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Old 03-19-2007, 07:31 PM   #15
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Tim,

Many of the install manuals show a baffle placed at the top of the fridge to direct the hot air out the upper vent and keep it away from circulating above the fridge. You got it right!
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Old 03-20-2007, 08:25 AM   #16
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Where to get it

Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim

I had to build a bulkhead wall to enclose the fridge. I used butyl tape on the back of the wall edge before I secured it in place.
Is butyl tape something I can pick up at Home Depot or Lowes?
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Old 03-20-2007, 10:50 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swanny
Is butyl tape something I can pick up at Home Depot or Lowes?
I had better luck with Ace Hardware. They may call it putty tape or mobile home tape. It was near all the caulking tubes.
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:19 PM   #18
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Any one have tips on getting my old rm 100 out? I've removed every screw I can find, and the fridge will not move. I' ve tried a pry bar to no avail.
Any suggestions? Help?
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Old 03-22-2007, 10:26 PM   #19
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I am reading this and I am feeling some anger. Anger at the installer we paid big bucks to put our new fridge in for us. The top of the fridge cabinet in our '77 Overlander gets quite warm. In fact the side cabinet gets quite warm as well. We now have to leave the side and top cabinets open to dissipate the heat that is building up.
I am guessing that we have a bad sealing issue and that I am going to have to pull the fridge and seal the entire thing.
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Old 03-28-2007, 01:48 PM   #20
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RM 2820 Install

In the install manual there is no reference to any baffles. It simply says, "Center the coils below the roof vent."

Is this accurate? I was thinking there should be a pipe from the back of the fridge to the roof but when I looked on the back of the fridge there is no exhaust pipe that looks like it should be hooked to anything.

Any tips?
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Old 03-28-2007, 02:50 PM   #21
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Hopefully you will have a close place to import 12 volt from as the RM 2820 Needs 12volt. The most important thing,as Wahoonc pointed out, is that you do seal the unit so that you do not have Carbon Monoxide get in the trailer, even if you have to sacrifice appearance.
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Old 03-28-2007, 04:28 PM   #22
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We have 12 vdc

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan4odm
Hopefully you will have a close place to import 12 volt from as the RM 2820 Needs 12volt. The most important thing,as Wahoonc pointed out, is that you do seal the unit so that you do not have Carbon Monoxide get in the trailer, even if you have to sacrifice appearance.
This is a replacement fridge so there is already a drain, 12vdc and propane line. It just seems odd that there is not a 'smoke stack' like I envisioned. From the installation manual it looks like the lower vent (which we have) serves to creates a draft that goes out the the upper vent. No 'smokestack.'
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Old 03-28-2007, 04:43 PM   #23
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Swanny,

Sounds like you got it. The lower vent brings in the air, makes a draft and runs it out the top.

The things we were talking about here was just to make sure you isolate the rear of the fridge from the living area. My fridge came with a 1/2 lip all the way around with a foam gasket. It was meant to have an opening just big enough for the fridge to slide into and form a seal.

The manual shows if the top of the fridge has an opening to the back of more than 1", it needs to be blocked off because the heated air will circuilate around the top of the fridge and make it less efficient.

If the fridge stand away from the wall, some people add aluminum baffles to direct the air over the coils on the fridge.
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Old 03-28-2007, 08:08 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by borostreamer
Any one have tips on getting my old rm 100 out? I've removed every screw I can find, and the fridge will not move. I' ve tried a pry bar to no avail.
Any suggestions? Help?
Scott:
I just removed the Dometic 1303 from my 345 today, and found 6 "extra screws". The shop manual mentions the 6 that are in the front and covered with rubber caps. When it wouldn't move I found 6 more in the cabinet above the frig that came down into the top of it. Check your cabinets above and below. Ron
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Old 03-29-2007, 11:35 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Swanny,

The manual shows if the top of the fridge has an opening to the back of more than 1", it needs to be blocked off because the heated air will circuilate around the top of the fridge and make it less efficient.
I think this means there is more than 1" from the top of the fridge to the upper edge of the enclosure. If so what do you block off this area with?

Would it be something as simple as a foam pad?

Thanks---Mitch
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Old 03-29-2007, 12:13 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swanny
I think this means there is more than 1" from the top of the fridge to the upper edge of the enclosure. If so what do you block off this area with?

Would it be something as simple as a foam pad?

Thanks---Mitch
I used a block of wood.

It just depends on your configuration. On my last trailer that had an abs chimney running up the wall. There was an aluminum baffle installed at the top of the fridge and run up to just inside the chimney.

Your really just trying to keep the air running up to the roof or side upper vent without any place else to go. Clear easy path.

It does get hot back there, so you would not want anything that would melt or be flammable.

Here is the manual for your fridge.
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Old 03-29-2007, 02:00 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Would it be something as simple as a foam pad?

Thanks---Mitch
I put in a piece of compressed foam insulation on top of ours, it seems to help a lot.
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Old 03-30-2007, 08:44 AM   #28
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Great tips!

Thanks everyone.

This helps clarify what the instruction manual is talking about.

During installation is it a problem to tip the fridge? By tipping I mean haviing to really lean it one way or another to get it into the AS. Just want to make sure I don't damage anything by doing something wrong.

Mitch
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