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Old 11-27-2012, 11:53 AM   #71
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Is anyone still monitoring this thread...? I just did the Silenx install myself on my 2008 Safari Sport 17. I bought the Effizio 120 model, and as previously noted in this thread, it does not have color-coded wires, but I Google Imaged the connector, and using that figured out which wire was which (I think.) I cut the in-place wires and spliced in the Silenx. Nothing happened. To test it, I reconnected the OEM fan, and now it doesn't run either. I've tried turning the fridge off and on, and resetting the breaker, but still nothing. Help...!
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:41 PM   #72
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At least on my Bambi, there is an inline fuse near the fan location. You may have inadvertently shorted the hot wire which would have instantly blown the fuse. You simply twist open the inline fuse holder and replace the fuse. If you don't find the inline fuse, then Airstream may have deleted it and opted to rely on the fuses located in the power panel inside the Airstream. You will have to check each of those (remove and use an ohmmeter as visual checking can be deceiving). If no fuses are blown and you have verified that there is no 12V present at the fan location, then I really don't have any suggestions. Good Luck and BTW, other than having to replace the DPDT switch about a year ago and the thermodisc a year or so earlier, my silenx fan mod is still performing perfectly.

As an update to what I did with the noisy stove exhaust fan, I yanked the whole thing out and put in one of the Italian exhaust fans that Airstream started using in the CCDs a few years ago. Much quieter and a lot nicer looking.
david
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:10 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by Lvnthestream View Post
Is anyone still monitoring this thread...? I just did the Silenx install myself on my 2008 Safari Sport 17. I bought the Effizio 120 model, and as previously noted in this thread, it does not have color-coded wires, but I Google Imaged the connector, and using that figured out which wire was which (I think.) I cut the in-place wires and spliced in the Silenx. Nothing happened. To test it, I reconnected the OEM fan, and now it doesn't run either. I've tried turning the fridge off and on, and resetting the breaker, but still nothing. Help...!
When I did mine I blew the glass fuse on the fridge's circuit board. The fuse looked ok but my continuity tester indicated that it was blown.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:37 AM   #74
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Uhhhh, there's a temperature sensor on the coolant lines that does not allow the fan to come on until the coolant reaches a high enough temperature. So, just turning your fridge on for a second to see if the fan comes on will not work - it has to be on for a while for the fridge coolant to heat the lines - the thermocouple should be attached at a high point on the fridge coolant lines and inline wiring to the fan.
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:01 AM   #75
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Thanks all for your quick responses.

clancy, I am admittedly a newbie, but not THAT unaware (though some of my upcoming followup questions may only reinforce your views to the contrary.)

BobRay and dtbw, I replaced all three fuses (even though none of them appeared to have blown,) and that didn't help. Understanding that I need to go back to first principles, I have a couple of follow-up questions:

1. Can I confirm that both fans still work by touching the leads to the posts of the trailer battery (or even better a Duracell 9V?) If not, is there another way?

2. Can I test the circuit by using one of those cheap little testers with the two leads and an LED lamp, or do I need to get a multi-meter (and then learn how to work it?)

Thanks again.
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:18 PM   #76
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Hey Lvn
It's been awhile since you posted, but I wondered if you solved the issue with your fans. We have installed the same Effizio 120 mm fans, ran for a second but now won't run. Original fan won't run. Have let the fridge run awhile and plenty hot, enough to trip the thermocoupler.

Have checked the 1 amp fuse by the fans and the inside fuses in the fuse box.

Did you find a cause/solution?

Thanks

Caroline
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:02 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by Lvnthestream View Post
Thanks all for your quick responses.

clancy, I am admittedly a newbie, but not THAT unaware (though some of my upcoming followup questions may only reinforce your views to the contrary.)

BobRay and dtbw, I replaced all three fuses (even though none of them appeared to have blown,) and that didn't help. Understanding that I need to go back to first principles, I have a couple of follow-up questions:

1. Can I confirm that both fans still work by touching the leads to the posts of the trailer battery (or even better a Duracell 9V?) If not, is there another way?

2. Can I test the circuit by using one of those cheap little testers with the two leads and an LED lamp, or do I need to get a multi-meter (and then learn how to work it?)

Thanks again.
You can check if the fans are operational by connecting leads to a D battery if I recall correctly.
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:55 AM   #78
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Hey Lvn
It's been awhile since you posted, but I wondered if you solved the issue with your fans. We have installed the same Effizio 120 mm fans, ran for a second but now won't run. Original fan won't run. Have let the fridge run awhile and plenty hot, enough to trip the thermocoupler.

Have checked the 1 amp fuse by the fans and the inside fuses in the fuse box.

Did you find a cause/solution?

Thanks

Caroline
Hi Caroline. To the best of my knowledge, they are working now, but they're SO quiet, it's hard to tell! After I installed them, I had a very similar experience to you (they would spin for a couple of seconds, then stop.) I just used my finger and manually gave them a 'boost' to get them started. After doing this a couple of times, they started running on their own. I haven't checked in a while, but I assume they're still working fine, as I spent a couple months in 90+ degree weather and never had any issues keeping things cold. Good luck - why Airstream doesn't install quiter fans is very frustrating...
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:16 PM   #79
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Thanks for the reply! So an update: The 1amp fuse was blown. Once replaced, fan #1 purred along brilliantly! I was able to figure out the wiring for fan #1 (Silenex Effizio 120mm 12db 44cfm, wires NOT color coded) because two wires were alike and one was different. On my second fan, same make and model, bought at the same time, the wires are indistinguishable. So I am having trouble getting a second fan to work in parallel -- either doesn't run or blows the fuse, depending on what blind combination I am trying. Short of buying a pocket full of fuses and experimenting, any advice?
Thanks! Caroline
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Old 07-29-2013, 03:22 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by Lvnthestream View Post
Thanks all for your quick responses.
1. Can I confirm that both fans still work by touching the leads to the posts of the trailer battery (or even better a Duracell 9V?) If not, is there another way?

2. Can I test the circuit by using one of those cheap little testers with the two leads and an LED lamp, or do I need to get a multi-meter (and then learn how to work it?)
Any 12V source should do.

If the fans work when you supply power, I'd suspect your thermal sensor. It should be clamped to one of the cooling tubes or on the end of the upper cooling fins. The fans don't come on until it closes, which should happen when the tubes heat up.

I'd first try just cleaning up the contacts. If that doesn't do it, you can try jumping across the contacts and see if the fans come on. If they do, the sensor is bad. In both cases, it's very easy to blow the fuse in the process, so either remove the 12V power or remove all the fuses before messing with it.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:24 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by Seecue View Post
Thanks for the reply! So an update: The 1amp fuse was blown. Once replaced, fan #1 purred along brilliantly! I was able to figure out the wiring for fan #1 (Silenex Effizio 120mm 12db 44cfm, wires NOT color coded) because two wires were alike and one was different. On my second fan, same make and model, bought at the same time, the wires are indistinguishable. So I am having trouble getting a second fan to work in parallel -- either doesn't run or blows the fuse, depending on what blind combination I am trying. Short of buying a pocket full of fuses and experimenting, any advice?
Thanks! Caroline
I should preface this by saying that anything electrical is NOT my forte, but from what I recall, I also had a fan with 3 indistinguishable wires feeding into a coupler. I did a Google image search for a cpu fan coupler diagram (or something along those lines) that allowed me to figure out which wire was which based on positioning into the coupler. That said, I think I still screwed it up initially (again, electrical not a key strength!), but eventually figured out my mistake.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:45 AM   #82
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I hooked up the second fan directly to the trailer battery, figured out the wiring, and got them both online without blowing the fuse.

Running like a dream! Wow what a difference! Thanks a million to DTBW for the smart re-design. Let's hope Aistream gets with the program.
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:49 AM   #83
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I hooked up the second fan directly to the trailer battery, figured out the wiring, and got them both online without blowing the fuse.

Running like a dream! Wow what a difference! Thanks a million to DTBW for the smart re-design. Let's hope Aistream gets with the program.
Because they are DC fans, hooking the wires up the wrong way shouldn't blow the fuse, but the fan will run backwards. Since the wires look the same, make sure the air is coming out the correct side (if they're accessible, you can hold a piece of thin paper up to the fan to see which way it's blowing).
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:15 PM   #84
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Because they are DC fans, hooking the wires up the wrong way shouldn't blow the fuse, but the fan will run backwards. Since the wires look the same, make sure the air is coming out the correct side (if they're accessible, you can hold a piece of thin paper up to the fan to see which way it's blowing).
If there were only two wires I'd agree. However, I think these fans come with three wires - the third being some version of a on/off/tachometer sensor. Applying a voltage to this wire may cause problems.
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