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Old 05-14-2008, 05:06 PM   #29
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grantb4's Avatar
Profile:  2005 22' Safari
San Juan Capistrano , California
Posts: 70

I "adjusted" the termistor so that it is popping just above the fin a bit and replaced the fan under the exterior panel (ours jammed and blew a fuse, then died altogether). Now it works great. Knock wood.

If you put a bunch of warm food in, or don't have a supply of cold food in the fridge, it will appear to be warm for a long time. These fridges take forever. Like inertia.

Shade over that side of the trailer can help too, but don't block the airflow.
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Old 05-14-2008, 06:13 PM   #30
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Profile:  2006 19' International CCD
Marco Island, FL , Hood River, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grantb4
I "adjusted" the termistor so that it is popping just above the fin a bit and replaced the fan under the exterior panel (ours jammed and blew a fuse, then died altogether). Now it works great. Knock wood.

If you put a bunch of warm food in, or don't have a supply of cold food in the fridge, it will appear to be warm for a long time. These fridges take forever. Like inertia.

Shade over that side of the trailer can help too, but don't block the airflow.
Can't believe that I missed this thread. Most of the info in here is correct, but your thermistor should NOT be protruding above the fin!

This is an indication of other problems....like insufficient airflow around the condenser fins.....and BTW, the Snyders kit pulls air from below and pushes it up across the fins and out the vent or upper door.

Initially, a fridge at ambient temp takes 8-12 hours to cool down. If you put warm food in it, it will take an extended time to recover the loss of the cool air inside the box. Also, if you have a 3-way fridge, the 12VDC element is designed to simply maintain temperature....not coold own the unit! BTW, it also takes a full hour for the fridge to recover for every minute that you leave the door open!!!!

I can't stress the importance of proper air flow across the condenser coils. I did a little experiment for a customer to show this. His Norcold 4-door fridge (1200LRIM) was not getting cool, and I traced his problem to a bad fan thermostat and inoperative cooling fans (there are 2 of them on these units, pointing right up at the condenser.

While waiting for warranty parts to arrive from Norcold, I installed a small 120VAC fan on the bottom of the outer fridge compartment (at the back of the unit)blowing air UP and another all 120VAC fan at his upper vent door blowing OUT .

I then told him to turn his temp setting down to #2 (from the max #9 he had it on). He initially scoffed at me but agreed when I told him that I would personally pay for any lost food from his unit if it failed to keep cool.

He had a temp probe in the unit and called me the next morning to tell me that the unit NEVER worked so well, and that he had to turn it down to #1 to keep the food from freezing!!!

This demonstrated the power that cooling fans have in keeping the condenser cool to allow it to operate more efficiently. Of course, he had no thermostatic control on the fans, and that is why his unit got so cold, but in very hot ambient temps, it is imperative to have good circulation over the condenser fins to assure proper cooling of your fridge.

The 4 cu. ft. Dometic that I have in my CCD has the same issues in very hot temps, even with the Snyders kit installed. I am also adding 2-12VDC fans to the upper vent door with a manual switch blowing out, and that should keep the temps very frosty inside.
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Old 05-14-2008, 09:40 PM   #31
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Heat transfer is the name of the game. The evaporator in the fridge is absorbing heat from the food placed in there or the warm air inside when empty.(The coolig medium in the evapoeator more precisely) The condenser must then release the heat absorbed to the surrounding exterior air,(allowing the medium to condense) that is why efficent air movement through the side vents and out the roof vent is vital for the best cooling.
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