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Old 11-04-2015, 05:23 PM   #1
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Refrigerator Will Not Cool on Shore Power

refrigerator is a dometic model2452 in a 2005 19" bambi.. will not cool in shore power mode, works great on propane. anything other than the heater to look at? I assume I can pull heater out and check to see if hot?? any suggestions?
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Old 11-04-2015, 05:36 PM   #2
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Are you sure you have 120 volt power? Both at the outlet and at the terminals where the heating element is terminated.


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Old 11-04-2015, 07:09 PM   #3
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This is a job for a meter, not your hand. The heating element will get super hot super fast.

Find the wires to the heating element. Check to see you have 120 volts across them when the refrigerator is in electric mode. If it does, then turn off the power, disconnect the element and check the continuity of the heating element itself. If it is open, it needs replacement.

If there is no 120 volt power to the element, you will have to do further checking to figure out that problem.
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Old 11-04-2015, 07:43 PM   #4
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Order a new heating element
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Old 11-05-2015, 12:48 PM   #5
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Dometic 2351 here... exact same issue. Runs like a champion on propane, at least most of the time (but not always), but will not run on shore power. Forget about using the "Auto" setting. We investigated everything, even pulling fuses off the internal workings and replacing two of the circuit boards / electronic parts (the board on the front face and square-ish electronics unit that is accessible via the rear). No dice - it still won't work, and we are no closer to knowing what's wrong now than we were at the outset of this misadventure. I don't trust it, so we bought a new one, same model but 8 years younger. It's sitting on our garage floor waiting to be installed this weekend.
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Old 11-08-2015, 09:33 PM   #6
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The ammonia type frig. uses a heat source to drive the phase change from a liquid to a gas, which will transfer heat between the condenser and the evaporator, or something like that.

That means you could connect the electric heating element to 120VAC and the frig should run, just like the propane burner. The easy way to test the 120VAC heating element is with a ohm meter; unplug the power cord, disconnect one leg and measure across the element, open circuit is defective (I would guess a good value would be around 60 ohms).
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Old 11-10-2015, 04:35 PM   #7
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could you please verify that testing process? what is it that I touched with meter probes to get a reading? confused about measuring across the element? thanks
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Old 11-10-2015, 04:49 PM   #8
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There is a heating element wrapped and insulated on your refrigerator pipes. I will look for a image that you can use. It is just a resistive heater. By removing one connection the resistance can be measured.


Here is a link to the parts diagram. It is item 67 on page 8:
http://www2.dometic.com/ff92cd7f-1f9...498efe4a.fodoc
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Old 11-11-2015, 08:42 AM   #9
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thanks from someone who has not clue on electrical issues.. will give it a try this afternoon . I was trying to measure both legs off and got 0
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Old 11-11-2015, 09:31 AM   #10
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Zero or infinity?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrbaron View Post
thanks from someone who has not clue on electrical issues.. will give it a try this afternoon . I was trying to measure both legs off and got 0
Measuring with both legs disconnected is OK. The purpose is to isolate the heating element so nothing else is affecting your measurement.

If the resistance across your heating element reads zero, there's a short in it somewhere. That should have tripped a circuit breaker in the trailer's panel. Please realize that an analog meter reads "backwards" on the resistance scale--infinity is on the left on all of mine.

If it reads infinity, the element is bad--has an open circuit.

A good one should read some resistance, because that's how they make heat.
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Old 11-11-2015, 10:15 AM   #11
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When my refer failed to cool on electric (but worked on gas), I just checked for 120v at the heating element connections at the board with my meter. It had power. Then I used the continuity feature on the meter to check the element. No continuity. Replaced it. Problem solved.
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Old 11-11-2015, 10:44 AM   #12
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I had a fuse failure, a cheap fuse that rusted apart, didn't blow, that kept my refer from running on 120. Lasted just over a year from new. Access from the back side.
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Old 11-12-2015, 06:09 AM   #13
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I'd appreciate hearing where folks source parts for Dometic fridges. We just replaced our 2351 for this same reason as the OP - would cool on gas but not on shore power, plus it was old, plus it was not cooling on gas all the time, so we just said to heck with it, get a new one.

We bought the new one at a good sale price because it didn't come with its front panel. We figured we'd buy that separately. Well, we couldn't find a good supplier and there were apparently no front panels to be had. So we bought a metal kitchen backsplash at Lowes and cut it down to size.

The benefit there is that I now I have a magnetic fridge front which I prefer, whereas the Dometic OEM front is brushed aluminum. But for future reference I'd like ideas on where to hunt for Dometic parts.
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:03 AM   #14
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PPL Motorhomes sells a lot of Dometic parts.

Mike
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