Refrigerator Helper

[sailorii]

I have discovered in the outside compartment of the refrigerator that Airstream in my 2009 model installed an AC outlet to simply plug in the refrigerator. Has anyone used the other receptacle to plug in a small fan to improve ventilation in this compartment? Assume it would improve fridge operation on hot days. Any suggestions on where to get a small, quiet AC fan?

[polarlyse]

I think all you would need would be a doner fan from an old computer. Just a very low volume air flow.

[Steve & Susan]

We use a 12 volt computer fan and wired it to the refrigerator wiring - that way we can use it when boon docking and not just when plugged into shore power. Radio shack sells them for about $10 and the wiring is simple. They REALLY do help the efficiency of the refrigerator on warmer days. We also wired an on/off switch to it so that it can be turned off when not needed.

[DKDarrow]

We picked up a 110V fan at home depot for like $15. Made by honeywell and sits flat on the bottom of the compartment and swivels to various angles blowing upward..............WORKS GREAT.....God bless...........Dennis

[Pahaska]

The best solution is to put the fan right on the fins where airflow is needed and use a duct to direct the airflow. That permits a smaller and quieter fan. For a really good fan solution look at the "Snyder Fan" for $60 shipped.

The downside is that you have to pull out the refrigerator to install the kit. The good side is that it is 12v, virtually silent, and thermostat controlled so that it runs only as needed. Installation is a 15-minute job once the back of the refrigerator is exposed.

While the refrigerator is out, it is a great time to check that the flue is clean and generally clean up the back of the box.

[Mr.Bill]

Ok, I admit that I naively thought that the refrigerator in an Airstream (or any other trailer) would keep things cold, just like the refrigerator at home. Looking at some threads it appears that I was way off - on one thread someone said that the temperature inside the reefer got up to 75 degrees on a particularly hot day. The only way I can see to get around this problem would be to put a large container of ice inside the refrigerator. But this begs the question - on a small vintage trailer, would it be better to just keep the icebox that came with the trailer, instead of replacing it with a refrigerator? Would the icebox actually do a better job of keeping things cold in hot weather?

Incidentally, my son is an appliance tech for a major brand, and he says that the best way to keep a refrigerator cold is to fill it up. Every time you open the refrigerator the air in it gets warm, and it takes a lot of energy to cool air. If the unit is full of frozen and/or cold products (or even some bottles full of ice) there is less of that troublesome air.

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by Mr.Bill

Incidentally, my son is an appliance tech for a major brand, and he says that the best way to keep a refrigerator cold is to fill it up. Every time you open the refrigerator the air in it gets warm, and it takes a lot of energy to cool air. If the unit is full of frozen and/or cold products (or even some bottles full of ice) there is less of that troublesome air.

Absolutely correct. When our refrigerator is not heavily loaded, we keep it stocked with a lot of bottles of water or other drinks to give some additional thermal mass. The only caveat is to replace the bottles gradually as we use them so that we don't give the refrigerator a big thermal shock by putting in a whole bunch of warm bottles at one time.

RV fridges are fine to keep things cold, they are not great at cooling a lot of mass from room temperature or higher.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Best way, it wont use any battery power.
Never had a refer problem, (well not a cold one anyway), 'cept when one quit altogether in our Safari they have been pretty darn reliable. DW is an xpert at packing so that helps.

[Ben4762]

Originally Posted by Pahaska

The best solution is to put the fan right on the fins where airflow is needed and use a duct to direct the airflow. That permits a smaller and quieter fan. For a really good fan solution look at the "Snyder Fan" for $60 shipped.

The downside is that you have to pull out the refrigerator to install the kit. The good side is that it is 12v, virtually silent, and thermostat controlled so that it runs only as needed. Installation is a 15-minute job once the back of the refrigerator is exposed.

While the refrigerator is out, it is a great time to check that the flue is clean and generally clean up the back of the box.

I get a virus threat from Norton when I try to go to the Snyder website.

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by Ben4762

I get a virus threat from Norton when I try to go to the Snyder website.

My virus checker has no problem with the Snyder website. I have had it up a number of times over the last year without any problem.

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Best way, it wont use any battery power.
Never had a refer problem, (well not a cold one anyway), 'cept when one quit altogether in our Safari they have been pretty darn reliable. DW is an xpert at packing so that helps.

The 12v draw of a properly installed fan is negligible. I don't think any fan that does not have a plenum to channel the air is as good a solution as one like the Snyder that has a plenum.

Central Texas has barely gotten down below 90 degrees at night for the last 45 days. A solar fan at night doesn't do much.

[loechli]

I have a 1972 International with a late 1990's dometic refridgerator, will it have to be removed to istall the snyder fan kit?

What is involved in removing fridge, how hard is it?

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by loechli

I have a 1972 International with a late 1990's dometic refridgerator, will it have to be removed to istall the snyder fan kit?

What is involved in removing fridge, how hard is it?

Yes, the refrigerator must be pulled out to access the finned radiator at the top of the back. It is not difficult.

Turn off the propane, disconnect the propane line from the refrigerator using two wrenches to prevent twisting the copper line, cover the fitting to keep dirt from getting into the line, disconnect power and ground (best to turn off 12v source or remove fuse), remove two screws at bottom rear and some number of screws in front depending on model, slide the box out on something that will support it.

Reverse the procedure to reinstall the refrigerator. Check the propane line for leaks with soapy water.

[JFlach]

Okay I went to the listed website, would like to see what i was buying, although there are no pictures, anybody have any?

[vswingfield]

Originally Posted by JFlach

Okay I went to the listed website, would like to see what i was buying, although there are no pictures, anybody have any?

I had to do a few mods to the plenum due to the fins and tube routing on my Norcold vs. a Dometic.

There are photos here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...tml#post605986

Overall, I am pleased. Works well and I can only hear it in the bathroom, the rear fridge compartment wall is the front shower wall. Very slight even in the shower.

[Pahaska]

Go to my 2005 Classic 28 thread, post #287 for some photos of my installation.

[tkowalyk]

This is a great solution.

Amazon.com: Valterra A10-2900VP FridgeCool Solar Exhaust Fan: Automotive

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by tkowalyk

This is a great solution.

Amazon.com: Valterra A10-2900VP FridgeCool Solar Exhaust Fan: Automotive

If you live in the south as I do, I have to strongly disagree. You need air circulation at night as well as when the sun is shining.

BTW: Our LOW this morning was 82 degrees and it will be over 90 degrees at 10 tonight!

12v DC power is available in the refrigerator compartment or can be accessed in older trailers. A 12v fan draws negligible current and works 24 hours a day.