Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-29-2013, 09:24 AM   #81
1 Rivet Member
 
2008 16' Safari
Toronto , Ontario
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seecue View Post
Thanks for the reply! So an update: The 1amp fuse was blown. Once replaced, fan #1 purred along brilliantly! I was able to figure out the wiring for fan #1 (Silenex Effizio 120mm 12db 44cfm, wires NOT color coded) because two wires were alike and one was different. On my second fan, same make and model, bought at the same time, the wires are indistinguishable. So I am having trouble getting a second fan to work in parallel -- either doesn't run or blows the fuse, depending on what blind combination I am trying. Short of buying a pocket full of fuses and experimenting, any advice?
Thanks! Caroline
I should preface this by saying that anything electrical is NOT my forte, but from what I recall, I also had a fan with 3 indistinguishable wires feeding into a coupler. I did a Google image search for a cpu fan coupler diagram (or something along those lines) that allowed me to figure out which wire was which based on positioning into the coupler. That said, I think I still screwed it up initially (again, electrical not a key strength!), but eventually figured out my mistake.
Lvnthestream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2013, 09:45 AM   #82
2 Rivet Member
 
2013 16' Sport
Boulder , Colorado
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 83
I hooked up the second fan directly to the trailer battery, figured out the wiring, and got them both online without blowing the fuse.

Running like a dream! Wow what a difference! Thanks a million to DTBW for the smart re-design. Let's hope Aistream gets with the program.
Seecue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2013, 01:49 AM   #83
1 Rivet Member
 
Currently Looking...
Coon Rapids , Minnesota
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seecue View Post
I hooked up the second fan directly to the trailer battery, figured out the wiring, and got them both online without blowing the fuse.

Running like a dream! Wow what a difference! Thanks a million to DTBW for the smart re-design. Let's hope Aistream gets with the program.
Because they are DC fans, hooking the wires up the wrong way shouldn't blow the fuse, but the fan will run backwards. Since the wires look the same, make sure the air is coming out the correct side (if they're accessible, you can hold a piece of thin paper up to the fan to see which way it's blowing).
BobRay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2013, 07:15 PM   #84
Rivets?
 
nvestysly's Avatar

 
1992 29' Excella
2010 22' Interstate
Van By The River , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,363
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobRay View Post
Because they are DC fans, hooking the wires up the wrong way shouldn't blow the fuse, but the fan will run backwards. Since the wires look the same, make sure the air is coming out the correct side (if they're accessible, you can hold a piece of thin paper up to the fan to see which way it's blowing).
If there were only two wires I'd agree. However, I think these fans come with three wires - the third being some version of a on/off/tachometer sensor. Applying a voltage to this wire may cause problems.
__________________
Lucius and Danielle
1992 29' Excella Classic / 2010 Interstate
2005 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 8.1L
2018 GMC Sierra K1500 SLT, 6.2L, Max Trailering
Got a cooped-up feeling, gotta get out of town, got those Airstream campin' blues...
nvestysly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2013, 08:24 PM   #85
2 Rivet Member
 
2013 16' Sport
Boulder , Colorado
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 83
I am posting drawings and photos of our fan installation. We pretty much followed DTBW's design with some minor exceptions. We did not install a baffle, but instead siliconed some sheet metal into the lower 2 louvers of the door to prevent air coming in there (I included a photo -- use clear silicone, not orange like we did!). We also did not install a switch -- both fans run if they are running at all.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	fanassembly.jpg
Views:	328
Size:	186.0 KB
ID:	192663   Click image for larger version

Name:	assembly.JPG
Views:	288
Size:	169.9 KB
ID:	192664  

Click image for larger version

Name:	baffle.JPG
Views:	223
Size:	162.3 KB
ID:	192666  
Seecue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2013, 08:54 PM   #86
cwf
Rivet Master
 
cwf's Avatar
 
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6,406
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 2
Nyce!!! Thx 4 pix !!
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
cwf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 12:49 AM   #87
1 Rivet Member
 
Currently Looking...
Coon Rapids , Minnesota
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by nvestysly View Post
If there were only two wires I'd agree. However, I think these fans come with three wires - the third being some version of a on/off/tachometer sensor. Applying a voltage to this wire may cause problems.
Interesting. My SilenX fans only have two wires.
BobRay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2013, 06:00 AM   #88
Rivets?
 
nvestysly's Avatar

 
1992 29' Excella
2010 22' Interstate
Van By The River , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,363
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobRay View Post
Interesting. My SilenX fans only have two wires.
It may depend on the application for the original fan. Based on other experiences I've had in the fan world most DC fans can be produced with two or three wires. The third wire is typically a sensor wire and gives an indication of whether the fan is running. In my past experience DC fans came with color coded wires so it was obvious which wire to connect to + / - and which wire to ignore (the sensor wire). SilenX does not follow this convention - maybe trying to keep cost low.

I purchased my SilenX fans at a computer store and they definitely had three wires - all black. Other posters here have indicated they had three wires on their fans too. Apparently some models come with two wires.
__________________
Lucius and Danielle
1992 29' Excella Classic / 2010 Interstate
2005 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 8.1L
2018 GMC Sierra K1500 SLT, 6.2L, Max Trailering
Got a cooped-up feeling, gotta get out of town, got those Airstream campin' blues...
nvestysly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2013, 10:09 AM   #89
2013 Int. Sig 23D
 
2013 23' International
Des Moines , Washington
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 44
Images: 2
I just installed one replacement Silenex fan in my 2013 Int Sig 23d. It was the 120mm x 25mm 15db and flows 74cfm. on Amazon it has the black frame with the red blades $7.99 + ship. It came with 3 black wires...pretty easy to tell the sensor wire and 2 of the wires go from 1 plug (to the 3 pin mother board connector) to the other std 4 pin power supply connector that used only 2 of the pins in the connector. I cut the single black wire that goes to the sensor plug then cut the other two that go to the power connector. I then used a 1 amp battery charger and by touching the aligator clips and watching the rotation of the blade figured which one needs to go to the red wire and which one goes to the blue wire. The original fan on my trailer is 38mm thick so I made 2 .5 inch aluminum spacers to set the fan on the door side of the bracket and connected the wires to the proper red/blue wires on the trailer and job done 20 minutes +/-...fan is less then half as loud and time will tell if it moves enough air up here in the northwest...can easily add another with a piece of aluminum and a 2nd fan in parallel if needed in hotter climate...I do think 1 will do the job though. Hope this helps.
Rrroberts40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2013, 11:25 AM   #90
Rivet Master
 
interstateflyer's Avatar
 
2017 25' International
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Los Osos , California
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 916
Images: 7
Great info. Thanks.
__________________
2017 Airstream International Serenity 25FB
2016 RAM 2500 Crew Cab Cummins 6.7 Diesel
interstateflyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2013, 06:39 PM   #91
Rivet Master
 
2008 23' Safari FB SE
Boulder , Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 510
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rrroberts40 View Post
I just installed one replacement Silenex fan in my 2013 Int Sig 23d. It was the 120mm x 25mm 15db and flows 74cfm. on Amazon it has the black frame with the red blades $7.99 + ship. It came with 3 black wires...pretty easy to tell the sensor wire and 2 of the wires go from 1 plug (to the 3 pin mother board connector) to the other std 4 pin power supply connector that used only 2 of the pins in the connector. I cut the single black wire that goes to the sensor plug then cut the other two that go to the power connector. I then used a 1 amp battery charger and by touching the aligator clips and watching the rotation of the blade figured which one needs to go to the red wire and which one goes to the blue wire. The original fan on my trailer is 38mm thick so I made 2 .5 inch aluminum spacers to set the fan on the door side of the bracket and connected the wires to the proper red/blue wires on the trailer and job done 20 minutes +/-...fan is less then half as loud and time will tell if it moves enough air up here in the northwest...can easily add another with a piece of aluminum and a 2nd fan in parallel if needed in hotter climate...I do think 1 will do the job though. Hope this helps.
Any pics?
bonginator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2013, 06:05 PM   #92
2013 Int. Sig 23D
 
2013 23' International
Des Moines , Washington
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 44
Images: 2
Here are a couple three..
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-108216682.jpg
Views:	254
Size:	507.8 KB
ID:	195675   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2784740786.jpg
Views:	220
Size:	449.4 KB
ID:	195676  

Click image for larger version

Name:	image-1421261923.jpg
Views:	210
Size:	424.5 KB
ID:	195677  
Rrroberts40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2013, 06:26 PM   #93
2013 Int. Sig 23D
 
2013 23' International
Des Moines , Washington
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 44
Images: 2
Thought I would clarify the wiring description

There are 3 black wires coming off the the fan assy. These 3 go to a small plug that is designed to plug in on a computer motherboard. There are then 2 short wires that come off that plug that go to a larger plug that is designed to plug into the power supply on a computer and that plug has a spot for 4 pins but only 2 of those spots are used by these two wires. The 3 rd wire on the smaller plug, the one that doesn't go to the other plug is the sensor wire. Cut that one and tape it over as it will not be used. The other 2 are the fan power wires. Now cut the other 2 and that is when you hook them up to the batt charger or a 12 volt power source that you know which is + and which is - Verify rotation of the blade is drawing air outward and hook up red to the + side and - goes to the blue wire and bolt it up. Good to go
Rrroberts40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2014, 11:04 AM   #94
4 Rivet Member
 
Alumitater's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari
Fairhope , Alabama
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 302
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rrroberts40 View Post
Thought I would clarify the wiring description

There are 3 black wires coming off the the fan assy. These 3 go to a small plug that is designed to plug in on a computer motherboard. There are then 2 short wires that come off that plug that go to a larger plug that is designed to plug into the power supply on a computer and that plug has a spot for 4 pins but only 2 of those spots are used by these two wires. The 3 rd wire on the smaller plug, the one that doesn't go to the other plug is the sensor wire. Cut that one and tape it over as it will not be used. The other 2 are the fan power wires. Now cut the other 2 and that is when you hook them up to the batt charger or a 12 volt power source that you know which is + and which is - Verify rotation of the blade is drawing air outward and hook up red to the + side and - goes to the blue wire and bolt it up. Good to go
This thread is very helpful. I am installing the same fan in my 07 25' Safari and following your instructions.

I have a question though. It would appear all these installations have the fan pulling air outward....meaning from the cabinet out....and I was wondering if it might not cool the unit down more if the fan were reversed and pushing outside air into the cabinet.....any thoughts?

I should clarify my Safari has a single intake register on the side of the trailer, and the fan is located just inside this register. Hot air is vented out a vent on the top of the trailer.

Appreciate your observations.
__________________
Tom and Robin
2007 Safari 25' FB Twin
"If you have to go through a minefield....follow somebody"
Alumitater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2014, 11:23 AM   #95
Rivets?
 
nvestysly's Avatar

 
1992 29' Excella
2010 22' Interstate
Van By The River , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,363
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alumitater View Post
This thread is very helpful. I am installing the same fan in my 07 25' Safari and following your instructions.

I have a question though. It would appear all these installations have the fan pulling air outward....meaning from the cabinet out....and I was wondering if it might not cool the unit down more if the fan were reversed and pushing outside air into the cabinet.....any thoughts? Appreciate your observations.
In a previous life I designed many cooling systems using small fans such as the ones mentioned in this thread. In general, pushing air in or pulling air out result in the same performance. There are some reasons to do one versus the other but I don't think those factors apply here.

What does apply in this situation is the idea of a plenum to distribute the air to (or from) the fan to the space that is being cooled. The fan shown in the pictures above is not much different that simply placing a fan on a table in a large room. Yes, the fan moves air but is it moving air where you need air to be moved? The fan shown may be moving some of the same air over and over as the air "short circuits" to the path of least resistance. The fan would be more effective if it were clearly placed at the inlet or exhaust and a shroud was incorporated to ensure all the air entering (or leaving) the fan was directed into the cavity that is intended to be cooled.

In addition, the fan as placed in the picture is within an inch of so of the louvered door. In this application there are insufficient louvers at the fan exhaust for the intended air flow. That means the fan has added resistance because it is practically dead-headed against the door and there is not a clear path for the air to exhaust the cavity.

One way to check for this is to use a small wisp of toilet paper or other form of streamer to see where there is air movement. You want air movement clearly at the entry and exit to the refrigerator cooling cabinet. You want to minimize turbulent/chaotic air flow near the fan.
__________________
Lucius and Danielle
1992 29' Excella Classic / 2010 Interstate
2005 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 8.1L
2018 GMC Sierra K1500 SLT, 6.2L, Max Trailering
Got a cooped-up feeling, gotta get out of town, got those Airstream campin' blues...
nvestysly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2014, 11:56 AM   #96
Rivet Master
 
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
One additional thing you can do with the side vented, fan assisted refrigerator system is to take a good portion of the heat load out of the cabinet area by
directing the boiler tube heat to the screened door vent. Most of this heat comes from the burner flame when the refrigerator is operated on Propane.

This is what I did with mine (see photo). I got two 3" aluminum elbows and fit one end over the top of the boiler vent tube and angled and cut them so the outlet comes right behind the outer vent door, when it is closed. I used a larger tube than the boiler vent so additional air can come in the bottom, and mix with the boiler heat and gasses and cool them down some so they are not as hot when they exit the upper end (which you can see in the photo). There is also very low restriction to the boiler gasses with a larger vent tube.

The net result is that now the upper cabinet heat is vastly reduced when the refrigerator is on propane, so much less has to be removed with the fan. The system worked very well last summer, even on the hottest days.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	fan small.jpg
Views:	238
Size:	106.3 KB
ID:	206743  
idroba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 05:32 AM   #97
4 Rivet Member
 
Alumitater's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari
Fairhope , Alabama
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 302
Refrigerator fan

Thanks for your thoughts on fan placement. You have given me some ideas to chew on.

To refine the installation on mine, I placed a rubber washer between the two pieces of angle aluminum mounting pieces to further insulate against vibration or noise. May have not been necessary, but after installation you can stand right next to the fan and not hear it when it is operating. Much improved.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	CIMG5825.jpg
Views:	170
Size:	195.3 KB
ID:	206789  
__________________
Tom and Robin
2007 Safari 25' FB Twin
"If you have to go through a minefield....follow somebody"
Alumitater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 07:48 AM   #98
3 Rivet Member
 
2014 16' Sport
Route 66 , Arizona
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 162
Images: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by idroba View Post
One additional thing you can do with the side vented, fan assisted refrigerator system is to take a good portion of the heat load out of the cabinet area by
directing the boiler tube heat to the screened door vent. Most of this heat comes from the burner flame when the refrigerator is operated on Propane.

This is what I did with mine (see photo). I got two 3" aluminum elbows and fit one end over the top of the boiler vent tube and angled and cut them so the outlet comes right behind the outer vent door, when it is closed. I used a larger tube than the boiler vent so additional air can come in the bottom, and mix with the boiler heat and gasses and cool them down some so they are not as hot when they exit the upper end (which you can see in the photo). There is also very low restriction to the boiler gasses with a larger vent tube.

The net result is that now the upper cabinet heat is vastly reduced when the refrigerator is on propane, so much less has to be removed with the fan. The system worked very well last summer, even on the hottest days.
Where did you get the 3" elbows? Seeing as how the boiler tube sends heat directly towards the temp sensor, the elbow would seem to be the perfect solution. As long as the heat doesn't melt my plastic vent covers!
Skooter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 08:55 AM   #99
Rivet Master
 
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
The elbows came from either Home Depot or a hardware store, I don't recall now. The temp sensor on mine is bolted to the refrigerator tube and picks up it's temp from there, not generally the air temp of the compartment. Yours may be different. The main thing I wanted to do was to reduce the overall amount of heat in the upper compartment when running on propane (which I do mostly as I boondock a lot). With less heat there, the quiet fan can keep the temp in check much easier.

My exterior vent cover is metal. I am not sure how this would work with a plastic vent cover.
idroba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 09:16 AM   #100
Rivet Master
 
subfan1's Avatar
 
2019 23' International
La Habra , California
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,019
Images: 3
When travelling, does your modification with the 3 inch tubing blow out the pilot flame at speed? Assuming you travel with the fridge on.
subfan1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
noisy refrigerator fan Turtle 1997 - 2004 Bambi 9 06-03-2004 03:45 PM
Another Approach to Refrig Fan? wvmiller Refrigerators 2 04-10-2004 05:59 PM
Exhaust Fan Cat Roof Vents, Skylights & Fans 1 10-04-2002 10:44 PM
Recent Model Parts Books in PDF format thenewkid64 Link Archive 1 08-05-2002 01:29 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:36 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.