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Old 10-02-2008, 05:59 PM   #29
More than one rivet loose
 
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I just had my oven installed last fall. When I went to light the pilot a week or so ago. I flame but in the wrong place. It was behind the bracket. I took the oven "floor" out and heat spreader. I found the screws holding the pilot light guide and thermocouple loose.
Once I tightened them back up everything worked "fine". I am having AS of Spokane check things out as I head through next week.
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Old 10-02-2008, 07:29 PM   #30
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Michelle...base on what you observed, do you think that the pilot light bracket is working loose and the resulting vibration is causing the tube at the compression nut to fail? I discovered, during the first trip, that this bracket was indeed loose. I didn’t think much about it at the time, I just tighten it up.
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Old 10-04-2008, 10:09 PM   #31
More than one rivet loose
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HankandLois View Post
Michelle...base on what you observed, do you think that the pilot light bracket is working loose and the resulting vibration is causing the tube at the compression nut to fail? I discovered, during the first trip, that this bracket was indeed loose. I didnít think much about it at the time, I just tighten it up.
It is possible. I wil be stopping by AS of Spokane on Wednesday. One of the things I intend to address is the bracket.
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Old 10-09-2008, 11:16 PM   #32
More than one rivet loose
 
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Quote:
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It is possible. I wil be stopping by AS of Spokane on Wednesday. One of the things I intend to address is the bracket.
The bracket turned out to be a secondary problem. The compression nut on the back of the bracket was finger tight. It was probably looser until I tightened up the two bracket screws. That explained the flame behind the bracket.
Once again check you nuts!
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Old 10-27-2008, 11:00 AM   #33
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Another Maytag over pilot light problem

Hi all,

I also just experienced the second failure this year of the pilot light tube in my oven on a trip to Gatlingburg, TN.

I confess I'm not sure of the source of these breaks, but like you I am adverse to things going boom inside my trailer. My first trip to the Airstream dealership resulted in a fix that simply pulled the hose further through the back of the stove and having it reattached with a 3/16 collar which caused the tube to rub on the inlet hole on the back of the stove. And it didn't stop the crimp collar from breaking again. The nut was tightened so much that I have to use a vice and a wrench to remove it.

I repaired my stove using a length of 3/16" copper pipe. I was concerned about the entire length of this hose which exits the back of the oven, move up the back, and enters the stove top again at the burner control level just below the burner lid itself.

I am attaching pictures for those who want to know what the back of the stove looks like. You will have to remove it by extracting the six screws that hold the stove to the cabinet. Then remove the main gas line at the top of the stove.

Here are some pictures:
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Old 03-01-2009, 09:55 AM   #34
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Thanks for the photos. I was able to fix my oven without any problems once I figured out how to get the pan above the burner out of the oven (push in and up). Total cost for parts from the local hardware store was about $6. I used 3/16" copper tubing. I checked for leaks and the pilot and burner seem to work fine.

George
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Old 03-24-2009, 09:24 PM   #35
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Just pulled out my oven this evening....took a total of about 5 minutes to get er out. Of course, in areas the customer would not normally see, it was again hammer time behind the oven. Junk everywhere, loose things everywhere, very sloppy craftsmanship, etc...so I suppose the flame thrower oven was not such a bad thing as it gave me a reason to go behind and clean up, tighten up and fix up after the Airstream construction crew.
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Old 03-25-2009, 07:42 PM   #36
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Ok, removal of the oven was a snap. First, make sure all gas valves on the LP tanks are closed and that all pressure in the line is evacuated.

Then, with an open ended wrench to disconnect the LP supply line from the oven, and 4 phillips screws on the top (two per side) hold the oven in place.

Carefully slid oven out and took home after I protected the LP feed line by placing a plastic baggie over the feed pipe so that debris would not get into the line.

Have to set the oven on something to raise it up because you will need to open the oven door.

Looking at the guts, there are a total of 3 fasteners and one spring loaded fastener....two for the pilot light assembly, one for the bracket holding the burner in place and a spring type device holding the thermocouple in place.

Remove screw on left hand side holding bracket in place. Once loose, you have some flexibility in finding the spring device that holds the thermocouple in place....move spring type device and simply slide out thermocouple. Once free, you can take out the whole burner assembly as it slides right out with very little finessing. Remove pilot light assembly with phillips screw and nut driver (I believe it's 9mm).

Now I noticed that my oven sounds like a 747 when in use, so I cleaned it and also adjusted the air/fuel slide a bit. This of course will be trial and error until I find the sweet spot where it won't sound like a 747. For those familiar with your water heater, it's the similar type of slide adjustment.

So, clean inside, close oven door and turn around over. On the back there are 2 clamps that hold the oven and pilot feeds in place that are held with screws. Remove screws, pop off clamps.

Now, on top, the facing front with the back of the oven to you, remove the left hand pipe (which is the smaller of the two pipes) connected to the oven control valve by taking an open end wrench (I believe it was 7/16) and turn counter clockwise. Then, when free, remove carefully the pilot light pipe assembly. Take some tape and cover the hole where the line was connected to the valve. This will prevent debris from entering the valve so that when you reconnect, junk does not cause a blockage and force you to start over.

Now the fun part, I have to go to the hardware store and get some copper pipe, compression fittings, etc. So keep an eye out for part two and perhaps some pics at that time.

I can say now that I have the burner and pilot out that this was clearly not a well put together device. There are stress marks all over the pipe connecting to the pilot light assembly. This and the fact that the pipe seemed just slightly too short and was really torqued down hard most likely cause the pipe to simply break.

I would caution users of this Maytag/Amana/Magic Chef oven that the factory installed on many new(er) trailers be careful and keep an eye on the feed line to the pilot light. I had lit mine last July and flames flew out of the oven. Of course like many, you are crouched down looking in to make sure you find the right place when lighting, doing this, if the pipe breaks will lead to singed hair, eyebrows, etc....and if you're lucky, that's all that will happen.
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Old 05-17-2009, 06:19 PM   #37
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Special thanks to George and SilverWings for their help in answering questions on this.

I went around and around trying first to find 3/16 copper tubing. Finally found it online....then looked high and low for compression fittings for both ends. Finally some guy at a hardware store said to me, you know around here you won't find that kind of stuff in a hardware store, I would suggest an autoparts store since the size is typically used in the auto industry.

So, off to NAPA I went and sure enough they had the parts you see here on this thread. Measured the length of the broken alum tubing 3 times, cut the copper tubing once, attached tightened and tested. All good. While in there, I adjusted the burner so it wouldn't sound like a 747 when in use. Here are some pics of the installed parts:
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Old 05-18-2009, 06:53 AM   #38
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Dutch ovens are a FINE substitute for a gas or electric oven, and no parts to go bad.
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Old 09-15-2009, 11:10 AM   #39
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I am SO glad to find this thread. Seems like I can always find answers on this forum. We just purchased a 2000 Classic - seldom used & always garaged. The fresh water tank has never had a drop of water in it (they used campground hook-ups only) and the oven & stovetop had also never been used. We picked it up Tuesday & headed for the Davis Mountains. My Arkie hubby decided he'd like to have fried potatoes & cornbread the next night. So, I told him to light the oven (that part was just like our '92 A/S) - but nothing happened. So, being the more agile of the 2 of us, I laid down on the floor to see what was (or wasn't) going on & when he clicked the butane lighter, flames literally shot out of the thing. Lifting up the floor of the oven, you could see a line that went nowhere; that's where the flamethrower was. The potentially bad part was that I'm on supplemental oxygen, which normally is no problem. However, under this circumstance, could have had catastrophic consequences. This oven happens to be Maytag, but from what I've read here, that & Amana are manufactured by the same company. Husband intends to contact both A/S & Maytag/Amana this afternoon. Although I'm sure they won't remedy the situation, if they get enough negative feedback, maybe they'll realize their potential liability on this issue and do something about it in the future. (But I won't hold my breath.)
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