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Old 08-07-2013, 09:24 PM   #85
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I am posting drawings and photos of our fan installation. We pretty much followed DTBW's design with some minor exceptions. We did not install a baffle, but instead siliconed some sheet metal into the lower 2 louvers of the door to prevent air coming in there (I included a photo -- use clear silicone, not orange like we did!). We also did not install a switch -- both fans run if they are running at all.
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Old 08-07-2013, 09:54 PM   #86
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Nyce!!! Thx 4 pix !!
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Old 08-08-2013, 01:49 AM   #87
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If there were only two wires I'd agree. However, I think these fans come with three wires - the third being some version of a on/off/tachometer sensor. Applying a voltage to this wire may cause problems.
Interesting. My SilenX fans only have two wires.
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:00 AM   #88
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Interesting. My SilenX fans only have two wires.
It may depend on the application for the original fan. Based on other experiences I've had in the fan world most DC fans can be produced with two or three wires. The third wire is typically a sensor wire and gives an indication of whether the fan is running. In my past experience DC fans came with color coded wires so it was obvious which wire to connect to + / - and which wire to ignore (the sensor wire). SilenX does not follow this convention - maybe trying to keep cost low.

I purchased my SilenX fans at a computer store and they definitely had three wires - all black. Other posters here have indicated they had three wires on their fans too. Apparently some models come with two wires.
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:09 AM   #89
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I just installed one replacement Silenex fan in my 2013 Int Sig 23d. It was the 120mm x 25mm 15db and flows 74cfm. on Amazon it has the black frame with the red blades $7.99 + ship. It came with 3 black wires...pretty easy to tell the sensor wire and 2 of the wires go from 1 plug (to the 3 pin mother board connector) to the other std 4 pin power supply connector that used only 2 of the pins in the connector. I cut the single black wire that goes to the sensor plug then cut the other two that go to the power connector. I then used a 1 amp battery charger and by touching the aligator clips and watching the rotation of the blade figured which one needs to go to the red wire and which one goes to the blue wire. The original fan on my trailer is 38mm thick so I made 2 .5 inch aluminum spacers to set the fan on the door side of the bracket and connected the wires to the proper red/blue wires on the trailer and job done 20 minutes +/-...fan is less then half as loud and time will tell if it moves enough air up here in the northwest...can easily add another with a piece of aluminum and a 2nd fan in parallel if needed in hotter climate...I do think 1 will do the job though. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:25 PM   #90
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Great info. Thanks.
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:39 PM   #91
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I just installed one replacement Silenex fan in my 2013 Int Sig 23d. It was the 120mm x 25mm 15db and flows 74cfm. on Amazon it has the black frame with the red blades $7.99 + ship. It came with 3 black wires...pretty easy to tell the sensor wire and 2 of the wires go from 1 plug (to the 3 pin mother board connector) to the other std 4 pin power supply connector that used only 2 of the pins in the connector. I cut the single black wire that goes to the sensor plug then cut the other two that go to the power connector. I then used a 1 amp battery charger and by touching the aligator clips and watching the rotation of the blade figured which one needs to go to the red wire and which one goes to the blue wire. The original fan on my trailer is 38mm thick so I made 2 .5 inch aluminum spacers to set the fan on the door side of the bracket and connected the wires to the proper red/blue wires on the trailer and job done 20 minutes +/-...fan is less then half as loud and time will tell if it moves enough air up here in the northwest...can easily add another with a piece of aluminum and a 2nd fan in parallel if needed in hotter climate...I do think 1 will do the job though. Hope this helps.
Any pics?
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Old 09-14-2013, 07:05 PM   #92
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Here are a couple three..
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Old 09-14-2013, 07:26 PM   #93
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Thought I would clarify the wiring description

There are 3 black wires coming off the the fan assy. These 3 go to a small plug that is designed to plug in on a computer motherboard. There are then 2 short wires that come off that plug that go to a larger plug that is designed to plug into the power supply on a computer and that plug has a spot for 4 pins but only 2 of those spots are used by these two wires. The 3 rd wire on the smaller plug, the one that doesn't go to the other plug is the sensor wire. Cut that one and tape it over as it will not be used. The other 2 are the fan power wires. Now cut the other 2 and that is when you hook them up to the batt charger or a 12 volt power source that you know which is + and which is - Verify rotation of the blade is drawing air outward and hook up red to the + side and - goes to the blue wire and bolt it up. Good to go
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Old 03-03-2014, 12:04 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rrroberts40 View Post
Thought I would clarify the wiring description

There are 3 black wires coming off the the fan assy. These 3 go to a small plug that is designed to plug in on a computer motherboard. There are then 2 short wires that come off that plug that go to a larger plug that is designed to plug into the power supply on a computer and that plug has a spot for 4 pins but only 2 of those spots are used by these two wires. The 3 rd wire on the smaller plug, the one that doesn't go to the other plug is the sensor wire. Cut that one and tape it over as it will not be used. The other 2 are the fan power wires. Now cut the other 2 and that is when you hook them up to the batt charger or a 12 volt power source that you know which is + and which is - Verify rotation of the blade is drawing air outward and hook up red to the + side and - goes to the blue wire and bolt it up. Good to go
This thread is very helpful. I am installing the same fan in my 07 25' Safari and following your instructions.

I have a question though. It would appear all these installations have the fan pulling air outward....meaning from the cabinet out....and I was wondering if it might not cool the unit down more if the fan were reversed and pushing outside air into the cabinet.....any thoughts?

I should clarify my Safari has a single intake register on the side of the trailer, and the fan is located just inside this register. Hot air is vented out a vent on the top of the trailer.

Appreciate your observations.
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Old 03-03-2014, 12:23 PM   #95
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This thread is very helpful. I am installing the same fan in my 07 25' Safari and following your instructions.

I have a question though. It would appear all these installations have the fan pulling air outward....meaning from the cabinet out....and I was wondering if it might not cool the unit down more if the fan were reversed and pushing outside air into the cabinet.....any thoughts? Appreciate your observations.
In a previous life I designed many cooling systems using small fans such as the ones mentioned in this thread. In general, pushing air in or pulling air out result in the same performance. There are some reasons to do one versus the other but I don't think those factors apply here.

What does apply in this situation is the idea of a plenum to distribute the air to (or from) the fan to the space that is being cooled. The fan shown in the pictures above is not much different that simply placing a fan on a table in a large room. Yes, the fan moves air but is it moving air where you need air to be moved? The fan shown may be moving some of the same air over and over as the air "short circuits" to the path of least resistance. The fan would be more effective if it were clearly placed at the inlet or exhaust and a shroud was incorporated to ensure all the air entering (or leaving) the fan was directed into the cavity that is intended to be cooled.

In addition, the fan as placed in the picture is within an inch of so of the louvered door. In this application there are insufficient louvers at the fan exhaust for the intended air flow. That means the fan has added resistance because it is practically dead-headed against the door and there is not a clear path for the air to exhaust the cavity.

One way to check for this is to use a small wisp of toilet paper or other form of streamer to see where there is air movement. You want air movement clearly at the entry and exit to the refrigerator cooling cabinet. You want to minimize turbulent/chaotic air flow near the fan.
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Old 03-03-2014, 12:56 PM   #96
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One additional thing you can do with the side vented, fan assisted refrigerator system is to take a good portion of the heat load out of the cabinet area by
directing the boiler tube heat to the screened door vent. Most of this heat comes from the burner flame when the refrigerator is operated on Propane.

This is what I did with mine (see photo). I got two 3" aluminum elbows and fit one end over the top of the boiler vent tube and angled and cut them so the outlet comes right behind the outer vent door, when it is closed. I used a larger tube than the boiler vent so additional air can come in the bottom, and mix with the boiler heat and gasses and cool them down some so they are not as hot when they exit the upper end (which you can see in the photo). There is also very low restriction to the boiler gasses with a larger vent tube.

The net result is that now the upper cabinet heat is vastly reduced when the refrigerator is on propane, so much less has to be removed with the fan. The system worked very well last summer, even on the hottest days.
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Old 03-04-2014, 06:32 AM   #97
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Refrigerator fan

Thanks for your thoughts on fan placement. You have given me some ideas to chew on.

To refine the installation on mine, I placed a rubber washer between the two pieces of angle aluminum mounting pieces to further insulate against vibration or noise. May have not been necessary, but after installation you can stand right next to the fan and not hear it when it is operating. Much improved.
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Old 03-04-2014, 08:48 AM   #98
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One additional thing you can do with the side vented, fan assisted refrigerator system is to take a good portion of the heat load out of the cabinet area by
directing the boiler tube heat to the screened door vent. Most of this heat comes from the burner flame when the refrigerator is operated on Propane.

This is what I did with mine (see photo). I got two 3" aluminum elbows and fit one end over the top of the boiler vent tube and angled and cut them so the outlet comes right behind the outer vent door, when it is closed. I used a larger tube than the boiler vent so additional air can come in the bottom, and mix with the boiler heat and gasses and cool them down some so they are not as hot when they exit the upper end (which you can see in the photo). There is also very low restriction to the boiler gasses with a larger vent tube.

The net result is that now the upper cabinet heat is vastly reduced when the refrigerator is on propane, so much less has to be removed with the fan. The system worked very well last summer, even on the hottest days.
Where did you get the 3" elbows? Seeing as how the boiler tube sends heat directly towards the temp sensor, the elbow would seem to be the perfect solution. As long as the heat doesn't melt my plastic vent covers!
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