 11-10-2008, 07:53 PM   #11
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Evolcire, Thanks for the lead on locating the shut off behind the face plate. Mine gas line is "on," but still won't light. I looked in another string and folks said to light the stove and that might help draw the propane. Tried that with no luck. Pushing the knob in @ "off," @ 350 degrees. Just abut every combination. Next step I guess is to remove the pilot assembly and see if there is a way to clean it or replace it.
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Old 11-11-2008, 12:42 AM   #12
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Dieselgrin, I had to turn the selector switch from LP to NG. The switch needs a small flat tip screwdriver and turns counterclockwise. It is located at the 4 o'clock while looking at your temp control. I also had to shut off all other gas lines except the one leading to the stove. I did finally get my stove to ignite, but it will not stop igniting. The temperature in the stove goes to 500F no matter what I have it set at. I think if you can get yours to at least work, then you can tweak it. I am going to have to replace the thermocouple and probably more. If the price and time get to be too much, I'll just buy new. I'm not all that nostalgic, I've already upgraded most of the interior anyway.

Alumin8, Thank you for those instructions. I'll get on that as soon as I can find a replacement. I did some research and found out how the system works. I found out that different thermocouples produce a different electrical charge when heated. If your instructions tell you how many millivolts the one you have produces. I would appreciate that too.

Thanx again evolcire
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Old 11-11-2008, 06:04 PM   #13
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evolcire, I don't have the selector switch on my temp control. I did read in the magic chefs owners manual that the angle of the thermostat will cause the oven temp to run uncontrollable. I cleaned the pilot orifice while it was in the oven, but couldn't get it completely clean. I don't know how to remove the pilot yet.
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Old 11-19-2008, 04:01 PM   #14
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1972 31' Sovereign
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Wow! Thanks to reading this thread I got the Magic Chef in my $500 '72 Sovereign to work first try. But I thought it was broke, since I got the pilot on and nothings seemd to do anything to the main burner. After reading some here I decided to just turn up the temp control and sit back to see if anything happened. After nearly 5 minutes, and at the point I was giving up, the thing just came on like its name, Magic. That oven has not been lit since 1983 and it still works. The stove top worked right off. Now on to the furnace. Maybe I'll get lucky.
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