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Old 07-29-2014, 08:03 AM   #127
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I found one that had the spec I was looking for.

Rand Solar Attic Fan Thermostat Thermal Switch Electric 85 F Controller Snap | eBay
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:11 PM   #128
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Whats flammable is the hydrogen used to pressurize the cooling units.
Manufacturers could use helium ( like I do ) but since it is much more expensive the stay with hydrogen.

Stu Snyder
Snyders RV refrigeration LLC

The super heated ammonia becomes a highly flammable plasma under 400 psi pressure and causes the ignition. Again, this happens either when operating on LP or electric!

The Norcold recalls focused on installing a high temperature sensor on the boiler tube to remove the 12 VDC from the control board, which then closes the gas valve to HOPEFULLY remove the ignition source.

This recall does NOTHING to mitigate the fire potential when the RV fridge is operating on 120 VAC electric, as a couple of 600 degree heating elements encased in steel tubes and wrapped in insulation retain enough heat, even after power has been removed, to create a combustible environment for the escaping ammonia.

The main point is that ANY cooling fans have NO RELATIONSHIP with any fire mitigation potential.


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Old 07-29-2014, 08:20 PM   #129
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Stu,

That's the common misconception. I thought that also until I was directly involved in a Norcold 1200 fire inquiry. Hydrogen is lighter than ammonia and does NOT migrate DOWN to the boiler tube location from the upper sections of the cooling unit where the hydrogen is found and where the majority of leaks and subsequent fires occur.

The rep from Norcold that was at the judicial inquiry specifically told me that it was the super-heated ammonia and NOT the hydrogen that was at fault in the fire in question, which started AT the boiler tube and ignited the AMMONIA as it blew across the hot electric heating elements.

Right from the corporate 'horses mouth!

Major class action lawsuits against Norcold and Dometic are in the works in California now. I personally hope that they get sued right out of business for producing a KNOWN HAZARD and trying to mitigate the combustive potential by applying, in effect, a band-aid to the problem with their high temperature sensors instead of re-designing the cooling unit to PREVENT the potential problem to begin with!!!!

I'll stick with Danfoss compressor units...thank you very much!!!
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:05 PM   #130
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Airstream authorized my local A/S dealer to install a fan switch inside my three week old International 23D. It is just like the one that comes standard in the International 19.

I had to disconnect the fan during a recent trip because we weren't getting much sleep. Now we have some control over when he fan runs.....like not at night. It still screams when on. I mounted it with rubber o-rings....no difference.

I ordered this SilenX fan but it came with a "computer" type connector, so I'm not sure that it can be substituted for the OEM fan.
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:13 PM   #131
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Quote:
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I ordered this SilenX fan but it came with a "computer" type connector, so I'm not sure that it can be substituted for the OEM fan.
If it's a 12 volt fan, you can just splice the wires. If the fan runs backwards, reverse them. Disconnect the battery before wiring it. Otherwise, if you short across the hot and neutral fan wires, you'll blow the fuse (usually the glass fuse on the circuit board).
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Old 08-12-2014, 12:58 AM   #132
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This fan comes wired with two connectors that are standard for most PCs. If neither mates to the OEM fan harness, you can cut the larger connector off and splice the fan wires to the existing (Airstream) fan harness.

There are only two wires, positive and negative; and wiring them incorrectly only results in the fan running in reverse. After physically mounting the new fan, just use trial and error to figure out which wires go where (the fan should blow outward), before completing the splices.

To make future replacement easier (these fans usually last only a couple of seasons, at least in the desert southwest), you may wish to buy a connector (with pigtails) that mates to the new SilenX fan; and splice the pigtail wires into the existing Airstream harness. That way, when you replace this fan in a few years, all you'll have to do is unplug and remove the old fan; then install and plug in the new replacement.
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Old 08-13-2014, 03:11 PM   #133
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Quote:
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This fan comes wired with two connectors that are standard for most PCs. If neither mates to the OEM fan harness, you can cut the larger connector off and splice the fan wires to the existing (Airstream) fan harness.

There are only two wires, positive and negative; and wiring them incorrectly only results in the fan running in reverse. After physically mounting the new fan, just use trial and error to figure out which wires go where (the fan should blow outward), before completing the splices.

To make future replacement easier (these fans usually last only a couple of seasons, at least in the desert southwest), you may wish to buy a connector (with pigtails) that mates to the new SilenX fan; and splice the pigtail wires into the existing Airstream harness. That way, when you replace this fan in a few years, all you'll have to do is unplug and remove the old fan; then install and plug in the new replacement.
Great suggestions.

I noticed that there is a huge difference in wire size between those going to the installed fan and the SilenX. Should I be concerned?
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Old 08-13-2014, 03:45 PM   #134
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The heavier wires are standard for PC power supplies, and these fans draw very little current. The smaller wires will carry the current fine, so you don't have to be concerned about them.

The reason I suggested splicing in the heavier wires is that they are easier to work with, and they will survive splicing and repeated handling and mating better.
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Old 09-21-2014, 04:37 PM   #135
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What is the correct temp rating for the replacement thermal switch?
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Old 10-15-2014, 07:46 PM   #136
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Very interesting thread. Just came back from 2 nights in my 2015 25RB FC. The fan noise was horrible. I just disconnected the thermistor for the the trip, the plan is to replace the fan and improve the mounting isolation. Last resort will be a thermistor that comes on at a slightly higher temp.
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Old 10-15-2014, 09:06 PM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsmblue View Post
Very interesting thread. Just came back from 2 nights in my 2015 25RB FC. The fan noise was horrible. I just disconnected the thermistor for the the trip, the plan is to replace the fan and improve the mounting isolation. Last resort will be a thermistor that comes on at a slightly higher temp.
We have the same model. It makes huge difference on cooling of that fridge compartment if you prop open the upper fridge vent door. It helps a little bit more to prop open lower fridge vent door.

If you park that side of the trailer in shade or away from the sun, or have a street side awning to shade the compartment, then prop open the vent doors, the fan will come on much less, if at all. Also ventilate the inside of the trailer so it does not get hot, and the fridge compartment will stay cooler.
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Old 10-16-2014, 08:56 AM   #138
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Hi Doug,

Thanks for the info. We are in Oregon, it did not get higher then 68F in the day time and we were parked under trees with all awnings out.

I think during the winter months we could get away with not having a fan on at all, but l like things to work well, so I will mod and post back when I have an update

The new fan should arrive tomorrow, then I need to source some rubber orings/washers and we will see how that works before replacing with a different temp thermistor...
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:37 AM   #139
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Dometic recommends a maximum gap between the trailer wall and the back of the cooling unit tubing. If there is too much gap a smaller percentage of air flow goes over the tubes. I notice on my 25fb Airstream built out a wall from the shell so there is only a couple of inches clearance. I have the roof vent on mine so I don't have a fan. Don't they do that on these side vent configurations? Do they install a curved baffle at the top of the fridge compartment to direct air to the upper side vent? Sounds like they are trying brute force methods to overcome poor airflow design.

Kelvin
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Old 10-16-2014, 10:08 AM   #140
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We replaced our OEM fan 3 years ago with 2 silenx fans. We fabricated an aluminum holder for the 2nd fan just like the one that came from AS. The fans are still going strong and you can't even hear them run. Our AS dealer temp tested our refrigerator and it works just fine.

This is probably one or the best mods we ever did. The old fan was so noisy we couldn't sleep.
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