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Old 07-05-2013, 10:30 PM   #29
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kimberly,

The outlet behind the fridge is 120V, so that's what the regular 120V plug goes into.

You also need a 12V supply, for the electronics of the board. As Don pointed out, there isn't one of those in the refer's back cabinet; you need to find a source for that.

But I think it might be time to involve an expert, to get you by this part safely. Electrical work can be tricky, if you aren't experienced.

It's important that you are safe. Saving money is important, but being safe is more important, wouldn't you agree?
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:47 PM   #30
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Replacement refrigerator not working

Greetings kimberlyjan!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kimberlyjan View Post
Ok, I'm re-reading your post, adonh. I see where you put the purpose of the battery. Since the converter didn't charge the battery, maybe it's a bad new battery?
The battery could be bad, or the in-line fuses in one or both battery cables may need to be replaced. If my memory is correct, our Argosys have a 50-amp in-line fuse in each of the battery cables.

Your modern Dometic refrigerator has a microprocessor control board that requires 12-volt DC power to operate. Without its 12-volt connection, the refrigerator will not function. The refrigerator doesn't have a distinct preference whether it receives its 12-volt DC from a battery or power converter . . . but the Univolt has a reputation for producing voltage that isn't always consistent and that can cause problems for electronic controls like the Dometic electronic control module.

Good luck with your Argosy . . . these teething problems are typically short-lived!

Kevin
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Old 07-06-2013, 07:13 AM   #31
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All the new stuff all at once can be overwhelming and sometimes its a good idea to just step back and take a deep breath and even maybe walk away for awhile before trying again.
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Old 07-07-2013, 05:09 PM   #32
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Ok, so there are cigarette lighter outlets all over the trailer. We ran the wire to one of those just beside the fridge. It says "12 volt". That didn't work. Blew a fuse!
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:15 PM   #33
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Greetings kimberlyjan!

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Ok, so there are cigarette lighter outlets all over the trailer. We ran the wire to one of those just beside the fridge. It says "12 volt". That didn't work. Blew a fuse!
I can think of two possibilities that may explain what happened. If the fuse that blew is on the Univolt power converter the addition of the small drain of the refrigerators circuit board . . . or there may be internal problems with the cigarette lighter outlet as those have a reputation of failing at the most inopportune times. If the fuse that blew is on the refrigerator's circuit board, it may be that the Univolt is producing too much voltage (some of the old Univolts produced up to 18 volts.

I know that when I had the Dometic 3-Way RV refrigerator installed in my Overlander, they insisted upon running a heavy gauge dedicated wire from the refrigerator to the 12-volt DC circuit board (my Univolt had been replaced several years earlier). Thus far (nearly 10 years) I haven't had any problems with my Dometic other than one failed circuit board about two years ago.

Good luck in locating your problem!

Kevin

P.S. You might want to try connecting a fully charged 12-volt battery directly to the refrigerator with appropriate in-line fuse to see if the refrigerator becomes cooperative under that environment.
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:06 AM   #34
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It was a fuse on the main fuse box of the camper. We did think about connecting it to a battery to see what happens.
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:39 AM   #35
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Update: Hubby got refer working with help of a friend. Battery was bad so store replaced it and univolt is still charging properly. YAY!!
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:44 AM   #36
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Update: Hubby got refer working with help of a friend. Battery was bad so store replaced it and univolt is still charging properly. YAY!!
YAY!!!!!! All is not lost.
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