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Old 03-28-2016, 04:55 PM   #211
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The Silenx 7618 was $13.99 last night on Amazon FYI, with quantities limited so I ordered two.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._detailpages00

When I get around to installing it, I will report on the 20-Footers thread, as the Dometic configuration in our Flying Cloud 20' model may be unique. [link in earlier post]

Peter, I don't remember seeing your post. Did you ever get your installed. I received mine last week and am gathering my process and any pics. Rifrafult never posted his ( http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...-11811-14.html ) page 14 #186 for his 2004 16' sport although on the next page # 199 J Bean has a pretty complete series of pics, tho his is a 2016 16' sport.

I'm going over to Dave's...of radio instruction fame ; ) in a week+ and will have some first hand observations and a good Q & A opportunity. I'll probably start my fan install after that visit.

Off topic a bit but I saw a post this week on pump noise and was going to post my pics ( I'll be finished on Tuesday after I revisit the very hard to reach clamps just rear of the opening between the pump space and the rear compartment). I think two hose connections are doing a Buddy Rich on the diamond late and is he cause of much of my shuddddder. I haven't summerized yet so I'm not sure but will isolate/insulate assuming I can reach the screws to the clamps.


I was also going to post your initial the link to your intuitive.."Hear me...feel me" vibration discussion as I think you nailed it, but haven't been able to locate it on the 20's thread. Do you remember the post # or date or was that discussion elsewhere?

Bob
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Old 03-28-2016, 05:33 PM   #212
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Peter, I don't remember seeing your post. Did you ever get your installed.
. . .
My new fridge cooling fans are in the trailer waiting for their turn on the list. Life has been so busy, I may end up doing the one-for-one swap during a campground solo weekend in the next month or two, and save the second to be installed if needed in hot weather. Need to check if the wire and fuse will be enough for two. I think they are OK wattage-wise. Just need to make up a bracket for the second fan probably.

I will post on the 20-footer thread about the pump.

Peter
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Old 03-29-2016, 11:19 AM   #213
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We blocked the top vent completely to force the air to come in the bottom vent and cross the refrigerator cooling fins and exhaust out the top vent.
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Old 03-29-2016, 11:27 AM   #214
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We blocked the top vent completely to force the air to come in the bottom vent and cross the refrigerator cooling fins and exhaust out the top vent.
Switz, nice fabrication work.

Bob
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Old 03-29-2016, 02:19 PM   #215
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We blocked the top vent completely to force the air to come in the bottom vent and cross the refrigerator cooling fins and exhaust out the top vent.
Does this modification result in the fans running more often, particularly in cooler weather, or is there still enough free air flow through the 3 openings that natural convection (as you have channeled it nicely!) means that the fans don't have to run so often?

Did you run a heavier gauge wire back to the 12v panel, and use a beefier fuse, maybe?

Nicely done modification, and I can see that it might actually result in the fans running less often than the original single fan!

Thanks for the photos (incl. Post 201).

Peter
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Old 03-30-2016, 10:25 AM   #216
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The three fans together draw less than one amp. Not that my hearing is that good anymore, but I can only hear the fans when outside by the hatch. In theory, convection would create a chimney effect and air could rise from the coils and pull cooling air in from below. However, air, like water, takes the path of least resistance, so if the fans are not running some air may move depending on the ambient temps inside and outside of the space behind the refrigerator.

When we convert to the Vitrifrigo DP150i refrigerator, the Danfoss freon based compressor will need that positive rising air flow to get the heat away just like on the household refrigerator.

I put the power switch to the fans as I was unsure of their noise. They are so quiet the switch is not really necessary now, but the holes are in place....
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Old 03-30-2016, 10:57 AM   #217
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Thanks for the details and for the XM/Sirius reply also.

Peter
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Old 04-01-2016, 09:55 AM   #218
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The intermediate part from the XM/Sirius radio antenna to the audio head is available from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/SiriusXM-SXV30...ilpage_o05_s00
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Old 04-01-2016, 12:36 PM   #219
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We blocked the top vent completely to force the air to come in the bottom vent and cross the refrigerator cooling fins and exhaust out the top vent.
I understand the idea here but am still troubled with closing down the large ventilation hatch area to such small openings. My thinking is the entire compartment can get very warm and there is greater benefit to the natural flow of air provided by the large opening provided by the factory.

My greater complaint is the size of the louvered openings in the door. Realizing they provide rainy weather protection, they also inhibit the flow of air with a fan or not. In warm weather, especially if parked with the sun on the fridge side of the Airstream, we deploy the street side awning to keep the side cooler, and prop open the upper hatch (sometimes both hatches). If the automatic fan is running with the hatch closed, often just propping open the hatch will cause the fan to stop, indicating a cooler compartment.

We also replaced the noisy factory fan with a much quieter model.
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Old 04-01-2016, 12:45 PM   #220
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The "blocking" (plenum I believe is the correct word, I may be wrong) makes the fans more efficient. They draw the air up and out.

If the fans are running it is optimal to run that way.

If the fans are not running then the blocking will reduce the efficiency...

So, if you want max efficiency and have the amps available the blocking is the way to go.
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Old 04-01-2016, 01:00 PM   #221
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I'm skeptical, and concerned about compartment overheating in some scenario. We'll stay he course because our compartment cools well without the blocking, and usually without the amperage needed to keep the fan running.
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Old 04-01-2016, 01:15 PM   #222
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I'm skeptical, and concerned about compartment overheating in some scenario. We'll stay he course because our compartment cools well without the blocking, and usually without the amperage needed to keep the fan running.
Ditto!
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Old 04-01-2016, 11:39 PM   #223
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Thinking about this, as nice is the fab work by Switz, I think I Agree with Doug and Silvergate and will be going shroudless and a solo fan for now. (love the engineering on the door opener ) If I do add anther, I'll slide the one over and install side by side. Still not convinced of the optimal wiring hookup (parallel or series) which if I understand it is 2 @ 1/2 speed and thus quieter or 2 @ full speed and having to live with 18 DB...more the half of OEM #

I'm jumping into the install next week...time's a wastn'.


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Old 04-01-2016, 11:44 PM   #224
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...We also replaced the noisy factory fan with a much quieter model.

Doug, did you relocate the thermostat from the refer fins to the corner of the fan (if that's what I'm seeing) or was your OEM installed that way?

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