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Old 10-07-2002, 04:55 PM   #1
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Question Refrigerator Removal

Help! I can't find where all if the screws are located to remove my original domestic refridgerator. There are no visible screws to the floor or the top from the inside. I've taken all of the screws from the sides out but it won't budge. Archives suggested replacing it with an 110AC unit. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated.
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Old 10-07-2002, 05:12 PM   #2
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Did you check the walls or cabinents on either side to see if screws are visible that go into the outer area of the refrigerator? Smily removed his Dometic after I sent him step by step procedures but my search did not show my posting. The reason some are recommending 110 AC is because the units are cheaper than paying over $1,000 to Camping World for a 110/LP Dometic Classic unit. If you will always have 110 available then the cheaper route may be for you.
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Old 10-07-2002, 05:19 PM   #3
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Craig, I did take out all of the screws from the inside of the pantry wall (left) and the wall on the other side (right). I think there are about 4-5 on each side. I noticed that from the access panel there is a small board screwed to the frame on the bottom of the fridge but can't see that the board is attached to the floor. I could not find your post to Smily in the archives either. Thanks.
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Old 10-07-2002, 06:36 PM   #4
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If you look in the bottom corners of the door opening with the door open there are likley 2 screws there that can get overlooked.
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Old 10-08-2002, 07:42 AM   #5
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Side Panel

The secret to removal is:

You have to remove wall panel between Credenza and Reefer.

There is sheet metal, that acts as a flange, that is screwed to the floor and to the skin.
This sheet metal is screwed to the reefer.

the only screws going into the floor are the ones that hold the sheet metal to the floor

I will post photo here. The panel that you see the TV on, has to be removed. You will have to drill out the rivets that hold the wall panel to the bracket at the ceiling skin.

Also there are screws that hold the overhead locker to the wall panel. This will allow you to remove the wall panel.

The thermostat, (behind TV in photo) will have to be removed for the wall extraction. Tape coat hanger or piece of wire to the Thermostat wires for re-installation, (fishing the wires back through hole upon replacement of wall panel). I also had telephone wire extending through the credenza through wall panel into refrigerator air space, (near the floor).

You can see in the picture where I replaced the brown screws and rivets with aluminum, (silver) screws.

I will be glad to help if I can. We love our reefer.

Smily
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Old 10-08-2002, 11:27 AM   #6
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Wink Refridgerator Removal

Thank you both for the insight on the removal procedure. I knew there had to be something else holding the reefer in place. I will try removing the wall panel tonight. Anyone traveling throgh the southern Rockies is welcome to lend a hand. I'll take before and after photos to post. I need to replace the thermostat on that wall anyway and was looking at the Hunter digital at Walmart. Your rennovation looks great! Why did you decide not to replace the Credenza?
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Old 10-08-2002, 11:37 AM   #7
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Credenza

I never removed my credenza. It is behind the small table thingy's.

My credenza does not protrude into the living area like the ones on the 31 footer AS or at least the larger than 27 footers. Which is why my TV is wall mounted instead of sitting on a protruding credenza

I have only one window and one of the vista view windows, (above and below the large window ) but any way my Overlander only has one window rather than two.

I did have to cut the shelf above the refrigerator to allow for the taller reefer. I cut the aluminum trim pieces to fit the new cuts. I will take some close up photos and post tommorrow.

You can barely see the Tambour door on the wall but it is still there.

Good luck with your alteration

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Old 10-09-2002, 05:43 PM   #8
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Demolition phase

Well, I had to remove the credenza, the pantry and both wall partitions in between to get to remove the refridgerator. Just about every screw on the panels was attached to the sides. Also the flashing you mentioned was attached the side to the floor. (see photo). Someone had put in hardwood floors making it very tight in the space. Also the vent on top of the refridgerator had flashing and was making the removal difficult. Tonight I get to put the cabinets back together and install the new fridge and microwave. I'll take some after pictures.
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Old 10-10-2002, 06:57 AM   #9
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Mucho diferento

Your trailer is very dissimilar than mine. I can see from the photo, I feel your pain.

My exhaust shroud or flue was not exposed but I did have to cut it to make room for the larger reefer. I see that you will not have to cut the shelf above reefer seeing that you do not have one.

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Old 10-10-2002, 12:28 PM   #10
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Alterations

I'm surprised that they are so different. I inclued a picture of the flashing your described. The whole removeal took one evening and anothe to clean the space and put the cabinetry back in place. The exhaust shroud is not needed for the new refridgerator so I used a Rotozip with an attachment for cutting and it worked great. I'm putting in a smaller 100AC fridge and a micorwave in the place where the domestic was located tonight. More updates tomorrow. What did your do wit the exhaust shroud inside the upper cabinet?
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Old 10-10-2002, 12:34 PM   #11
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Shroud

The refrigerator has coils on the back that allows the systems to heat sink. The air passing through my flue helps cool the coils.

My Flue and shroud are not exposed so I just trimmed my shroud a little to allow for the tall refrigerator.

I hope this will also prevent some rainwater or pressure washer water from getting inside of my AS.

The sheetmetal is the same as mine but I also had a similar piece of sheetmetal attached to the Wall Skin about freezer high. This keeps the reefer from leaning forward and back.

Smily
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Old 10-10-2002, 12:44 PM   #12
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Refridgerator ventillation

That brings up a good question. I saw on another post that the scren mesh on the floor in the back of the refridgerator could be covered by flashing? There will be about 12 inches of space for the air to rise behind the coils and will exhaust through the modified shroud. I am adding a shelf about the fridge to put the microwave and it will hold the fridge in place. What do you think about covering the mesh?
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Old 10-10-2002, 12:54 PM   #13
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Airflow

You will definitely need some form of airflow. So I would leave the screen open and I would try to find someway to maintain a "flue" to the top. You may be able to do without but the coils are on the reefer for a reason.

Also, most microwaves have some form of vent. Mine has vents on the sides. Will you MV have a vent path?

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Old 10-10-2002, 01:01 PM   #14
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Ventillation for Appliances

Well, I've seen kits for mounting MW in cabinets so it allows ventillation. I was planning on leaving an inch or so on each side of the MW and hope the ventillation flows with the refridgerator. The foot of space behind them should allow convection up through the flue. Is there a exhaust fan in the top of the shroud?
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