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Old 03-04-2014, 09:55 AM   #99
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The elbows came from either Home Depot or a hardware store, I don't recall now. The temp sensor on mine is bolted to the refrigerator tube and picks up it's temp from there, not generally the air temp of the compartment. Yours may be different. The main thing I wanted to do was to reduce the overall amount of heat in the upper compartment when running on propane (which I do mostly as I boondock a lot). With less heat there, the quiet fan can keep the temp in check much easier.

My exterior vent cover is metal. I am not sure how this would work with a plastic vent cover.
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Old 03-04-2014, 10:16 AM   #100
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When travelling, does your modification with the 3 inch tubing blow out the pilot flame at speed? Assuming you travel with the fridge on.
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Old 03-04-2014, 10:22 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by idroba View Post
The elbows came from either Home Depot or a hardware store, I don't recall now. The temp sensor on mine is bolted to the refrigerator tube and picks up it's temp from there, not generally the air temp of the compartment. Yours may be different. The main thing I wanted to do was to reduce the overall amount of heat in the upper compartment when running on propane (which I do mostly as I boondock a lot). With less heat there, the quiet fan can keep the temp in check much easier.

My exterior vent cover is metal. I am not sure how this would work with a plastic vent cover.
Kinda dark in there but yours looks similar to our Bambi, except ours might smaller/more cramped. Our sensor is screwed into the cooling fin, so anything that can be done to lower the temps of those fins is worth trying.

Got a Silenx fan on order, as well.
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Old 03-04-2014, 10:37 AM   #102
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Originally Posted by subfan1 View Post
When travelling, does your modification with the 3 inch tubing blow out the pilot flame at speed? Assuming you travel with the fridge on.
No pilot light or low flame level on my refrigerator, it is electronic ignition so the flame is either on or off. Yes, I travel with the refrigerator on.

My 2014 should be the same as your 2012 FC 20.
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Old 03-05-2014, 01:05 PM   #103
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Aluminator, you might want to check the original post of this thread, which addresses the question of "pulling" or "pushing" air. The OP's theory, which I used for my fan design, is that the OEM fan installation pulls air from the fins, our the top set of louvers, and right back in the bottom set of louvers, causing a short-cycling of hot air. (This has nothing to do with the fan noise -- it's more "And while I'm at it replacing my fan...")

There are 2 louvered doors on the side of the AS. The top door accesses the fan and fridge fins. The OP's design pulls the air from the bottom compartment -- the one that accesses the fridge circuit board, among other things. The fans then push air over the fins, and out the top louvers. The bottom louvers of the top door are sealed over so the air won't enter there again.

It's a bit more of of a project to install the fans this way, but I figured with the silenx fans I bought, which don't push a whole lot of air, any improvement in the air flow was worth it.
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Old 03-05-2014, 01:07 PM   #104
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Excuse me, I meant AlumiTATER!
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:58 AM   #105
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Excuse me, I meant AlumiTATER!
Thanks for those thoughts.....and I did notice most of these modifications were used in trailers which had both upper and lower cabinet vents.....

Guess I was just pondering in my particular application whether pushing or pulling would be most efficient. And I got some very interesting and educational responses....just as I expected from Forum readers! Thanks again. Tom
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Old 03-08-2014, 06:43 PM   #106
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Anyone know the CFM rating of the stock fan? (don't think it's been posted yet; sorry if I've missed it) Found a spec sheet of the FP-108 that looks like mine but gives three different versions- 60, 80, and 105 CFM: DC Brushless Fan FP-108/DC, DC fan volume, DC brushless fan speed, DC fan noise level

Just installed the 74 CFM Silenx 15dba w/red blades and it's sooo quiet. But don't think it's moving as much air as the stock fan (105 CFM perhaps??).
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Old 03-09-2014, 08:50 AM   #107
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I have another question....does anyone know a source for the thermal switch which turns the fan on and off as the temp rises in the coolant line?
Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-09-2014, 09:37 AM   #108
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Originally Posted by idroba View Post
No pilot light or low flame level on my refrigerator, it is electronic ignition so the flame is either on or off. Yes, I travel with the refrigerator on.

My 2014 should be the same as your 2012 FC 20.

Idroba, I'm going to install the 3 inch ducting on mine, I do have another question. How did you secure the ducting to the boiler tube? I see how you secured the outer part.
Thx
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Old 03-09-2014, 10:14 AM   #109
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Idroba, I'm going to install the 3 inch ducting on mine, I do have another question. How did you secure the ducting to the boiler tube? I see how you secured the outer part.
Thx
There is no connection to the boiler tube at all. The one strap you see in the photo holds the very light weight aluminum in place. The vent tube just rests on the top of the boiler, with the boiler tube off to one side and open to air from the remainder of the vent. As mentioned in my post, I wanted it to be larger than the boiler vent so additional air could come in the bottom and mix with the heat/gasses to cool them some. That way they would not be so hot when reaching the external vent on the side of the rig. When operating on propane, the gasses from the top of the boiler are very hot. Also, the external vent cover has a screen and slots in it, and the larger vent tube has a better chance of hitting an outlet area.

The one little strap you see has held things in place for about 7000 miles now, the amount I drove last season.

My first trial was with lightweight flex tube, but that did not work out as I could not find a way to hold it in place. The double elbows can be turned and twisted to fit right. I had to remove one or two sections as I recall, to make the length correct. It took some fiddling around.
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Old 03-09-2014, 03:31 PM   #110
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Anyone know the CFM rating of the stock fan? (don't think it's been posted yet; sorry if I've missed it) Found a spec sheet of the FP-108 that looks like mine but gives three different versions- 60, 80, and 105 CFM: DC Brushless Fan FP-108/DC, DC fan volume, DC brushless fan speed, DC fan noise level

Just installed the 74 CFM Silenx 15dba w/red blades and it's sooo quiet. But don't think it's moving as much air as the stock fan (105 CFM perhaps??).
On my Norcold 1200, there were 2 OEM fans, 120 CFM each IIRC.
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Old 03-09-2014, 09:39 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by Skooter View Post
Anyone know the CFM rating of the stock fan? (don't think it's been posted yet; sorry if I've missed it) Found a spec sheet of the FP-108 that looks like mine but gives three different versions- 60, 80, and 105 CFM: DC Brushless Fan FP-108/DC, DC fan volume, DC brushless fan speed, DC fan noise level

Just installed the 74 CFM Silenx 15dba w/red blades and it's sooo quiet. But don't think it's moving as much air as the stock fan (105 CFM perhaps??).
I'd love to know the answer to this also. My Bambi came with 1 OEM fan, which I replaced with 2 44cfm SilenX fans. Hope I'm pushing enough air come hot weather! Not sure what to expect if I'm not...
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Old 04-22-2014, 11:40 AM   #112
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Originally Posted by idroba View Post
There is no connection to the boiler tube at all. The one strap you see in the photo holds the very light weight aluminum in place. The vent tube just rests on the top of the boiler, with the boiler tube off to one side and open to air from the remainder of the vent. As mentioned in my post, I wanted it to be larger than the boiler vent so additional air could come in the bottom and mix with the heat/gasses to cool them some. That way they would not be so hot when reaching the external vent on the side of the rig. When operating on propane, the gasses from the top of the boiler are very hot. Also, the external vent cover has a screen and slots in it, and the larger vent tube has a better chance of hitting an outlet area.

The one little strap you see has held things in place for about 7000 miles now, the amount I drove last season.

My first trial was with lightweight flex tube, but that did not work out as I could not find a way to hold it in place. The double elbows can be turned and twisted to fit right. I had to remove one or two sections as I recall, to make the length correct. It took some fiddling around.
PLEASE NOTE THIS UPDATE!! IMPORTANT NEW INFORMATION.

I want to post that in getting the FC out this week I noted a discolored spot on the upper refrigerator vent cover. It turns out that my direct venting of the boiler heat to the outside vent was/is hot enough to damage the clear coat on the vent cover.

So, anyone following in my footsteps needs to be aware of that possible disadvantage. I don't intend to change my system but I sure don't want anyone else to do it not understanding what I have just now found.
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