Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-31-2004, 01:35 PM   #1
3 Rivet Member
 
pamelake's Avatar
 
1974 25' Tradewind
Lake Oswego , Oregon
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 218
Testing a used Dometic fridge

I am replacing my original Dometic fridge in my 74 Tradewind with a used Dometic fridge of undetermined age. I was told by the seller that it works, but want to test it before installing. Here is the deal. The new one requires a DC plug in. My trailer is currently without batteries. This is my plan. Please someone tell me if this make sense. There are two wires coming out of the back of the fridge that require DC. I will wire a cigarette lighter plug in to these wires. Then I plug the cigarette lighter into a to a DC to AC converter and plug this into AC. Then I plug in the regular AC and turn the fridge on. Am I thinking this through correctly? Thanks, Pam (a nurse, not an electrician)
__________________

__________________
pamelake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2004, 03:01 PM   #2
Vintage Alum. Enthusiast
 
flyfshr's Avatar

 
1959 24' Tradewind
Phoenix , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: I currently do not own a 2nd Airstream
Posts: 4,319
Images: 40
Pam,
Undoubtedly, your fridge is not meant to operate on 12 voly only. If yours is like mine, the 12 volt is needed for the panel switches to work properly while running on propane. It will fry your 12 battery in short order if that is all its hooked up to. Some of the fridges will operate on 12 volt only through the umbilical cord while the vehicle engine is running but without the alternator providing the juice will drain a car battery in just a few hous. Is your fridge a three way i.e.: 110 volt, 12 volt or propane?

FF
__________________

__________________
4CU 2699 / AIR 10 / TAC AZ-1

I'm haunted by aluminum.
Charter Member of the 4 Corners Unit.
flyfshr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2004, 03:25 PM   #3
3 Rivet Member
 
pamelake's Avatar
 
1974 25' Tradewind
Lake Oswego , Oregon
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 218
No, the fridge runs on 110 or propane. My understanding is that the 12 volt is to run the panel. The repairman I talked with at Camping World said having the 12 volt plugged in is necessary even when running on 110 volt. Do you think that is correct? Otherwise I could just plug the fridge into my 110. If I need the 12volt to run the panel while running on 110, do you think my plan will work? Or will I fry something??? Other then my brain on 'electrical story problems'.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfshr
Pam,
Undoubtedly, your fridge is not meant to operate on 12 voly only. If yours is like mine, the 12 volt is needed for the panel switches to work properly while running on propane. It will fry your 12 battery in short order if that is all its hooked up to. Some of the fridges will operate on 12 volt only through the umbilical cord while the vehicle engine is running but without the alternator providing the juice will drain a car battery in just a few hous. Is your fridge a three way i.e.: 110 volt, 12 volt or propane?

FF
__________________
pamelake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2004, 04:11 PM   #4
1 Rivet Member
 
2005 28' Safari S/O
North Branford , Connecticut
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 10
Methinks the repairman is 100% correct. When you fire it up, run it on AC, then unplug the AC and be sure it switches to, and works on gas.

GL and best for '05
__________________
Regards,

Stephen
stephen.s1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2005, 05:59 AM   #5
2 Rivet Member
 
Mike76251's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 52
If you don't have the switch panel on yours (mine has no such panel) and you try to run it through that inverter.......you will no doubt fry the inverter as these fridges pull MANY amps when running on 12v.
Also, remember the old trick of turning the fridge over on it's top if it will not cool.
If they sit too long unused, the liquid inside the lines will form a solid mass in the bottom and agitation is sometimes neccesary to get it back into a liquid state.
__________________
Mike
Mike76251 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2005, 08:06 AM   #6
4 Rivet Member
 
jimmickle's Avatar
 
2000 31' Land Yacht
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 497
The current Dometic gas/electric run on either 110v AC or propane. Their controls require 12v DC to operate. No 12v=No operation. The current draw is very low, or we wouldn't be able to boondock as our batteries would quickly discharge. My only concern with using the inverter is the voltage and quality of the DC. Circuit boards are expensive, so I would want to be sure that the DC is clean. Could you plug it into your car cigarette lighter? Or borrow a battery somewhere?
Good luck on your tests.
__________________
jimmickle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2005, 11:21 AM   #7
3 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 111
Well I am now more confused than when I first read this thread.
The "old trick" of turning the fridge upside down is a new revalation as far as I can tell. or is it just an April fool stunt?
What is the liquid that becomes solid? And what would upside down have to do with turning a solid (back) into liquid?
I would like to be directed to more about it. Is there another thread where it is discussed?

As for you Pam I would wait for more definative advice because the one thing I do totally agree with is the cost of circuit boards being rediculously high.
Might have been helpful if you'd posted the model numbers.
Fridges are one of the most necessary but expensive items in these old trailers. Much more expensive than ACs and apparently less reliable.

I used to think I knew which members were to be most "trusted" with electrical advice, but I have found that it is the subject most misunderstood and most over advised not to mention most inaccurately advised on this and other Airstream forums. Be careful.
Oh I know very little about electrical too so your'e not alone.
Good luck.
__________________
Hit'nMiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2005, 07:24 PM   #8
Just a member
 
thenewkid64's Avatar
 
1978 28' Argosy 28
Tampa Bay , Florida
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,539
Images: 21
Send a message via AIM to thenewkid64 Send a message via Yahoo to thenewkid64 Send a message via Skype™ to thenewkid64
I would just hook the fridge to a known good 12 VDC source, Like an RV Battery.....


As for the turning the refer upside down this is what I have been told.

Running a fridge out of level can cause the coolant to actual boil dry and create a a plug in the lines where the coolant is supposed to flow back to the boiler. This plug will cause a refer to stop working. Turning the refer upside down (do not run the refer upside down) causes the liquid to soak the plug so it will unblock the pipe.

There is also a situation where a refer will get blocked by what is described as a bubble. This is a coolant blockage as well. Turning the refer over can clear it. This is also referred to as burping the fridge.

If the fridge is working there is no need to do either. Sometimes these things work, but they are the last chance in many cases before writing a sizable check for a new refer. If you attempt either "fix" do not have the refer connected to power or gas, and it needs to be left upside down for a few days.
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
-------------------------
1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome

Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato


thenewkid64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2005, 02:16 AM   #9
2 Rivet Member
 
Mike76251's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 52
I was just assuming that the fridge was pretty old and might not have a control panel.
If it was old enough not to have one and she hooked it up through a invertor........might blow a good invertor.
Those things can be rather high.

Also......sorry for making the burping fridge procedure sound like a joke. I didn't give out enough details I guess. I didn't because I thought it was pretty common knowledge.
__________________
Mike
Mike76251 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2005, 08:23 PM   #10
Rivet Master
 
Condoluminum's Avatar
 
1988 25' Excella
Sunnyvale , California
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,858
Images: 13
Send a message via AIM to Condoluminum
Run it for more than an hour or two..

Pam;

Assuming you've found way to furnish 12V power to fridge control circuit and propane source, or else 110V source (or both..) ther eis one more bit of advice.. Barring either leaks from back of tubing (smelly and messy and noticeable) other two failure modes are blockage of tubing (internal) which will appear as failure to get cold OR.. failing "Control Board", which causes fridge to start up and get cold, but then shut down after 6 to 12 hours... This is due to Dometic practice of embedding older boards in plastic compund that lets heat build up.. This heat will cause component failure and board shutdown when it gets hot.. Cure is either Dometic or Brand X replacement control board ($120 or so..) before buying new refrigerator at $800+... I think Dinosaur is the leading independent maker of contol boards for Dometics... (Beware that a number of dealers would rather sell new refrigerator and install it than troubleshoot and repair board in existing units..) Less risk of recurring problems, and more margin for shops...

John McG
__________________
Condoluminum

In Theory, there's no difference between Theory and Practice, but in Practice, there is usually a difference...
Condoluminum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2005, 08:24 PM   #11
2 Rivet Member
 
gsymes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 48
Images: 5
Burping

Not having done it myself, just go by what I have read. Burping does work about 50% of the time. Threads on this site lead me to the sites that verify this. There is a powder in the ammonia cocktail that run these units, sometimes in a off level condition the powder clogs up. Most units that ran 3 way 110v, propane,and 12v need a lot of 12v amperage to run effieciently.
http://www.gasrefrigeration.net/how_they_work.htm
This site offers great information on the refer.
__________________
Regards Greg
Life is like an Airstream, we always have the potential to shine
gsymes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2005, 09:53 AM   #12
2 Rivet Member
 
Mike76251's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 52
Yeah...... burping does not work every time but I would sure try it before I laid down $800 or so for a new one.
I hope I never have to replace my '72 fridge because I do not want any electronics to replace every few years.
I still don't know why they went with electronics on the newer fridges because the only thing to go bad in a fridge like mine is mis-use (off level running), or rust-out.

The rust is going to get mine one of these days because the sodium pipes are not stainless..........drats.

My neighbor has a sodium fridge (old hospital type) that has been cooling constant for 40+ years and still going strong.

Gotta hand it to Albert Einstein..........he got that idea right.
__________________

__________________
Mike
Mike76251 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1977 Dometic refridgerator overlander Refrigerators 30 03-14-2015 01:08 PM
removing Dometic Refrigerator smily Refrigerators 16 08-18-2010 04:36 AM
Replacing RM100 fridge....troubles? JohnGalt48 Refrigerators 3 04-18-2004 08:13 AM
Run the fridge while traveling? CBBOB General Motorhome Topics 35 11-26-2002 08:40 AM
Propane fridge installation yaakman Refrigerators 5 09-12-2002 07:34 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:39 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.