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03-28-2007, 01:50 PM
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#21
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Currently Looking...
Denton
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 789
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Hopefully you will have a close place to import 12 volt from as the RM 2820 Needs 12volt. The most important thing,as Wahoonc pointed out, is that you do seal the unit so that you do not have Carbon Monoxide get in the trailer, even if you have to sacrifice appearance.
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03-28-2007, 03:28 PM
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#22
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4 Rivet Member
1990 34' Excella
Windcrest
, Texas
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 248
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We have 12 vdc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan4odm
Hopefully you will have a close place to import 12 volt from as the RM 2820 Needs 12volt. The most important thing,as Wahoonc pointed out, is that you do seal the unit so that you do not have Carbon Monoxide get in the trailer, even if you have to sacrifice appearance.
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This is a replacement fridge so there is already a drain, 12vdc and propane line. It just seems odd that there is not a 'smoke stack' like I envisioned. From the installation manual it looks like the lower vent (which we have) serves to creates a draft that goes out the the upper vent. No 'smokestack.'
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03-28-2007, 03:43 PM
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#23
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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Swanny,
Sounds like you got it. The lower vent brings in the air, makes a draft and runs it out the top.
The things we were talking about here was just to make sure you isolate the rear of the fridge from the living area. My fridge came with a 1/2 lip all the way around with a foam gasket. It was meant to have an opening just big enough for the fridge to slide into and form a seal.
The manual shows if the top of the fridge has an opening to the back of more than 1", it needs to be blocked off because the heated air will circuilate around the top of the fridge and make it less efficient.
If the fridge stand away from the wall, some people add aluminum baffles to direct the air over the coils on the fridge.
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03-28-2007, 07:08 PM
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#24
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Rivet Master
1985 34.5' Airstream 345
Tujunga
, California
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by borostreamer
Any one have tips on getting my old rm 100 out? I've removed every screw I can find, and the fridge will not move. I' ve tried a pry bar to no avail.
Any suggestions? Help?
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Scott:
I just removed the Dometic 1303 from my 345 today, and found 6 "extra screws". The shop manual mentions the 6 that are in the front and covered with rubber caps. When it wouldn't move I found 6 more in the cabinet above the frig that came down into the top of it. Check your cabinets above and below. Ron
__________________
Ron and Debbie Lawrence
1985 345 Motorhome...... delightfully tacky......yet unrefined
AIR 7992
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03-29-2007, 10:35 AM
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#25
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4 Rivet Member
1990 34' Excella
Windcrest
, Texas
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Swanny,
The manual shows if the top of the fridge has an opening to the back of more than 1", it needs to be blocked off because the heated air will circuilate around the top of the fridge and make it less efficient.
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I think this means there is more than 1" from the top of the fridge to the upper edge of the enclosure. If so what do you block off this area with?
Would it be something as simple as a foam pad?
Thanks---Mitch
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03-29-2007, 11:13 AM
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#26
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swanny
I think this means there is more than 1" from the top of the fridge to the upper edge of the enclosure. If so what do you block off this area with?
Would it be something as simple as a foam pad?
Thanks---Mitch
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I used a block of wood.
It just depends on your configuration. On my last trailer that had an abs chimney running up the wall. There was an aluminum baffle installed at the top of the fridge and run up to just inside the chimney.
Your really just trying to keep the air running up to the roof or side upper vent without any place else to go. Clear easy path.
It does get hot back there, so you would not want anything that would melt or be flammable.
Here is the manual for your fridge.
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03-29-2007, 01:00 PM
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#27
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
.
, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swanny
Would it be something as simple as a foam pad?
Thanks---Mitch
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I put in a piece of compressed foam insulation on top of ours, it seems to help a lot.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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03-30-2007, 07:44 AM
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#28
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4 Rivet Member
1990 34' Excella
Windcrest
, Texas
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 248
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Great tips!
Thanks everyone.
This helps clarify what the instruction manual is talking about.
During installation is it a problem to tip the fridge? By tipping I mean haviing to really lean it one way or another to get it into the AS. Just want to make sure I don't damage anything by doing something wrong.
Mitch
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03-30-2007, 07:49 AM
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#29
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Rivet Master
1985 34.5' Airstream 345
Tujunga
, California
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,969
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In speaking with our local airstream dealer, he said if you have it on its side for a while do not start it up until it has been upright for 2 hours.
__________________
Ron and Debbie Lawrence
1985 345 Motorhome...... delightfully tacky......yet unrefined
AIR 7992
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03-30-2007, 06:54 PM
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#30
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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One More Thing..............
.........about the fridge position. The Dometic Tech Notes always say to 'tilt' the unit BEFORE installing it into the wall. The process involves tipping it from it's upright position thru all 4 sides.
Basically, tip it to one side for 3 minutes, then the opposite side, then front and finally back.
This procedure enhances the 'mix' of the coolant materials and provides better operation.
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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03-31-2007, 12:11 AM
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#31
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3 Rivet Member
1974 25' Tradewind
Lake Oswego
, Oregon
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
.........about the fridge position. The Dometic Tech Notes always say to 'tilt' the unit BEFORE installing it into the wall. The process involves tipping it from it's upright position thru all 4 sides.
Basically, tip it to one side for 3 minutes, then the opposite side, then front and finally back.
This procedure enhances the 'mix' of the coolant materials and provides better operation.
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Lew, should I do this to my old Dometic before replacing it into the newly remodled cabinets? Thanks, Pam
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03-31-2007, 06:28 AM
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#32
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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I do it whenever I have a unit removed for service. Just takes a few minutes and won't hurt anything.
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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04-01-2007, 06:53 PM
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#33
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4 Rivet Member
1990 34' Excella
Windcrest
, Texas
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 248
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Update
Well...I've removed the old fridge (a 110 only setup) and put in the RM 2820. Wow...I had to remove doors, drawers, door handles, etc to get this through the kitchen.
The unit is now in the space, which I resealed yesterday. SHould have everything up and running in the next week. The next step is to begin the carpentry that goes above the fridge. I've also got to create a baffle near the back to help route the exhause to the vent.
Does anyone have a photo of what their routing configuration? In my 1975 it was built into the wall.
Mitch
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04-03-2007, 10:19 AM
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#34
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Rivet Master
1985 34.5' Airstream 345
Tujunga
, California
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,969
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thermal mastic?
We are replacing the cooling unit and the directions say to use thermal mastic to stick the "fins" on the new unit. I have called and visited several places and no one knows what I am talking about. Any ideas on where to get it?
__________________
Ron and Debbie Lawrence
1985 345 Motorhome...... delightfully tacky......yet unrefined
AIR 7992
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04-04-2007, 02:24 PM
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#35
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Rivet Master
1985 34.5' Airstream 345
Tujunga
, California
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,969
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never mind!
turns out the guy we got the cooling unit from sent us a tube, we just had not gotten to the bottom of the box.
__________________
Ron and Debbie Lawrence
1985 345 Motorhome...... delightfully tacky......yet unrefined
AIR 7992
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