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09-28-2016, 02:30 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
2011 23' FB Flying Cloud
Augusta
, Kansas
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 51
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Refrig in battery disconnect mode
Dometic refrig works fine, but when I am plugged to Electric power and switch my battery disconnect to Store mode, refrig led lights go on and off and refrig shuts down. It did not used to matter which position battery disconnect switch was in. All works fine in Use position and 12v lights, etc work fine when plugged in to AC and battery disconnect switch is in Store position. 2011 FC , Dometic 3 way frig, Parallex 7355 converter.... Thanks
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09-28-2016, 02:39 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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Sounds like a faulty battery disconnect relay, switch, or loose or corroded wire connections on them. I would start with the relay, probably located near the batteries.
__________________
Doug and Cheryl
2012 FC RB, Michelin 16, ProPride 1400
2016 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab 4X4 Ecodiesel 3.92 axles
The Truth is More Important Than the Facts
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09-29-2016, 08:45 AM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
2011 23' FB Flying Cloud
Augusta
, Kansas
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 51
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Talked with local service dept and they told me that the battery diconnect switch must be in Use position to run the refrig on AC current. That is fine, but I am just surprised that in 5 years I have never tried to put battery disc switch in Store while using refrig on AC power.
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09-29-2016, 09:01 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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We put ours in STORE position always when on external power and everything works fine. It just isolates the batteries from the trailer electrical system, and our factory solar keeps the batteries charged.
If you haven't used it in five years, try flipping the Battery Disconnect Switch on and off several times, maybe the relay is sticking or the switch contacts have something on them. Our's stuck once a few years ago but has worked fine since.
__________________
Doug and Cheryl
2012 FC RB, Michelin 16, ProPride 1400
2016 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab 4X4 Ecodiesel 3.92 axles
The Truth is More Important Than the Facts
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09-29-2016, 10:43 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
Princeton
, New Jersey
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,070
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Why would you turn the batteries off while plugged in to shore power? The batteries not only supply the 12 volt power required for the control board in the frig but they act as a regulator on the 12 volt output of the convertor.
In the past you were running off the convertor while the switch wa turned off. I would check the out put of the convertor, while the switch is turned off, to make sure it is still working
__________________
WBCCI 12156 AIR 3144 WACHUNG TAC NJ6
2004 Excursion 4x4
1991 34 ft. Excella +220,000 miles, new laminated flooring, new upholstery, new 3200 lbs axles
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09-29-2016, 11:13 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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We have been disconnecting the batteries from the electrical system to protect them from the single-stage factory converter/charger. The factory converter regulates the voltage and is a very good power supply, it's the single-stage charger section that overcharges and ruins batteries.
This year we finally replaced the factory unit with a multi-stage charger so no need to use the Battery Disconnect for this purpose.
__________________
Doug and Cheryl
2012 FC RB, Michelin 16, ProPride 1400
2016 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab 4X4 Ecodiesel 3.92 axles
The Truth is More Important Than the Facts
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09-29-2016, 11:25 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
Princeton
, New Jersey
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,070
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It is ashamed that is this period of technological advancement we have to pay for the right to manage substandard products.
__________________
WBCCI 12156 AIR 3144 WACHUNG TAC NJ6
2004 Excursion 4x4
1991 34 ft. Excella +220,000 miles, new laminated flooring, new upholstery, new 3200 lbs axles
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09-29-2016, 11:33 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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Your right on the mark Howie. Airstream (and others) tend to provide the most basic accessories to hold the price down and provide maximum profits. They need to do both to stay in business.
The factory charger/converter will work fine for routine weekend travel and vacations. The batteries run down, and they get charged up again. Little damage in this continuous cycle. It's when the trailer is left plugged in for long periods at an RV site or at home where the battery damage occurs.
__________________
Doug and Cheryl
2012 FC RB, Michelin 16, ProPride 1400
2016 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab 4X4 Ecodiesel 3.92 axles
The Truth is More Important Than the Facts
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09-29-2016, 11:36 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2015 25' Flying Cloud
2016 30' Flying Cloud
Blenheim Ontario
, Ontario
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1,263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum
We have been disconnecting the batteries from the electrical system to protect them from the single-stage factory converter/charger. The factory converter regulates the voltage and is a very good power supply, it's the single-stage charger section that overcharges and ruins batteries.
This year we finally replaced the factory unit with a multi-stage charger so no need to use the Battery Disconnect for this purpose.
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I do the same for the same reason.
I haven't replaced the converter yet as I'm still investigating what one to buy.
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09-29-2016, 11:37 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2015 25' Flying Cloud
2016 30' Flying Cloud
Blenheim Ontario
, Ontario
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1,263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE
It is ashamed that is this period of technological advancement we have to pay for the right to manage substandard products.
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You are SO right!
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09-29-2016, 12:03 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2008 22' Safari
Spicewood (W of Austin)
, Texas
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum
We have been disconnecting the batteries from the electrical system to protect them from the single-stage factory converter/charger. The factory converter regulates the voltage and is a very good power supply, it's the single-stage charger section that overcharges and ruins batteries.
This year we finally replaced the factory unit with a multi-stage charger so no need to use the Battery Disconnect for this purpose.
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Perhaps I misunderstand you but it appears you are saying that your (previous) converter was both a "very good power supply" yet it's a very-bad battery charger. That makes little sense to me. If it's a good unit, it'll do all it's jobs well. If it's a bad unit, throw it away and get a better one.
The battery should provide 12v to the refer for temp control.
The converter should do the same.
If either of them cannot do that, then the one that's not doing it is bad and needs repair or replacement.
In the case of the OP, it appears his converter is not supplying proper 12v to the refer when the battery is disconnected (In the strore mode). Check the fuse, the CB, the circuit, and the converter's 12v output, and rectify the failure.
And, Yes. The battery, when in the "use" mode, acts as a shock-absorber or as a large "capacitor" for the converter's 12v output, and if the converter regulates it's 12v accurately, the battery should not overcharge.
I keep my battery in "use" mode forever. It's a flooded cell unit and my converter is a 3-stage unit that does not boil the battery. I have no reason to isolate (store) a perfectly good battery being supported by a perfectly good converter/charger.
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09-29-2016, 04:06 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum
Your right on the mark Howie. Airstream (and others) tend to provide the most basic accessories to hold the price down and provide maximum profits. They need to do both to stay in business.
The factory charger/converter will work fine for routine weekend travel and vacations. The batteries run down, and they get charged up again. Little damage in this continuous cycle. It's when the trailer is left plugged in for long periods at an RV site or at home where the battery damage occurs.
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I always chime in on the Batt/converter/charger posts. Do so because I have the OEM 2012 single stage charger in our 2012 30 FC. I leave the battery disconnect switch in USE always. Ever now and then, I'll disconnect for a week to see what the (now) 5 year old Interstate 24s do. They hold a charge as good as new. I've only added a splash of water once in those years. I have a Bogart TM-2025-RV installed in the cabin, and it's always shown the batts brought to 13.8 then amps to a trickle to keep them there. Maybe I'm just lucky and have an exceptional Parallax 555 converter, but I wouldn't consider a multi stage unless I move away from the flooded cells.
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09-29-2016, 05:10 PM
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#13
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Moderator
2004 30' Classic Slideout
Fenton
, Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 10,412
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I checked the amperage draw on the batteries when everything is turned off and we have no shore power. Draw was .1 of an amp. With the master disconnect in the off position the draw is .01 amp. That draw was from the propane detector. My dealer noted that the refrigerator and water heater both have a control board draw even though they may be in the off position. Good to remember if you do lose battery power since that means the fridge and water heater will not operate on gas.
Jack
__________________
Jack Canavera
STL Mo.
AIR #56 S/OS#15
'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500
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09-29-2016, 07:36 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
2015 25' Flying Cloud
2016 30' Flying Cloud
Blenheim Ontario
, Ontario
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1,263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by submirj
Talked with local service dept and they told me that the battery diconnect switch must be in Use position to run the refrig on AC current. That is fine, but I am just surprised that in 5 years I have never tried to put battery disc switch in Store while using refrig on AC power.
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The reason the tech told you to leave it in 'use' was to maintain operation on propane should the power quit. However......
I usually put the battery in 'store', when on AC. to prevent the battery from overcharging.
If the AC quits during use, the fridge is pretty good at maintaining it's temp for quite a while.
I'll leave it in 'use' when I replace the converter with whatever I find to buy. (still looking and open to suggestions.)
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09-29-2016, 08:24 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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The factory converter has worked well for us in 1200 days camping, often on extended external power. It provides excellent power to our 12v system but the single stage charger can overcharge our batteries. Or so the forum (usually) tells us.
So we disconnect it with the switch and let the factory solar maintain the batteries. It's not the best charger either, but does turn itself off when the batteries reach (near) full charge. The converter/charger does not shut off, it just keeps on charging at full voltage.
I replaced the factory converter/charger because we upgraded our battery and solar system and my aging mind may forget the switching routine of the Battery Disconnect Switch. I don't want to damage these expensive new batteries, or break camp for travel with no 12 vdc to the fridge.
__________________
Doug and Cheryl
2012 FC RB, Michelin 16, ProPride 1400
2016 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab 4X4 Ecodiesel 3.92 axles
The Truth is More Important Than the Facts
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10-01-2016, 10:38 AM
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#16
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2 Rivet Member
2011 23' FB Flying Cloud
Augusta
, Kansas
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 51
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First, "Thank you" to all who helped me resolve my power problem.
This all started while camping and plugged in to shore power. My 2 month old batteries tested good to begin our outing., but I was concerned of overcharging the batteries so I switched battery disconnect to Store.... When I did that the frig led's blinked slowly and then shut down. Switched back to Use position and all seemed fine. I was concerned that there was a problem with the battery disconnect switch. I ran everything for a couple days and when I got home to voltage tester I did some testing of the batteries and converter (Parallex 7355) . I disconnected the batteries and tested them 10.7 V..... Checked power from converter (9v) so with all the concerns about overcharging, my problem was undercharging. The one thing I can share is that when I first started having problems, plugged in to shore power, I noticed that the battery monitor was just measuring about 50% instead of it's usual being pegged. Easy to understand now, but not so much then.
I've got my batteries diconnected now and on a battery tender in hopes that they are not damaged for the day that they were discharged. I ordered a cover er replacement (PD4655) and I hope all is well after I get the battery charged up and the converter replaced.
So if you don't have your volt meter handy and you start having unusual power problems.... Check your monitor board and make sure you are pegging the reading while on shore power.
Thanks again for all your help.
Technically challenged, but happy camper.
Submirj
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