Originally Posted by pienjim
What, or where is the "freezer plate"? How do I know if it's level?...
there is NO FREEZER PLATE in the o.p. fridge.
your 70s unit might have this but newer boxes don't have this,
so YOUR 04 and the o.p's 05 don't have freezer plates.
our fridges rely on circulating heated ammonia which then evaporates, cools and drains back into the boiler...
on older fridges the cooling coils were often HORIZONTAL and located like a PLATE in the freezer floor.
((there by called 'freezer plates' ))
so to get good drainage, circulation and cooling it was important that the freezer floor be VERY level.
many of us kept a bubble level IN the freezer to guide this process.
the o.p. like most of us with norcold/dometic units made in the last 15+ years
have a different arrangement.
the cooling unit is ON THE BACKSIDE of the insulated box with doors...
(with fins that extend INTO the fridge box and a real COLD area on the freezer floor/back wall)
the process is still the same (heating/circulation/evaporation/cooling/condensing/driaining)...
and LEVEL still matters but not with the sensitivity of older food/ice boxes.
it would appear the o.p.'s box is vapor locked or the cooling unit has failed.
"burping" the coils after turning it OFF might restore normal function...
this burping is done with movement, vibration, WACKING the coils, or REleveling and restarting the fridge on gas or electric.
make sure the ventilation is clear/open and the flame chamber free of webs, spiders, carbon and so on...
the o.p. report of actual HEAT inside the box suggests a LEAK in the coils or major blockage.
((there was/IS a recall on many of the boxes from ~ 2004/5-07 with the potential for leaks AND fires...
looks like the recall is upwards of 1,000,000 units...
the official recall site includes a way to insert your serial/model numbers and check for inclusion...
IF the cooling unit has failed terminally there are several options....
1. repair/rebuild it (skip this idea)
2. replace the cooling unit (price out parts AND labor)
3. get an entirely NEW rv fridge/freezer unit
often option #2 is close to the price of #3, so folks just buy a new one.
we've got no details in the o.p. like positioning, maintenance, hours left BLOCKED and so on...
once these things have been plugged up and heating awhile replacement is probably the best solution...
but many fridges have been saved for more years of use by beating, flipping upside down and other gyrations...