Uh OHHH the fridge isn't getting cold

[arcamedies]

After I bought the twink I checked everything and found the original fridge cooled very nicely on both gas and elec. so a camping we went. I used it for 2 1/2 weeks in Florida in February and several weekend (6) trips, so far no problem. cooool

Thursday I cranked it up to get ready to leave Friday and the freezer was icy with the trays frozen nicely, buttttt after driving 3 1/2 hours to PA I checked it and the lower box was at 61 degrees. After 2 hours at the campground I switched it to 120 V elec at level 6 and it went down to 52 in a few hours and down to 32 by the next morning and worked fine all weekend on level 5 (36 degrees)

I switched back to LP gas when leaving Sunday morning and by the time I got home (3 1/2 hours) the fridge portion was dripping and defrosting. Ice was still nice and frozen.

HELP !!! pretty please.

[DaveFL]

When you switch it over to gas, do you hear the flame light when standing outside with ear close to camper? If you can't hear it, open access panel and see if you can actually see a flame, or shoot it with an ir thermometer.

[lewster]

arc,

You could have 2 problems......if you are getting good cooling on AC and not on LP.

* your LP burner might be clogged or dirty and is not producing a nice bright blue flame (it needs to be removed and cleaned) or you could have a problem with the LP delivery system from the gas valve forward to the burner (things like spiders or other insects).

* if you ARE getting a nice strong flame, your spiral baffle might be rusted, damaged or partially corroded. This is a small twisted piece of flat metal that hangs about 6-8" above the LP burner and is responsible for creating required turbulence within the boiler tube to allow your ammonia solution to heat properly. The fridge will NOT WORK PROPERLY on LP without this device in tact!

The only problem is that you have to remove the fridge to access it unless you have a roof vent. You can sometimes get to the spiral baffle (it is suspended in the flue tube by a long piece of wire) by removing the roof vent for the refer and lifting the cover over the flue.

Hope this helps!

[arcamedies]

The flame is burning but I think weakly, has a prism inside to look at it and it looks weaker than before. I'd like to service the fridge but can't see how to get to the flue, it's 35 years old and unless I'm missing something (could be) can't slide the fridge out to get to it. Anybody slide one out in an Argosy 76?

[lewster]

Sounds like you need to service the LP side if you have a weak flame. Turn off your LP tanks and remove the LP feed tube that runs between the gas valve and the burner (be sure to use a back-up wrench when you loosen it).

Now remove the burner from the boiler tube (should be held in by one screw on the left side of the casing).

Carefully slide the tube with the burner out of the fridge. I bet you have some build-up in the tube or have a partially blocked LP orifice (that is the tiny hole at the beginning of the supply tube, just upstream of the air inlet).

Using carb cleaner or compressed air ONLY and be sure that you don't put anything other than air or carb cleaner thru the LP orifice! Blow out all of the tubing and burner. Use a wire brush if there is any rust on the burner head.

Replace when clean. You should have a nice strong bright blue flame now !

[SpaceEgg]

are you sure your propane tank isn't running low?

[arcamedies]

Originally Posted by SpaceEgg

are you sure your propane tank isn't running low?

both tanks are full and have auto switchover, just refilled empty one.

[arcamedies]

Originally Posted by DaveFL

When you switch it over to gas, do you hear the flame light when standing outside with ear close to camper? If you can't hear it, open access panel and see if you can actually see a flame, or shoot it with an ir thermometer.

I can see what seems a weaker flame making me think something is blocking the burner but being an older fridge in a trailer I can't see a simple way to get to the flue for cleaning as recommended in the 1976 manual.

[arcamedies]

[QUOTE=lewster;865327]

Now remove the burner from the boiler tube (should be held in by one screw on the left side of the casing).

Carefully slide the tube with the burner out of the fridge. I bet you have some build-up in the tube or have a partially blocked LP orifice (that is the tiny hole at the beginning of the supply tube, just upstream of the air inlet).

EHHHH tight fit to work on here.

[pickerdd]

Originally Posted by lewster

Sounds like you need to service the LP side if you have a weak flame. Turn off your LP tanks and remove the LP feed tube that runs between the gas valve and the burner (be sure to use a back-up wrench when you loosen it).

Now remove the burner from the boiler tube (should be held in by one screw on the left side of the casing).

Carefully slide the tube with the burner out of the fridge. I bet you have some build-up in the tube or have a partially blocked LP orifice (that is the tiny hole at the beginning of the supply tube, just upstream of the air inlet).

Using carb cleaner or compressed air ONLY and be sure that you don't put anything other than air or carb cleaner thru the LP orifice! Blow out all of the tubing and burner. Use a wire brush if there is any rust on the burner head.

Replace when clean. You should have a nice strong bright blue flame now !

Sorry for jumping in here, but I have a similar issue with the fridge in our '71 Safari. Works great on electric, but not on gas. I cleaned the burner and tubing, but I'm still getting a low flame. At least it stays on, whereas it wouldn't stay lit previous to cleaning. Anyway, I see 3 screws on the various parts of the thermostat assembly. I assume they are there for a reason and are set in a particular manner. Do any of these screws set the air/fuel mixture or any other important aspects of the mixture that would cause the problem we're experiencing?

Thanks for all your assistance!!