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Old 10-09-2011, 07:54 PM   #15
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Interesting info concerning the electronics: Dometic Electronic System (second generation)

Still need more info on troubleshooting if anybody has a link.

Jim
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:00 PM   #16
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S'more interesting stuff: Cooling Unit Diagnosis

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Old 10-09-2011, 08:45 PM   #17
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Excellent post by NickCrowhurst concerning the proper way to test your thermister: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...html#post21349

Wish I had found this post before spending the buck$ on a new one.

I might also add that Nick typically posts superb information on these forums, regardless the topic. He's not around much any longer and I miss his wisdom very much.

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Old 10-09-2011, 09:46 PM   #18
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I think that boards are around $100, so you have to ask yourself, "Kid, do you feel lucky?"

Sometimes just cleaning and tightening the contacts made to/on the board can clear up problems...
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Old 10-09-2011, 10:12 PM   #19
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.....Sometimes just cleaning and tightening the contacts made to/on the board can clear up problems...
I thought about that. Waiting for some daylight to attack that part of it. Some of these Dometics have really clear manuals available online so that one can trace things correctly, not really this one, tho. Judging by the look of things on that board/plugged into that board, it may have been replaced at some point. Weather permitting, I'll slog thru that tomorrow. Rain is on the way.

Thanks for the tip.

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Old 10-10-2011, 07:46 AM   #20
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I must have Jinxed Ya, sorry, but it's still a "C" note or better.
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Old 10-10-2011, 06:06 PM   #21
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I must have Jinxed Ya, sorry, but it's still a "C" note or better.
No worries. Since we've more or less proved the thermister works and the cooling unit works, that pretty much leaves only the circuit board. I'm gong to call the Dinosaur folks tomorrow and speak to them about it. It hasn't rained here in weeks, but now it looks like a couple of days of precip, so I can't fiddle with it too much for a while. I may just order the board anyway.

Dang, big trip scheduled for next weekend. May be coolers again.

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Old 10-19-2011, 09:07 PM   #22
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Figured it out

It's all about airflow. But first, there is very good information in these two threads, many, many thanks to all who contributed here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...gas-78650.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...-up-80870.html

And on this website:

Index of Troubleshooting Pages

Linked parts of that site earlier in this thread.
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:20 PM   #23
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A couple of posts back I had eliminated the thermister issue and the heating coils. I was obsessing over the main circuit board. Finally had some time over the weekend to get back there and spend some time poking around at it.

Shut the power down, ac and dc. I left the ground connected to the board to help with static issues. First thing that stands out is the mud dauber's nest on the board. Very carefully cleaned those off the microchips with some alcohol, toothpicks and q-tips. Checked all the connections to the board and surrounding items on the back of the fridge. All looked good. SO I fired the thing back up on electric. For grins, I left the outside hatch off the camper to keep an eye on things since I had been poking and prodding on the wires and electronics. Within a couple of hours, the freezer was at about 30 degrees and the fridge was starting to cool down. As the day went on, the fridge kept getting cooler and cooler. It now seemed to be working normally. Shut it all down and put it all back together and let it sit overnight. My thinking here is that there must have been a loose connection or possibly the bees??

Next day I fired it up again and we're back to square one. NOT cooling right again.
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:27 PM   #24
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Still could be a cold solder joint on the board. A can of "Freezit" and a good hot solder gun could help, but that is slow work unless you know something about where that kind of fault could be.

I would start where the DC power is supplied to the board, and just try resoldering a few connections. I haven't seen one of those boards up close, but how many connections points does it have...?

If you have a magnifying glass, try that to look at the solder points up close. Often, a bad solder joint will show hints that is isn't good. Also, with NO power to the board AT ALL, poke around with a VTVM to see if current is passing through solder points.

In the end, you may just want to buy a new board. What's your time worth? All I hear about them is do not buy the original mfgr boards, there's (I think) a make that's like "gator" that's supposed to be "The One" to have.

What is good to hear is that the mechanical part of it sounds like it's working A-OK! That's a Big Thing, in my mind...
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:32 PM   #25
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So I hit the forums again and found the two threads listed just above. Ran across a bunch of posts about airflow and it finally hit me. The hatch being removed from the side of the camper was allowing more air to flow across the back of the coils on the fridge, cooling those coils down and in turn bringing down the internal temp in the fridge. I repeated this test again tonight. After about 5 hours, the fridge is now at 43 and the freezer is at about zero.

One contributing factor here is that the cabinet around the fridge is not built correctly (I know 'cause I built it, and built it wrong ). The shelf over the top of the fridge and the "scoop" used to vent the heat off the back of the fridge thru the roof of the camper are not installed correctly. I know this because I installed them incorrectly.

So, I guess I'll correct the cabinet issues and move on from there. May need to add a small fan to help move the air over the coils more efficiently.

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Old 10-19-2011, 09:42 PM   #26
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Aage, the board you are thinking of is made by Dinosaur. I talked to them one day last week. They gave me a couple of minor things to look at that seemed fine, but overall weren't too helpful in trouble-shooting the board itself. I couldn't really find a way to properly test the board (meaning outputs, chip functionally and so on).The consensus around the internet seems to be that their boards are far superior to the OEM. They certainly have a better warranty.

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Old 10-19-2011, 10:42 PM   #27
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So, I guess I'll correct the cabinet issues and move on from there. May need to add a small fan to help move the air over the coils more efficiently.

Jim
There ya go, Jim! (Or Susan!?) Sounds like just the ticket. Several folks have also installed those quieter "muffin" fans from computers into the airflow behind the refer for just that reason.

There was also another thread about reducing the air space by putting baffles in that were designed to encourage vertical airflow, again to increase cooling.

Seems that AS didn't talk to Dometic much about how to build an optimum cabinet for the refer....
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:18 PM   #28
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I gave up trying to get the fridge to cool. I replaced the coils in 2004, Dino board 2005, jet and flame sensor thingy, too. It worked great until two years ago and has been getting worse (higher temps) ever since. Tried the fan on a warm day and freezer temp went UP to +10 from +2, fridge up to +52 from +48. At night it cools down a bit but I just decided I'd spent way too much time futzing around with it. My wife gave me the okay to buy new.
Phone call to BigdiscountRV.com folks and am having one shipped w/no tax from Illinois for a total cost of $1118 including shipping cost of $150 via truck.
Old unit? Will put it up for sale (cheap) or part it out to recoup some of cost of things like the Dino board, etc. Old: RM 3604 New: RM 2620 exact replacement.

Next week with new fridge it's off to the Sierras near Bishop, CA and Lone Pine to gaze upward at Mt. Whitney for awhile.
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