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07-30-2013, 07:40 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
Leavenworth
, Washington
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 5
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Rebuild for Dometic
Hi,
New to the site. We have an 1987 25 foot Sovereion and are looking for recommendation for a rebuilt unit for the Dometic any suggestions.
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07-30-2013, 08:55 PM
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#2
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Figment of My Imagination
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over
, More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chumstick
Hi,
New to the site. We have an 1987 25 foot Sovereion and are looking for recommendation for a rebuilt unit for the Dometic any suggestions.
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The Dometic what? Fridge? Air conditioner? Dometic makes a lot of products that end up in Airstreams.
__________________
I thought getting old would take longer!
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07-30-2013, 10:41 PM
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#3
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1 Rivet Member
Leavenworth
, Washington
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 5
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oops,
Sorry fridge
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07-30-2013, 10:59 PM
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#4
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4 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Hopkins
, Minnesota
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 458
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Depends on what needs to be done to it. It can be very expensive...upwards of $700 or more, again, depending on what needs to be done. As finicky as those fridges can be (always speak in low calm tones whenever around one...). Unless you are near someone who can work on one....it may be more cost effective to buy a new unit.
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07-31-2013, 05:58 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
Hilltop Lakes
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,767
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Check out
rvmobile.com
They did a good job for us.
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08-19-2013, 06:29 PM
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#6
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1 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 20
Pinehurst
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 10
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We have a 1976 20' argosy land yacht. We have been working on it for a couple of months and last weekend decided to remove the pink carpet. After it was removed we were removing the peeling wallpaper when I noticed an ammonia smell. Soon it was so strong we had to get out. The hubs think it was the dometic frige coolant but we aren't sure and don't know how to check. Any suggestions?
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08-19-2013, 06:30 PM
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#7
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1 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 20
Pinehurst
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 10
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PS: what is a rivet member?
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08-19-2013, 06:59 PM
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#8
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Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Momoaizo
PS: what is a rivet member?
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If you go to where you put in the text "Confused new member" AND REMOVE THAT TEXT* there will be rivets appearing in that space as you continue to post.
More posts, more rivets. Get it?
*Sorry, caps is an edit. Should have put that in yesterday.
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
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08-19-2013, 07:01 PM
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#9
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Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Momoaizo
After it was removed we were removing the peeling wallpaper when I noticed an ammonia smell. Soon it was so strong we had to get out. The hubs think it was the dometic frige coolant but we aren't sure and don't know how to check. Any suggestions?
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That was your refer (what we call a fridge) giving up on life. The coolant leaked out, therefore you need to either buy a brand new refer, or, for a lot less money, a new cooling system. Fairly easy to put in if you are handy with basic tools.
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
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08-19-2013, 08:15 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage
That was your refer (what we call a fridge) giving up on life. The coolant leaked out, therefore you need to either buy a brand new refer, or, for a lot less money, a new cooling system. Fairly easy to put in if you are handy with basic tools.
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I am not sure it is a lot less money. We went ahead and bought a new fridge for $850. I don't know what a new cooling system would have cost but our fridge was 30 years old, missing two shelves, old seals, etc. Also the condenser on the new fridge was considerably larger (about 40-50%) than the original one which will help it cool better.
Dan
Note- the one on the left is the 30 year old Dometic RM2500 and the new RM2510 is on the right.
I was very careful when I installed it and added more insulation and baffling behind the fridge to improve performance. I have it set on 2 and it is keeping it at 37-38 degrees in temperatures up to 90 degrees.
Good luck.
Dan
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08-19-2013, 09:07 PM
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#11
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Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TouringDan
I am not sure it is a lot less money. We went ahead and bought a new fridge for $850. I don't know what a new cooling system would have cost but our fridge was 30 years old, missing two shelves, old seals, etc. Also the condenser on the new fridge was considerably larger (about 40-50%) than the original one which will help it cool better.
Dan
Note- the one on the left is the 30 year old Dometic RM2500 and the new RM2510 is on the right.
I was very careful when I installed it and added more insulation and baffling behind the fridge to improve performance. I have it set on 2 and it is keeping it at 37-38 degrees in temperatures up to 90 degrees.
Good luck.
Dan
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Hi, Dan. at rvcoolingunit.com the RM2500 cooling unit is $485, but you get $100 back for returning the old core. I don't know what those parts you would have needed cost, so it might not have worked for you.
My RM 2812 is an 8 cu ft model, and the cooling unit for it is $525 for the same style in a rebuilt one, or $645 for a much heavier-built brand new one. These guys are the only people I have seen that do the rebuilts or for a bit more, they have huskier brand new ones. The so-called Amish ones. I don't know if the $100 rebate applies against the new one, but it does on the rebuilt.
All that to say, up here in Canada, an equivalent to that RM2812 refer goes for about $1600 new. The shipping costs would be absurd, so I would have to drive down with the TT and have them install it (time). Any way you slice it, it is much cheaper for me, at least.
I have done a lot of reading on peak weather performance, since my sister-in-law complained she didn't get good cooling in hot weather, and the key is to add fans, those little muffin fans you see in computers. They are quiet, cheap, and take little current.
RV Cooling Unit also puts forth a good argument for an inexpensive twin-fan setup to use INSIDE the refer. But the cooling of the rear cabinet is essential for the life of the refer and its performance, and cannot be forgotten.
BTW, I have no affiliation with RV Coolling Unit, other than as a satisfied customer (a heating element, and soon some fans).
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
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08-19-2013, 09:14 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,226
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Aage
One of the best answers lately seems to be "it depends" I sure would have gone with a new cooling unit also in your case when you compare $525 for a new cooling unit to the cost of a new fridge at $1,600.
Thanks for the info.
Dan
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08-19-2013, 09:17 PM
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#13
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Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
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Dan,
Even with yours it's about 1/2 price, but your missing parts might not have even been available new. Plus, when you can get one at such a good price, we have to remember, there IS something nice about Brand New.
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
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08-20-2013, 02:58 PM
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#14
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New Member
1978 31' Excella 500
Hillsboro
, Tennessee
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 4
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I have a 1978 Excella 500 with at Dometic and have broken the gas/electric selector, any ideas where to find the model number for the fridge or the selector?
Thanks,
John
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08-20-2013, 03:09 PM
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#15
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Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdotson
I have a 1978 Excella 500 with at Dometic and have broken the gas/electric selector, any ideas where to find the model number for the fridge or the selector?
Thanks,
John
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John,
Look in through the hatch on the outside of your trailer behind the refer: there is a paper diagram there on the back of the refer where the model number was marked on ours.
But even if you aren't able to find the model number, I think if you just asked for the selector knob for that year, you should be OK.
I would start with Dometic directly...
Contact Information
For RV products
Customer Support Center
2320 Industrial Parkway
Elkhart, IN 46516
Phone: 1-800-544-4881
CustomerSupportCenter@DometicUSA.com
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
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08-28-2013, 05:34 PM
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#16
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2 Rivet Member
1978 Argosy 24
1977 Argosy 28
Vintage Kin Owner
Darrington
, Washington
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 84
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I am refurbishing a 77 28' Argosy. It has the original Dometic RM 100 model fridge. I promised the wife to buy a new one. Dometic suggests models RM 2820,2852,2862 or 3962. The 2820 seems to be the only slide in fit. All others will require raising pantry for the unit. I have only found one review of the 2820 that was on Amazon and it was not very positive. Anyone have expereice with a new model?
Reading several other forums, some people put in a residential fridge and use their battery while boon docking. What experience does anyone have? I already plan on upgrading to a new converter and may even try to place two 6 volt batteries instead of a single 12V. They would have to go under the bed but I think I heard on VAT that AGM batteries do not need to be vented. Am I correct?
Too many choices, too many options, too little knowledge. LOL
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08-28-2013, 11:08 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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You will need an inverter, a big one! and a large amount of battery capacity or a generator to boondock with a residential fridge.
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08-29-2013, 06:10 AM
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#18
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Always learning
1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,881
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Another option is the refer with a Danfoss type compressor.
__________________
Lance
Work is never done, so take time to play!
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08-30-2013, 01:00 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffaloman
Reading several other forums, some people put in a residential fridge and use their battery while boon docking. What experience does anyone have? I already plan on upgrading to a new converter and may even try to place two 6 volt batteries instead of a single 12V. They would have to go under the bed but I think I heard on VAT that AGM batteries do not need to be vented. Am I correct?
Too many choices, too many options, too little knowledge. LOL
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It is good that you are going to two golf cart batteries. I boondock a lot and I can easily go 4 or 5 days without charging my batteries. Normal battery load is lights (I have LED), water pump, some use of the fan and possibly some tv. My fridge runs on propane. If you use a residential fridge, you will run your batteries down in a matter of HOURS. Camping is no fun with dead batteries. Don't use a residential fridge.
When you upgrade your converter, you may want to install a "battery tender" to keep tabs on your battery voltage. I got both from Industrial Device Networking - Serial, Ethernet & USB - B&B Electronics.
Dan
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08-30-2013, 01:08 PM
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#20
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,226
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