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Old 09-28-2016, 02:30 PM   #1
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Refrig in battery disconnect mode

Dometic refrig works fine, but when I am plugged to Electric power and switch my battery disconnect to Store mode, refrig led lights go on and off and refrig shuts down. It did not used to matter which position battery disconnect switch was in. All works fine in Use position and 12v lights, etc work fine when plugged in to AC and battery disconnect switch is in Store position. 2011 FC , Dometic 3 way frig, Parallex 7355 converter.... Thanks
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Old 09-28-2016, 02:39 PM   #2
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Sounds like a faulty battery disconnect relay, switch, or loose or corroded wire connections on them. I would start with the relay, probably located near the batteries.
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Old 09-29-2016, 08:45 AM   #3
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Talked with local service dept and they told me that the battery diconnect switch must be in Use position to run the refrig on AC current. That is fine, but I am just surprised that in 5 years I have never tried to put battery disc switch in Store while using refrig on AC power.
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Old 09-29-2016, 09:01 AM   #4
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We put ours in STORE position always when on external power and everything works fine. It just isolates the batteries from the trailer electrical system, and our factory solar keeps the batteries charged.

If you haven't used it in five years, try flipping the Battery Disconnect Switch on and off several times, maybe the relay is sticking or the switch contacts have something on them. Our's stuck once a few years ago but has worked fine since.
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Old 09-29-2016, 10:43 AM   #5
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Why would you turn the batteries off while plugged in to shore power? The batteries not only supply the 12 volt power required for the control board in the frig but they act as a regulator on the 12 volt output of the convertor.

In the past you were running off the convertor while the switch wa turned off. I would check the out put of the convertor, while the switch is turned off, to make sure it is still working
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Old 09-29-2016, 11:13 AM   #6
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We have been disconnecting the batteries from the electrical system to protect them from the single-stage factory converter/charger. The factory converter regulates the voltage and is a very good power supply, it's the single-stage charger section that overcharges and ruins batteries.

This year we finally replaced the factory unit with a multi-stage charger so no need to use the Battery Disconnect for this purpose.
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Old 09-29-2016, 11:25 AM   #7
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It is ashamed that is this period of technological advancement we have to pay for the right to manage substandard products.
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Old 09-29-2016, 11:33 AM   #8
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Your right on the mark Howie. Airstream (and others) tend to provide the most basic accessories to hold the price down and provide maximum profits. They need to do both to stay in business.

The factory charger/converter will work fine for routine weekend travel and vacations. The batteries run down, and they get charged up again. Little damage in this continuous cycle. It's when the trailer is left plugged in for long periods at an RV site or at home where the battery damage occurs.
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Old 09-29-2016, 11:36 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
We have been disconnecting the batteries from the electrical system to protect them from the single-stage factory converter/charger. The factory converter regulates the voltage and is a very good power supply, it's the single-stage charger section that overcharges and ruins batteries.

This year we finally replaced the factory unit with a multi-stage charger so no need to use the Battery Disconnect for this purpose.
I do the same for the same reason.
I haven't replaced the converter yet as I'm still investigating what one to buy.
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Old 09-29-2016, 11:37 AM   #10
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It is ashamed that is this period of technological advancement we have to pay for the right to manage substandard products.
You are SO right!
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Old 09-29-2016, 12:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
We have been disconnecting the batteries from the electrical system to protect them from the single-stage factory converter/charger. The factory converter regulates the voltage and is a very good power supply, it's the single-stage charger section that overcharges and ruins batteries.

This year we finally replaced the factory unit with a multi-stage charger so no need to use the Battery Disconnect for this purpose.
Perhaps I misunderstand you but it appears you are saying that your (previous) converter was both a "very good power supply" yet it's a very-bad battery charger. That makes little sense to me. If it's a good unit, it'll do all it's jobs well. If it's a bad unit, throw it away and get a better one.

The battery should provide 12v to the refer for temp control.
The converter should do the same.
If either of them cannot do that, then the one that's not doing it is bad and needs repair or replacement.
In the case of the OP, it appears his converter is not supplying proper 12v to the refer when the battery is disconnected (In the strore mode). Check the fuse, the CB, the circuit, and the converter's 12v output, and rectify the failure.

And, Yes. The battery, when in the "use" mode, acts as a shock-absorber or as a large "capacitor" for the converter's 12v output, and if the converter regulates it's 12v accurately, the battery should not overcharge.

I keep my battery in "use" mode forever. It's a flooded cell unit and my converter is a 3-stage unit that does not boil the battery. I have no reason to isolate (store) a perfectly good battery being supported by a perfectly good converter/charger.
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Old 09-29-2016, 04:06 PM   #12
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Your right on the mark Howie. Airstream (and others) tend to provide the most basic accessories to hold the price down and provide maximum profits. They need to do both to stay in business.

The factory charger/converter will work fine for routine weekend travel and vacations. The batteries run down, and they get charged up again. Little damage in this continuous cycle. It's when the trailer is left plugged in for long periods at an RV site or at home where the battery damage occurs.
I always chime in on the Batt/converter/charger posts. Do so because I have the OEM 2012 single stage charger in our 2012 30 FC. I leave the battery disconnect switch in USE always. Ever now and then, I'll disconnect for a week to see what the (now) 5 year old Interstate 24s do. They hold a charge as good as new. I've only added a splash of water once in those years. I have a Bogart TM-2025-RV installed in the cabin, and it's always shown the batts brought to 13.8 then amps to a trickle to keep them there. Maybe I'm just lucky and have an exceptional Parallax 555 converter, but I wouldn't consider a multi stage unless I move away from the flooded cells.
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Old 09-29-2016, 05:10 PM   #13
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I checked the amperage draw on the batteries when everything is turned off and we have no shore power. Draw was .1 of an amp. With the master disconnect in the off position the draw is .01 amp. That draw was from the propane detector. My dealer noted that the refrigerator and water heater both have a control board draw even though they may be in the off position. Good to remember if you do lose battery power since that means the fridge and water heater will not operate on gas.

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Old 09-29-2016, 07:36 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by submirj View Post
Talked with local service dept and they told me that the battery diconnect switch must be in Use position to run the refrig on AC current. That is fine, but I am just surprised that in 5 years I have never tried to put battery disc switch in Store while using refrig on AC power.
The reason the tech told you to leave it in 'use' was to maintain operation on propane should the power quit. However......
I usually put the battery in 'store', when on AC. to prevent the battery from overcharging.
If the AC quits during use, the fridge is pretty good at maintaining it's temp for quite a while.
I'll leave it in 'use' when I replace the converter with whatever I find to buy. (still looking and open to suggestions.)
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