Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-28-2015, 07:56 PM   #183
New Member
 
2014 16' Sport
Highland , Maryland
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 3
I completed an easy installation this past weekend of a new quieter fan in my 2014 Bambi Sport 16 following great guidance I learned from this forum thread. Thanks for the good ideas. My top requirements in attempting this were: 1) my new single fan (no doubles) must be quieter but have about as good or better air flow rate as the OEM fan version, and 2) installation must be quick and easy for a novice like myself and require no new mounting hardware or special plexiglass baffles or changes to air flow direction as suggested by some previous higher achievers. After installation, my new single fan is slightly audible inside the trailer as a low hum but much quieter than the loud drone of the old fan. Sleeping should be much improved!

Requirement #1. To satisfy this objective, I chose the Silenx IXP7618 Ixtrema 120mm computer fan with 18 dBA noise level and 90 CFM air flow which costs $19.99 on Amazon. It is the exact same physical size as my OEM version Rodale FP-108/DC, including the depth of 38 mm (i.e., no spacers needed like with the thinner Silenx EFX1215 that others have liked on this forum). The specific model of my existing stock OEM FP-108/DC 12V fan cannot be determined by the label on the fan, but it is either the S-1 (105 CFM flow rate) or S-2 (80 CFM) model. Comparing the specs of the OEM S-2 and my chosen Silenx fan, the Silenx IXP7618 has a somewhat better airflow of 90 CFM (vs. 80 for S-2), much lower noise level of 18 dBA (vs. 33 dBA for S-2), lower power consumption of 0.32 amps (vs. 0.45 amps for S-2), and lower spin rate of 1400 RPM (vs. 2500 RPM for S-2). The OEM S-1 has somewhat better flow rate (105 CFM) than the Silenx, but it has even worse specs than the S-2 with higher spin rate (3000 RPM) causing much more noise (45 dBA), and higher current draw (0.60 amps). So, regardless of which version is in the Sport 16, the Silenx beats them both in terms of lower noise while delivering nearly as good or better air flow at lower power….all with a single fan installation requiring no new special mounting hardware to add unnecessary complexity and time. Plus the Silenx weighs noticeably less, coming in at 5 oz. verses 9 oz. for the OEM. Compared to the popular Silenx EFX1215 with red fins that others in this forum have used, the Silenx IXP7618 delivers higher CFM (90) vs. 74 for the thinner EFX1215 model, so no need to install two of them to get back up to the baseline OEM rating for air flow.

The big unknown here is how durable the new Silenx fan is given that it’s a computer fan that will now be partially exposed to the outside environment behind the louvered cover….wind, dust, road spray, extreme heat or cold…more than it would normally have to endure in your home computer. Therefore I went ahead and bought two so I have a backup down the road when necessary. Let me guess that the OEM fan has better durability given that Airstream has continued to use them for many years despite numerous noise complaints.

In the upcoming Part 2 of this post that addresses Requirement #2, I’ll describe the detailed installation instructions and associated pictures of the Silenx IXP7618 in my Sport 16.
__________________

__________________
rifrafult is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2015, 11:32 PM   #184
New Member
 
Canton , Connecticut
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 4
Ready for Part 2. Looking forward to seeing the rest of your install rifrafult!
__________________

__________________
pedalmike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2015, 11:48 PM   #185
3 Rivet Member
 
Ron A's Avatar
 
2015 16' Sport
Huntsville , Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 242
Looking forward to part 2 & photos


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
__________________
Ron
Ron A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2015, 05:12 PM   #186
New Member
 
2014 16' Sport
Highland , Maryland
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 3
Installation of the Silenx IXP7618 frig exhaust fan in my 2014 Bambi Sport 16

Sorry for the delay. In my previous post on 7/28/15 I described the fan that I chose and why. Here I’ll describe details of the installation which I completed shortly before that post. Since then, I’ve been on two camping trips and validated that it works well and is much quieter than the Airstream OEM installation…just a gentle hum now and well worth the hour or so of installation. Note that I am not an electrician, but this stuff is pretty easy.

[The only problem I've had is trying to upload four jpg photos to this forum post to go with the instructions below. I tried uploading them (each less than 300 kb) from my computer using the Manage Attachments button at the bottom of the post screen under Additional Options, but I keep getting "upload of file failed" after multiple attempts. So I'll go ahead and post the instructions now and see if I can figure out the upload later...or if someone can provide me tips on uploading jpg photos.]

Step 1: Prep the refrigerator. Plug in your trailer to 120VAC shore power and turn on the frig. Let it run a few hours until you hear the outside exhaust fan kick on. Remove the top louvered vent cover for the frig compartment on the street side of the trailer. Now you can access the fan and top-back of the frig compartment to do the installation. See first picture for my Sport 16. The replacement fan is sitting temporarily in front of the OEM fan (both are same exact size…perspective makes the new fan in front look bigger, but it’s not). The new fan shell appears to be shiny metal but it’s just fancy plastic. The existing blue and red fan wires to the original fan go off to the right side of the compartment. More on that in Step 4.

Step 2: Prep the new Silenx IXP7618 fan. Cut off the first small white connector from the end of the fan wires and discard the additional larger dual-plug and wire that comes in the fan package and is supposed to attach to this small connector and into the computer motherboard. See top of the second picture for the fan parts to discard. There are 3 small braided wires (20 gauge?) in one clear wire casing coming from the fan that were previously connected to the left-most connector in the picture before I cut them off with a wire cutter. Only two of the three wires will be used here. My testing determined that the positive wire is the center wire of the 3, and one outside wire is the negative and the other is one that will not be used for our application. However since all these wires are the same clear color and not marked, you will need to strip the three ends and test which outer one is which using a 12V car battery and some alligator clips attached to two short lengths of spare test wire, noting that this fan will run only with + and – wires connected properly (fan will not run backwards when they are connected backwards…it doesn’t run at all, and nor did it damage the fan when I tested it backwards momentarily). Mark with colored markers which one is + and – when you figure it out, and fold back the third unused wire and tape it off with electrical tape. It’s important that you complete this testing and verification before proceeding to the next steps.

Step 3: Purchase two small female and one male spade-type connectors from a hardware store like shown at the bottom of the second picture (these 22-16 gauge connectors usually come in a pack and are pretty small). Female is on left, male is on right. Connect the two female connectors to the two wires from the fan. First pull off the plastic insulating cover of the connector using two pair of needle nose pliers pulling in opposite directions, slide the cover up over one of the fan wires, then place the end of the stripped wire in the connector end and crimp it closed tightly with pliers. Then solder the connection with a tiny bit of solder to make sure it stays connected with a good electrical contact. Slide the plastic cover back over the connector after it cools. Do this for both fan wires. The fan is now ready for installation. You could skip the use of these connectors and make all wire connections via soldering and heat-shrink tubes, but I did this so that in the future when I need to install a replacement fan, the job of disconnecting and reconnecting will be slightly easier.

Step 4: Understand the wires in the fan compartment by first examining the original installation. See third close-up picture in my 2014 Sport 16 (your setup may be slightly different). The mess of wires can be somewhat intimidating, but pull them out from the loop holder on the wall and follow them from start to end, and you’ll find it’s straightforward. You’ll see two wires coming from the fan, one red (+) and one blue (-), and two thicker wires coming in through a hole in the compartment wall on the right side, one pink (+) and one white (-). The red wire from the fan runs to a flat spade-type connector on the dime-size thermostat (center of picture) which is connected to one radiator fin on the back of the frig. A second red wire runs from the other side of the thermostat and connects through a labelled 1-amp black fuse holder to a thicker pink (+) input wire on the trailer using a blue connector (see upper right). This is the positive side of the circuit. The blue (-) wire from the fan connects directly via another blue connector to a thicker white (-) wire on the trailer (upper right). This is the negative side of the circuit. The pink and the white wires are the input power wires coming from the trailer’s electrical system. That’s all there is to it. Of course some other trailers might have slightly different setup with different colored wires, so adjust as necessary for your situation. If the refrigerator fin temperature is warm enough, the thermostat closes the previously-live circuit, and 12V DC power flows to the fan as a result (we want this thermostat closed and the fan running so we can test the live circuit, that’s why we turned on the frig in step 1 so it can get hot).

Step 5: Since the frig has been on for a while and is hot, the fan will be running which is a necessary condition for testing in the next steps. Now cut power to the trailer, both the battery and the 120VAC shore power cord, to avoid blowing a fuse due to potential carelessness in handling fan wires in this step. The fan will stop. Cut the blue fan wire a few inches from the blue connector that is connected to the thick white wire. Don’t cut the white wire or the blue connector itself…leave them alone. Now strip the end of the blue wire on the input side (not the fan side) and attach your remaining male spade-type connector to it using the same technique described above. Gently rock and pull the other existing female connector from the red fan wire off the thermostat’s male post. The fan is now disconnected on both ends.

Step 6: Remove the existing fan from the compartment by removing the two long screws holding the top edge of the fan to the existing mounting. Insert the new fan in the same place, making sure it points so the fan blows outward (label is facing you), and put the screws back in snuggly. Now plug the female connector on the fan’s positive wire into the thermostat male post. Plug the female connector from the fan’s negative wire into the male connector installed above in Step 5 that is attached to the blue (and white) input wire connector. Now you’re ready to power it up and test.

Step 7: Plug the shore power cord back in to the trailer or turn on the battery connect switch to power up the trailer’s electrical system (the battery alone can power the frig exhaust fan regardless if the frig is powered on or not). The fan should now come on and blow outward since you pre-heated the frig in Step 1 so the thermostat switch is closed. If not, either the frig is not pre-heated (thermostat is not closed) or you connected the wires up backwards. Try manually shorting across the two thermostat posts with a screw driver to test. If no luck, then you probably have the wires reversed (remember this fan will not run at all if the wires are connected backwards). Simply swap the two connectors and all should work fine if you successfully completed the testing in Step 2 previously. Note that some in this forum have additionally recommend adding rubber grommets between the existing fan mount and the trailer, but I have not found this to be worth the trouble as the new fan is lighter and has no imbalance problems that cause extra noise….but check to make sure the fan mount screws are snug….mine were slightly lose after two years of use.

Step 8: Cleanup. Make sure your wires are neatly arranged in the compartment in the loop hanger on the right compartment wall like when you started and not dangling around or touching the hot black pipe of the frig. The final photo shows what it should all look like when finished. Put the louvered cover back on and let it run for a while to convince you it’s working fine.

Step 9: Enjoy a good night’s sleep for all your work.
__________________
rifrafult is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 02:56 PM   #187
3 Rivet Member
 
2015 16' Sport
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 139
Wow. Took me longer to read that than it took me to do the mod
__________________
leedav is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 03:32 PM   #188
Rivet Puller
 
SeeMore's Avatar
 
2004 28' Safari S/O
Marietta , Georgia
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,065
Images: 3
I hope your usefulness and longevity experience exceeds mine with the Silenx fans. Mine have been in place about three years now without issue: cool even on the hottest of days and are not detectable in the coach.

Rifrafult - you were probably posting your pictures correctly. The site seems to have intermittent issue with uploads which is quite frustrating and leaves many believing they are at fault. Just try again later.
__________________
SeeMore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2015, 07:49 PM   #189
New Member
 
2014 16' Sport
Highland , Maryland
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 3
SeeMore - I tried to upload the 4 jpgs again, but same failed result. Will try again in a few days.
__________________
rifrafult is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2015, 05:16 AM   #190
Rivet Master

 
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Long Island , New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 3,011
Thanks for the guidance. I assume everyone is still happy with this simple Silenx solution? I will get an extra as suggested, as the Amazon price has gone down somewhat. The multi-fan solutions also look elegant, but not as easy to accomplish . . . TBD.

I assume that my Flying Cloud 20 is amenable to this Sport solution -- will check it out soon:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...rs-127845.html

Thanks again.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rifrafult View Post
SeeMore - I tried to upload the 4 jpgs again, but same failed result. Will try again in a few days.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeMore View Post
I hope your usefulness and longevity experience exceeds mine with the Silenx fans. Mine have been in place about three years now without issue: cool even on the hottest of days and are not detectable in the coach.

Rifrafult - you were probably posting your pictures correctly. The site seems to have intermittent issue with uploads which is quite frustrating and leaves many believing they are at fault. Just try again later.
Quote:
Originally Posted by leedav View Post
Wow. Took me longer to read that than it took me to do the mod
__________________
OTRA15 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2015, 11:36 PM   #191
1 Rivet Member
 
Currently Looking...
Coon Rapids , Minnesota
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 14
I prefer Noctua

In my experience, the Noctua fans are as quiet as the Silenex fans, just as reliable, and significantly less expensive: Amazon.com: noctua

I've had them in my rig for several years. I have 5 of them on my Norcold 1200 (with some added soundproofing for the cabinet) and unless I put my ear to the wall, I can't hear them at all.

__________________
BobRay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2015, 07:36 PM   #192
1 Rivet Member
 
eganwh's Avatar
 
2015 23' International
Billings , Montana
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 16
Yep. Silenx fans ran great all summer with no issues. Very happy with the upgrade.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Thanks for the guidance. I assume everyone is still happy with this simple Silenx solution?.
__________________
eganwh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2015, 01:14 PM   #193
Rivet Master

 
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Long Island , New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 3,011
Thanks eganwh for this post and the detailed earlier ones -- much appreciated. With cooler weather in the offing, a new fan may however move down the to-do list.
__________________
OTRA15 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2015, 03:28 PM   #194
Rivet Master
 
Wayne&Sam's Avatar
 
2014 25' Flying Cloud
Cuddebackville , New York
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 2,707
Images: 21
After six years my Silenx fan gave up the ghost. I was on a two month trip so I just went to a BestBuy and bought the only one they had. Very quiet, but it doesn't more much air.

Now that I'm home I ordered a replacement Silenx.
__________________
2014 25' Flying Cloud Rear Twin
2012 Dodge Durango Hemi/AWD
Wayne&Sam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2015, 05:36 AM   #195
Rivet Master

 
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Long Island , New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 3,011
The Silenx 7618 was $13.99 last night on Amazon FYI, with quantities limited so I ordered two.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._detailpages00

When I get around to installing it, I will report on the 20-Footers thread, as the Dometic configuration in our Flying Cloud 20' model may be unique. [link in earlier post]
__________________
OTRA15 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2015, 05:43 AM   #196
Rivet Master
 
Wayne&Sam's Avatar
 
2014 25' Flying Cloud
Cuddebackville , New York
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 2,707
Images: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
The Silenx 7618 was $13.99 last night on Amazon FYI, with quantities limited so I ordered two.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._detailpages00

When I get around to installing it, I will report on the 20-Footers thread, as the Dometic configuration in our Flying Cloud 20' model may be unique.
I paid a few dollars more on Amazon the other day.

Unless things have changed since 2007, the 20' installation is the same.
__________________

__________________
2014 25' Flying Cloud Rear Twin
2012 Dodge Durango Hemi/AWD
Wayne&Sam is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
noisy refrigerator fan Turtle 1997 - 2004 Bambi 9 06-03-2004 04:45 PM
Another Approach to Refrig Fan? wvmiller Refrigerators 2 04-10-2004 06:59 PM
Exhaust Fan Cat Roof Vents, Skylights & Fans 1 10-04-2002 11:44 PM
Recent Model Parts Books in PDF format thenewkid64 Link Archive 1 08-05-2002 02:29 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by



Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.