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Old 08-09-2015, 04:35 PM   #15
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Just like many of the claims and outlandish post made here, very little if any evidence to back up these doom and gloom claims.
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:45 PM   #16
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Running Refer on the road

Doom and gloom? You mean holes? Water will find the path of least resistance--many of us know from experience. Water can travel a long ways from where it entered and the source of leaks can be very difficult to find.

I agree, don't drill holes in the roof, or anywhere there is another option.
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:51 PM   #17
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Running the Refer on the road

I have what I call my "solar bowling alley" on the roof of my 34' classic. It is 4x 10 feet weighing more than 100 pounds. I have been in 100 plus mph winds several times for several years now. The tape has yet to fail and let go! I did nothing to cause any leaks, or make fore more leak points! As a disclaimer, I do have a couple stainless safety tethers which will keep them from flying into other people's property. It's a fail safe only to protect my liability.
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:52 PM   #18
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We have always run our refrigerator on LP while underway. We have over 1,600 nights out in the Airstreams, and have towed them over 140,000 miles over ten years.

We have never had a problem doing this. I am always careful to watch where the refrigerator access door is in relation to the fuel pump. I never leave the vehicle while fueling.

We feel comfortable traveling this way, but not all do.

Each of us has to make their own decision relative to this issue.

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Old 08-09-2015, 05:04 PM   #19
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My Avion also had the Dometic 3-way. I never ran it on 12v. Always LP on the road and 120v at the site. I'd always heard that the heating element draws so much juice that on 12v it's a strong draw. Maybe not so bad with the alternator on recharging, but let it run overnight and....dead batteries.

My new Dometic is a 2-way. I've pulled it about 20,000 miles with the fridge running on LP. Never any problems. I'll turn it off and shut off the gas to go through a tunnel. But it's not a big deal to pull off at the next convenient place and turn it back on. At fuel stations, my truck is a diesel, and diesel isn't volatile like gasoline. I used to turn it off. But I stopped. My truck is 22' long, and the trailer is 36' long. It's way back of the pump. But, I've seen guys throw a match into a bucket of diesel fuel and it just lights. It doesn't blow up. Lack of volatility. If my tow vehicle were gasoline powered, I might think differently.

Only you can decide what's right for you. Personally, I'm going to keep using my LP powered fridge as I go down the road. Otherwise, I'd tear the whole cabinet out and put in a Maytag stainless 29 cubic foot monster and just keep a bunch of ice in the bottom

See ya on the road,
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Old 08-09-2015, 05:04 PM   #20
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It only takes once but we travel with our propane on also. If we are at diesel only pumps, it doesn't worry me but I do go in and turn the gas off if I think of it. My husband doesn't worry about it much. I did have an acquaintance once that opened the door to her camper and whatever was going on in there blew the door off. I don't think we were at a gas station though. It happens but fortunately not often.
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:12 PM   #21
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I have s 2012 and the refer runs on propane and 120. The propane on mine shuts off whenever the tow vehicle is shut off for about 20 min so you can fuel up. It was in the Dometic reading material.
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:26 PM   #22
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I have s 2012 and the refer runs on propane and 120. The propane on mine shuts off whenever the tow vehicle is shut off for about 20 min so you can fuel up. It was in the Dometic reading material.

Interesting, I wonder how it knows. People have posted this before but have been unable to verify that it actually happens.
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:35 PM   #23
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Domestic does have this feature of a lockout but I don't think it is installed in an Airstream trailer. Likely for motorhomes. From my manual I found this.

TEMPORARY GAS LOCKOUT
When the refrigerator’s temporary gas lockout is energized, the LP gas operation will automatically lock out for 15 minutes when the engine is switched off. This will prevent LP gas operation e.g. when stopping at a refueling station. See Installation Instructions ALTERNATOR (D+) CONNEC- TION to install this feature.

And this to learn more about the connection. http://www.dometic.com/QBankFiles3/E...ring_29333.pdf
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Old 08-09-2015, 09:51 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by SSquared View Post
My 13 foot Scamp trailer has a tiny fridge with 3-way power. We run it on 12 volts on the road.

My 25FB Flying Cloud has a larger fridge with 2-way power. We have mucho solar on the roof (435 watts) and an inverter, and we run the fridge on 110 when on the road. Some travel days we end with the batteries 100% charged, some other days they are down by maybe 10 or 20 amp-hours.
SSquared, Would you mind sharing some info regarding your inverter you use to power your refer. I too have solar but just 300 watts. Will this be enough wattage to do what you do?
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Old 08-09-2015, 10:28 PM   #25
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SSquared, Would you mind sharing some info regarding your inverter you use to power your refer. I too have solar but just 300 watts. Will this be enough wattage to do what you do?
I have a Magnum 1000 watt pure sine wave interter/charger. The inverter has a remote display that shows the current it is pulling from the battery.

My solar system has a controller made by Blue Sky, that controller has a remote that shows the current produced by the solar system. It also has a "shunt" installed near the batteries. that allows it to sense and display the current being drawn from/put into the batteries.

The batteries are a pair of group 27 AGM batteries (Lifeline brand).

When the fridge is running off the inverter, the inverter display says it is drawing around 31 amps of current from the 12 volt system.

The solar system typically produces 25 amps around the middle of the day.

The alternator from the car also contributes power. I have not measured this directly, but once I saw the battery receiving 2 amps of charge when the fridge was running on the inverter and the solar was providing about 25 amps. That says the car was providing 8 amps.

For your 300 solar watt system, you can probably get 17 amps (less if your solar controller is not as efficient as the Blue Sky). At high noon, you would be drawing 14 amps from your batteries and/or car. Depending on how much power you get from the car, that might not be too bad. But on a partly cloudy day, or later in the afternoon on a sunny day, you'll pull a lot of power out of your batteries.

Offhand, I would say that if you don't have enough solar power combined with the power from your car to run the fridge at high noon (without using the batteries), it will probably not work out for you.
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Old 08-09-2015, 11:20 PM   #26
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There is a big difference in proximity between a b van (as in the video) and a travel trailer. My fridge is more than 20 feet away from the fuel fill on my tow vehicle. When I pull in to fuel, my trailer is nowhere near a pump, or usually even under a canopy!
First of all, thanks to Al and Missy for posting this story. I am the one who has asked for any proof of any fire caused by a fridge running down the road and this is the closest one I have seen. But, as I understand after reading the story, this was not an Airstream trailer but a van. On top of that the driver managed to spill gasoline not just on the ground but on the van itself. I can certainly see how this thing went up.

Those who have posted that have solar power and an inverter might have the best solution for avoiding using LP when traveling. This is the first alternative that makes sense to me. Nice solution.

I agree with Mr. Aluminum's post above. With the filler on one side and the fridge on the other side I think it would be a challenge for any one of us to spray enough gasoline around to get things to ignite. Possible? Perhaps.
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Old 08-09-2015, 11:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSquared View Post
I have a Magnum 1000 watt pure sine wave interter/charger. The inverter has a remote display that shows the current it is pulling from the battery.



My solar system has a controller made by Blue Sky, that controller has a remote that shows the current produced by the solar system. It also has a "shunt" installed near the batteries. that allows it to sense and display the current being drawn from/put into the batteries.



The batteries are a pair of group 27 AGM batteries (Lifeline brand).



When the fridge is running off the inverter, the inverter display says it is drawing around 31 amps of current from the 12 volt system.



The solar system typically produces 25 amps around the middle of the day.



The alternator from the car also contributes power. I have not measured this directly, but once I saw the battery receiving 2 amps of charge when the fridge was running on the inverter and the solar was providing about 25 amps. That says the car was providing 8 amps.



For your 300 solar watt system, you can probably get 17 amps (less if your solar controller is not as efficient as the Blue Sky). At high noon, you would be drawing 14 amps from your batteries and/or car. Depending on how much power you get from the car, that might not be too bad. But on a partly cloudy day, or later in the afternoon on a sunny day, you'll pull a lot of power out of your batteries.



Offhand, I would say that if you don't have enough solar power combined with the power from your car to run the fridge at high noon (without using the batteries), it will probably not work out for you.

You are doing your Lifeline batteries a great disservice if you allow them to be charged by an unregulated automotive alternator.

Lifeline recommends either to disable the charge line from the TV by pulling the fuse or by disconnect of the 7-way's umbilical charge connection at the trailer.

By continually pumping the alternator's 14.2-14.4VDC constant output into Lifelines, you never allow them to float charge, as they are seeing a steady bulk/absorb charge from the alternator.

You have solar too, so do your Lifelines a favor and kill the charge line! Your batteries will be much happier.


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Old 08-10-2015, 09:08 AM   #28
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Meant to ask about trailer, not RV. How many trailers or RVs are out there now running pilot lites on any appliance now?
They're all RV's.
Travel trailer is a type or category of RV- Recreational Vehicle-
Motor Home is another type or category of RV.
A fifth wheel is an RV.
A Class A motor home is an RV.
A Class B motor home is an RV.
A Class C motor home is an RV.
A travel trailer is an RV.
A pop-up trailer is an RV.
A teardrop trailer is an RV.
They're all RV's.
RV doesn't just mean motor home.
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