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Old 03-21-2007, 11:18 AM   #15
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Rather than trying to run on an inverter and having the necessary battery storage or alternator capacity, how about one of these: Tundra Refrigerators for Boats

I am planning on installing one of them in my Liner. Besides running on 12/120V, since it is compresser driven and not ammonia absorption it will run up to 30 degrees off level.

Bill
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Old 03-21-2007, 11:38 AM   #16
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hi moosetags...

i understand the 'better mouse trap' urge...

keep in mind the proverb...

'perfect is the enemy of good' often restated 'the enemy of good is better'

i've learnt' it several times and will again...

the classic mohos had 3 way fridges and 12v duty worked fine...

for keeping a cold box cool. not for the initial cooling or long duty or really hot days...

mine was used regularly and without issues, but only while driving....

and not when the drivetrain was needed for uphills, wind or other demanding conditions...

having 12v available for tunnels, ferry crossings and other specific "no flammables" situations is great,

but no doubt increases the cost of rv fridges and warranty issues...

cheer
2air'
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Old 03-21-2007, 03:24 PM   #17
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That Tundra two-door unit looks sharp - 53" tall and dedicated icebox from a AC 115W or 4.5 amps DC supply - 130lbs weight... only six google hits for the model number and prices of $1600.... oh well...
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Old 03-21-2007, 03:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabbiteer
That Tundra two-door unit looks sharp - 53" tall and dedicated icebox from a AC 115W or 4.5 amps DC supply - 130lbs weight... only six google hits for the model number and prices of $1600.... oh well...
I agree, it is not cheap, but neither is a ammonia absorption model of the same size. Too bad that the discount suppliers don't handle that model. But if you are replacing an existing refrig and need the non propane or off level capacity, it may be worth it.

Bill
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Old 03-21-2007, 04:01 PM   #19
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Another things to consider if you are going to go the 120V/inverter route is to be sure your alternator is sized to supply the DC amperage that will be required.

I put several alternators in my MH before I realized I needed a much higher capacity alternator.
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Old 03-21-2007, 04:17 PM   #20
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Factor in the duty cycle

We use a medium size dorm style fridge. When running on the inverter the defrost heaters are taken out of the circuit. Average amps the compressor draws when on is 1.2 (120volts)...that translates to about 16 amps at 12 volts drawn by the inverter. HOWEVER on a hot day the duty cycle is about 25% on time, and the average is only 10-15%. Any inverter operating at 50% efficiency should be thrown out. 80-90% efficient inverters are not expensive. Your idea will work on small, efficient, electric fridges.
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Old 03-24-2007, 03:01 PM   #21
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A lot of good info here.... I really like the post re: DC voltage/current and wire size...

My tow vehicle has the inverter -- direct connection (key is to keep this wire connection as short as possible) to the truck battery system. The alternator is PLENTY large enough in capacity to handle the 'fridge. The inverter is rated at 1200 watts -- the front panel meter shows the load on the battery - and the meter is normally at the 10% line of the total available power. There is a 60 amp disconnect switch in the line between the battery and the input to the inverter. No fuse as yet, but I'll install an in-line fuse/holder soon..like I have in our bus conversion. The 'fridge runs all of its cycles: cooling, defrost, etc w/o any trouble. I have a 120 volt light in the cab that is connected to the inverter output that I can see from the drivers chair--- just in case the inverter trips off (never has).

One BIG note here.... we DO NOT boon dock with our Airstream!!! With small holding tanks, no way to run the A/C ------ why heck, to us 'ruffin' it is Black and White TV... The bus has 8 KW diesel gen and is fed from 180 gallon tanks.... water and holding tanks are 100 gallon... THAT we can boon dock with...When we are going down the road, the generator is on... that provides power for the 'fridge, air conditioning, 20 gallon water heater keeps temp of water up, etc. I have found over the past 10 years, we do not use the inverter in the bus; just the generator (the inverter is used only as a battery charger - and it is running and keeping battery systems charged while we are driving)

These inverters are small enough they might actually fit under the tow vehicle seat!! And I think my unit cost $105.00 --- purchased on the Internet from Inverters R Us Has the Power You Need I think that is correct.

Have fun with this stuf --- be safe..
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Old 04-30-2007, 07:35 PM   #22
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Most interesting. I was thinking of possibly using the 120 inverter currently on my beast. It has a massive alternator to match. I have two 15 AMP circuits, but have not found out much about what the practial load is. Apparantly they were set up to run a lot of equipment, not to mention the lights. As far as if it is worth it...well, reckon it depends on how long one is on the road. Probably not critical for me, but can't help but wonder if it would work. I suppose that would be like using the truck as a generator, talk about overkill!
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