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Old 10-03-2015, 06:06 AM   #197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam View Post
I paid a few dollars more on Amazon the other day.

Unless things have changed since 2007, the 20' installation is the same.
Thanks.

The big issue on the FC20 IMO is that the coach's main entry door, when open and locked in place, is right over both exterior vent doors for the fridge, compromising air circulation, especially with the awning deployed. This also means that the top fridge vent door cannot be propped open to increase air flow (unless it is tipped all the way up to rest on the roof, where wind and gravity might cause it to fall down on top of the open main door).

I am thinking more than one fan may be needed, but will start with the one 7618 for now.

Is your door configuration similar? I think not . . . but would be interested in any suggestions you have. Thanks
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Old 10-03-2015, 08:03 AM   #198
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When we had a 20 I felt the open door and/or deployed awning could shade the fridge compartment from the sun, so the compartment did not need as much cooling because it did not get as hot.
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Old 11-16-2015, 05:34 AM   #199
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Just completed my fan upgrade. This Noctua is unbelievable. Completely silent from 10 inches away.
Just a quick reminder to my future self, don't get your fingers to close to the spinning factory fan, it will slice the skin off of the tip of your finger. :-/
Small note, the blue wire can be pulled out (or pushed out from underneath the sink to reveal the higher gauge white wire if you feel like reclamping on the higher gauge white wire.
I used a hair dryer on the sensor to trigger it on to test the fan.

Here are some pictures:










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Old 11-16-2015, 07:45 AM   #200
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I added one of those fans to my rig too. They are amazing.
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Old 11-16-2015, 08:35 AM   #201
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In Airstream models with the two hatches for cooling the refrigerator (no chimney), their solution of a single relatively loud fan mounted by the hatch with no baffling moves air only around the fan. There is no reason for air to come in the bottom hatch and thus little or no air movement happens on the coils.

We reworked the top hatch with three very quiet fans from Amazon on a on/off switch with the refrigerator thermostat running the fan as needed if the switch is on. We also blocked the hatch so the air has to come in through the bottom hatch and , because of the factory baffle, flow past the coils as it heads to the exhaust fans
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Old 11-16-2015, 09:05 AM   #202
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We also installed a quiet fan.

But I believe the tiny louvered openings on the refrigerator compartment doors are the greatest reason for poor air flow. I find that propping open the upper door (and putting out the steetside awning) will allow enough air flow to keep the compartment cooler most of the time, so even our new quiet fan seldom runs. When the summer sun is low and happens to be on that side of the Airstream, I might prop open both doors.

Another solution for these compartments getting too hot, even those with top venting, would be a door(s) with much, much larger louvers that are still able to keep out the wind blown rain and screened for insects.
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Old 11-27-2015, 11:59 PM   #203
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Fan Noise

I have the 2015 X 25' cloud. Yes the fan is 5 month old and getting louder.
So far I turn the frig down to low temp. 32 deg during the day and it reaches 32 late in the evening. 98 deg in Texas. At bed time I turn it up to the # 3 setting and it stays pretty quiet until I turn it back up to 32 in the morning.
The inside temp reaches about 42 for a short while.
This is not a fix but a patch. But is works and it is free.
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Old 11-28-2015, 07:22 AM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switz View Post
In Airstream models with the two hatches for cooling the refrigerator (no chimney), their solution of a single relatively loud fan mounted by the hatch with no baffling moves air only around the fan. There is no reason for air to come in the bottom hatch and thus little or no air movement happens on the coils.

We reworked the top hatch with three very quiet fans from Amazon on a on/off switch with the refrigerator thermostat running the fan as needed if the switch is on. We also blocked the hatch so the air has to come in through the bottom hatch and , because of the factory baffle, flow past the coils as it heads to the exhaust fans

This looks like one of the most thorough solutions I've seen posted on this thread. We have a "chimney" on our 1992 Classic but I still installed a very similar solution to the pictures you've shown. I wanted the air to pass directly over the coils so a baffle was needed. The three Silenex fans I used are very quiet and the baffle was not difficult to make using a few pieces of angle aluminum and sheet aluminum.

I agree, that simply having one, two or three fans blowing into open air is not very effective. It may do the job, and it may be more quiet than the original fan, but air is "short circuiting" around the fan(s).

To determine if the baffle is helpful one could experiment with a piece of cardboard first before taking time to use sheet metal. I suspect the efficiency will increase when the baffle is installed and the refrigerator could then be operated at a lower setting.
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Old 02-16-2016, 04:31 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Thanks eganwh for this post and the detailed earlier ones -- much appreciated. With cooler weather in the offing, a new fan may however move down the to-do list.


Peter, did you complete this mod or is i still down the to-do list? I didn't see it on the 20 ftr thread.

I too would like to stay with one. Seems some of the posts that have used 2 or more have opted for lower CFM rated fans than the 7618, possibly to get the db's down to 11 or 12. I have emailed RODALE (which bounced) for conf of CFM & db's as like Rifrafult in this thread indicated, I've also been unable to locate it on their website. Then too, there is the parallel or series decision. KISS...a solo swap IMO is the ticket.




Quote:
Originally Posted by rifrafult View Post
SeeMore - I tried to upload the 4 jpgs again, but same failed result. Will try again in a few days.


Rifrafult, Wow, great instructions, thanks! Were you ever able to upload pics? I wasnt able to either last year but that seems to have resolved itself.

[QUOTE=J_Bean;1710990]Just completed my fan upgrade. This Noctua is unbelievable. Completely silent from 10 inches away.]

J Bean, another wow how to.thanks.

I think I will order twoa 7618 and a lower cfm/db for the cabinet than holds he TV and the stereo equip. I presume Radio Shack etc can supply me with a small 110V>12V converter.

Thanks everyone for sharing all your work and guidance.


Bob
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Old 02-16-2016, 04:50 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
We also installed a quiet fan.

But I believe the tiny louvered openings on the refrigerator compartment doors are the greatest reason for poor air flow. I find that propping open the upper door (and putting out the steetside awning) will allow enough air flow to keep the compartment cooler most of the time, so even our new quiet fan seldom runs. d blown rain and screened for insects.
On out maiden voyage, I used a spare 6" section of foam pipe insulation (that I also use to prop open the kit window since it lacks the std mech.) and put it in the corner of the exterior hinge and opened the door. It kept the door out another inch or two and allowed for a bit better air flow to theh fan exhale. When not in use I slip it over the screen cross bar...when I remember to grab it.
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Old 02-16-2016, 08:24 PM   #207
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[snip]
Peter, did you complete this mod or is i still down the to-do list? I didn't see it on the 20 ftr thread.
[snip]
Bob
At the end of my post this morning on the 20-footer thread, I think I mentioned having the two new fans in the trailer to be installed maybe this summer. Will try one first, but may add the second per various posts on this and other threads.

BTW propping the exterior fridge door open does allow insects in, I think. The insect screening on the back of the louvers definitely reduces air flow. Any after-market replacement doors with better air flow?
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Old 02-16-2016, 11:29 PM   #208
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The factory fan in our 2014 23D is relatively quite when standing outside the trailer yet very noticeable on the inside. The dealer, at Airstream's request, installed a fan switch much like the one found on the 2013 19.

The switch is mounted on the wall in back of the TV and has a red light to indicate that it is switched on. The fan goes on when the thermostat activates it. We switch it off when we want silence or when sleeping. It goes on most often in the summer. The rest of the year we rarely hear it if the ambient temp is below 60-65 F.
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Old 02-17-2016, 12:22 AM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post

BTW propping the exterior fridge door open does allow insects in, I think. The insect screening on the back of the louvers definitely reduces air flow. Any after-market replacement doors with better air flow?
Actually it's not the fridge door it's the AS door hinge. The foam in the corner softly/gently keeps the door from opening 100% and latching...holds it @ about 95% open...short of latching but also closed enough that the wind doesn't swing it shut....about an in or two from the refer door. Seems to help. The biggest problem is forgetting it's there and it falling to the ground when closing the ASA door and blowing away.

Bob
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Old 02-17-2016, 01:38 PM   #210
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Actually it's not the fridge door it's the AS door hinge.
. . .
Bob
Gotcha, I missed that when you said it the first time. Thanks
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