Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-14-2008, 06:06 PM   #29
2 Rivet Member
 
grantb4's Avatar
 
2005 22' Safari
San Juan Capistrano , California
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 85
I "adjusted" the termistor so that it is popping just above the fin a bit and replaced the fan under the exterior panel (ours jammed and blew a fuse, then died altogether). Now it works great. Knock wood.

If you put a bunch of warm food in, or don't have a supply of cold food in the fridge, it will appear to be warm for a long time. These fridges take forever. Like inertia.

Shade over that side of the trailer can help too, but don't block the airflow.
__________________

__________________
grantb4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2008, 07:13 PM   #30
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
 
lewster's Avatar
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples, FL , Hood River, OR
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,282
Quote:
Originally Posted by grantb4
I "adjusted" the termistor so that it is popping just above the fin a bit and replaced the fan under the exterior panel (ours jammed and blew a fuse, then died altogether). Now it works great. Knock wood.

If you put a bunch of warm food in, or don't have a supply of cold food in the fridge, it will appear to be warm for a long time. These fridges take forever. Like inertia.

Shade over that side of the trailer can help too, but don't block the airflow.
Can't believe that I missed this thread. Most of the info in here is correct, but your thermistor should NOT be protruding above the fin!

This is an indication of other problems....like insufficient airflow around the condenser fins.....and BTW, the Snyders kit pulls air from below and pushes it up across the fins and out the vent or upper door.

Initially, a fridge at ambient temp takes 8-12 hours to cool down. If you put warm food in it, it will take an extended time to recover the loss of the cool air inside the box. Also, if you have a 3-way fridge, the 12VDC element is designed to simply maintain temperature....not coold own the unit! BTW, it also takes a full hour for the fridge to recover for every minute that you leave the door open!!!!

I can't stress the importance of proper air flow across the condenser coils. I did a little experiment for a customer to show this. His Norcold 4-door fridge (1200LRIM) was not getting cool, and I traced his problem to a bad fan thermostat and inoperative cooling fans (there are 2 of them on these units, pointing right up at the condenser.

While waiting for warranty parts to arrive from Norcold, I installed a small 120VAC fan on the bottom of the outer fridge compartment (at the back of the unit)blowing air UP and another all 120VAC fan at his upper vent door blowing OUT .

I then told him to turn his temp setting down to #2 (from the max #9 he had it on). He initially scoffed at me but agreed when I told him that I would personally pay for any lost food from his unit if it failed to keep cool.

He had a temp probe in the unit and called me the next morning to tell me that the unit NEVER worked so well, and that he had to turn it down to #1 to keep the food from freezing!!!

This demonstrated the power that cooling fans have in keeping the condenser cool to allow it to operate more efficiently. Of course, he had no thermostatic control on the fans, and that is why his unit got so cold, but in very hot ambient temps, it is imperative to have good circulation over the condenser fins to assure proper cooling of your fridge.

The 4 cu. ft. Dometic that I have in my CCD has the same issues in very hot temps, even with the Snyders kit installed. I am also adding 2-12VDC fans to the upper vent door with a manual switch blowing out, and that should keep the temps very frosty inside.
__________________

__________________
Lew Farber...ABYC Certified Master Marine Electrician...RVIA Certified Master Tech ...AM Solar Authorized Installation Center...AIRSTREAM Solar & Electrical Specialist...Micro Air 'Easy Start' Sales and Installations
lewster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2008, 10:40 PM   #31
4 Rivet Member
 
ctdair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 328
Images: 3
Heat transfer is the name of the game. The evaporator in the fridge is absorbing heat from the food placed in there or the warm air inside when empty.(The coolig medium in the evapoeator more precisely) The condenser must then release the heat absorbed to the surrounding exterior air,(allowing the medium to condense) that is why efficent air movement through the side vents and out the roof vent is vital for the best cooling.
__________________
"Forbidden Wheels Clubhouse Recon Team"
S/OS #010
2004 30ft Slide Out with Hensley Arrow hitch. Pulled By 2010 Dodge 2500 Diesel 4x4 Megacab
ctdair is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2010, 12:23 AM   #32
2 Rivet Member
 
Harleyjohn's Avatar
 
1992 33' Land Yacht
Wisconsin Dells , Wisconsin
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 27
New to this RV'ing--bought '92 LY and have Dometic fridg that quit working in electric, though it automatically changed to lpg and worked fine. My local RV dealer said the heating element needed replacement. After i made the exchange, I found nothing changed. Any ideas??
__________________
John
New Member, Air#45995
WBCCI
1SGT, US Army
Retired
Harleyjohn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2010, 08:07 AM   #33
2 Rivet Member
 
grantb4's Avatar
 
2005 22' Safari
San Juan Capistrano , California
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 85
If it's powered from 110v, check the outlet and wiring?
__________________
grantb4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2010, 08:23 AM   #34
2 Rivet Member
 
Harleyjohn's Avatar
 
1992 33' Land Yacht
Wisconsin Dells , Wisconsin
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 27
All other electric is evident, ie: power light on the range hood and the microwave clock is on......this is what I check when I plug in...
__________________
John
New Member, Air#45995
WBCCI
1SGT, US Army
Retired
Harleyjohn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2010, 09:36 AM   #35
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar

 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,410
Images: 5
I'll tell you from experience, if it's HOT outside it certainly can take 12 - 18 hours for a heat soaked unit (all it's mass at 90 degrees) to cool down to 40 - 45 degrees. The "slide" is a thermister which is the temp sensor for the cooling unit. I never tried to move it up and down for an adjustment, however on my old SOB Dometic RM 2430 (i think), I removed it from direct contact with the fin and placed it horizontal behind the condensation tray. This took my fridge from barely making 45 degrees at the coldest (10) setting to 38 degres at a # 2 - 3 setting, giving me a lot more adjustability. I wonder how many "fridge not cold enough" complaints could be easily remedied this way. I am also a big "fan" of fans over the cooling unit. Also, if you have issues with stuff freezing on the bottom shelf and too warm on the top shelf, a little 12 V, 1" computer cooling fan from Radio Shack mounted on the cooling fins inside the fridge does wonders for evening out temps inside fridge. I wire both these fans to a home furnace blower motor switch ( on at 140 degrees and off at 120 degrees) mounted inside the Chimney. Whenever fridge is on and heating, fans are on. Whenever fridge off, fans off within an hour or so. Haven't had ANY cooling issues with 4 different fridges in virtually all US climates (except AK and HI) in the last 26 years.
__________________
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2010, 10:32 AM   #36
2 Rivet Member
 
Harleyjohn's Avatar
 
1992 33' Land Yacht
Wisconsin Dells , Wisconsin
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 27
Well, got some progress with this problem....Per Grant, I checked the fridge outlet and it tested correctly, then I plugged the refer cord to my 110v power cord from the house and the unit control panel showed it had switched to electric from the lpg it had been running on. Yea!!
Now what?? Board problem?? I'd previously (visually) checked the 2 fuses in the circuit board and they appeared fine, but I'll go check them by removing and checking them while out of the board and check contacts to verify power across them.
Anything else to check???
__________________
John
New Member, Air#45995
WBCCI
1SGT, US Army
Retired
Harleyjohn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2010, 10:57 AM   #37
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
 
lewster's Avatar
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples, FL , Hood River, OR
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,282
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harleyjohn View Post
Well, got some progress with this problem....Per Grant, I checked the fridge outlet and it tested correctly, then I plugged the refer cord to my 110v power cord from the house and the unit control panel showed it had switched to electric from the lpg it had been running on. Yea!!
Now what?? Board problem?? I'd previously (visually) checked the 2 fuses in the circuit board and they appeared fine, but I'll go check them by removing and checking them while out of the board and check contacts to verify power across them.
Anything else to check???
If your unit is working correctly on 120VAC from a known good source and not from the coach outlet, there is a problem with that outlet, not the fridge. I would check the wiring again, plug in another appliance to that fridge outlet like a fan or light bulb and see what happens.

Sounds like tha outlet is not providing proper 120VAC to the fridge if it works from the house outlet and not in the coach.
__________________
Lew Farber...ABYC Certified Master Marine Electrician...RVIA Certified Master Tech ...AM Solar Authorized Installation Center...AIRSTREAM Solar & Electrical Specialist...Micro Air 'Easy Start' Sales and Installations
lewster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2010, 11:37 AM   #38
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar

 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,410
Images: 5
I concur with Lewster. Not a fridge issue.
__________________
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2010, 12:09 PM   #39
2 Rivet Member
 
Harleyjohn's Avatar
 
1992 33' Land Yacht
Wisconsin Dells , Wisconsin
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 27
HURRAY!!!
After unplugging fridge to test the outlet with circuit tester, which tested fine, I decided to re-plug and go check the control on the fridge. AND IT WAS ON ELEC!!
Guessing that to perform a "re-start" if fridge fails to cooperate, maybe this should be done by un-plugging, wait a while, and then re-plugging the fridge plug!!??
__________________
John
New Member, Air#45995
WBCCI
1SGT, US Army
Retired
Harleyjohn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2010, 12:12 PM   #40
2 Rivet Member
 
Harleyjohn's Avatar
 
1992 33' Land Yacht
Wisconsin Dells , Wisconsin
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 27
And, by the way....the heater element tested ok, not shorted. Guess I spent $56 only to have a "spare" element. Oh well, "newby" learns lesson--test first!!
__________________

__________________
John
New Member, Air#45995
WBCCI
1SGT, US Army
Retired
Harleyjohn is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Water heater replacement Craig Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 36 12-18-2014 10:13 AM
Saggy Bottom ( rear end ) smily Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 127 10-01-2006 09:28 PM
new water lines Rob Fresh Water Systems 29 07-11-2006 09:25 PM
Pulling a Bambi with a Ranger? wallycox Tow Vehicles 42 10-17-2002 02:29 PM
cold weather how do air streams do? overlander Our Community 2 10-02-2002 06:10 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:23 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.