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Old 01-18-2013, 10:54 PM   #1
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Testing a Dometic before installation

Is it possible to safely hook up and test a Dometic DM2662RBX to electric and gas BEFORE installing inside your RV? If so, how? Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:35 PM   #2
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Yes it is possible. But if you are not familiar with working with 120 volt AC power and feel comfortable connecting it to your refer. Then you need to seek knowledgeable help.
The same goes for testing the refer while on propane. For example: you cannot connect a propane source to the refer without the proper regulator. You should be knowledgeable of the individual components of the gas fired system in order to troubleshoot the system.
I was able to bench test and make the necessary repairs to the 39 year old refer in my Argosy. My background is in Electrical and Mechanical Engineering and Maintenance. So it is an area I am comfortable working in.
Again! If this is not in your knowledge or comfort zone. Then seek qualified, knowledgeable help.
It is better to be SAFE than SORRY!
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:42 AM   #3
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Fridge test rig

I was able to test our fridge using a 20lb. propane bottle and a barbecue grill regulator I bought at Lowe's. A few pipe nipples and adapters worked for the gas connections.

I set this up in our workshop where there was plenty of ventilation and very few flammable objects nearby. Fire extinguisher close at hand.

I carefully checked all the gas connections with soapy water before attempting to light the fridge.

The 110 volt hookup was easy. The fridge had a common household style plug on the cord (that hooks to an outlet in the wall of the Airstream fridge compartment). I just plugged it into a good (12 gauge wire) extension cord.

Our fridge needs 12volt power for the control circuits, so I hooked those wires to a battery charger. Isolate or insulate the clamps so nothing shorts out.

Remember that the fridge has to be level, even for testing, and that it will take quite a while to cool. Set it up in a place where it can stay for a couple of days.
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:46 PM   #4
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Thanks for the responses on how to test my fridge. I will try to take photos, and post the results. This is an awesome forum!!!
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:51 PM   #5
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On the battery charger, what setting should I turn it onto 2amp, 10amp?
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:36 PM   #6
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Battery charger

On the battery charger, what setting should I turn it onto 2amp, 10amp?

2 amp setting should be plenty. I don't remember which I used, but I think it was 2 amps.

The circuit on the fridge will take only what it needs on either setting. It isn't like a dead battery that can take more than the charger is designed to supply.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:40 PM   #7
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By the way, I've found great info on RV fridges at rvmobile.com. Check the "technical help" section of their website and you should find wiring diagrams of various models and some great tutorials on how these fridges work. They rebuilt our fridge cooling unit for us, and it works great.
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:09 PM   #8
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It would be safer for your control board if you used a 12 volt battery instead of a battery charger. Just a little cleaner DC voltage. You could hook the charger to the battery, but just have the battery in the equation to buffer the power. Good advice on how to test the fridge, I have done it the same way except used a battery instead of the charger.
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ventport View Post
It would be safer for your control board if you used a 12 volt battery instead of a battery charger. Just a little cleaner DC voltage. You could hook the charger to the battery, but just have the battery in the equation to buffer the power. Good advice on how to test the fridge, I have done it the same way except used a battery instead of the charger.
This makes a lot of sense. And in fact, the bit of draw that the control board would use, I doubt that you would need to charge the battery during your tests...
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