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Old 08-15-2009, 12:57 AM   #15
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Another point of view.

Hi, I don't think leaving the refrigerator on all of the time is much of an issue, but the fact that you will be plugged in, most or all of the time is. Your converter, in many cases, will cook your batteries in time and removing your batteries while plugged in will most likely kill your converter. Therefore I only use mine while traveling, ....... "Travel Trailer".
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Old 08-15-2009, 08:20 AM   #16
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Jack,
You are right about the leveling. I have a '90 Excella with a new cold pack installed in '07 on the existing frig box.

I do get it pretty level. Easier to do front to back, I'll tolerate a little off center side to side level, so I think I'm OK within the frig tolerances.

My post was more to ask if anyone found that more continuous running helped clear up an *apparent* ammonia clog. In other words, a lightly clumped gas started running more free.

I have heard of people who have a *dead* frig pull it out and turn it upside down several times. Andy says that is *at best* a short time fix and ready for a new one.

Since I just put on a new cooling unit, I don't think I'm at the *dead frig* point. Least hope not. Wife wants to get a small electric for the back of the pickup when we are in full service RV sites.

Steve
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Old 08-15-2009, 09:29 AM   #17
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I think the ammonia clog is normally a sign of off level operation. Once you operate off level the ammonia mixture separates due to the lack of free flow within the boiler and evaporative piping. The inability for the liquids to remix from being off level along with the heat applied starts the development of the blockage.

I don't believe continuous running is beneficial to clearing clogs. The best prevention is to run them level. Mine ran 14 years in my old trailer before failing due to a leak. Clog was never an issue.

Jack
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Old 08-15-2009, 03:08 PM   #18
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Dometic Service Manual pdf says....

Jack,

You are right. Here is what the Dometic people say:
Very good manual, has a diagnostic flow chart also

"Under normal operation the temperature at
the absorber coils (A) and the boiler (B)
should be approximately the same. If the
temperature at the absorber coils (A) is
much hotter it indicates loss of refrigerant
and the cooling unit must be replaced. If
the temperature at the boiler (B) is very hot
and the absorber coils (A) are cool it indicates
that the refrigerant is not circulating properly."

(The absorber coils are the ones that zig-zag down the back)

I haven't checked this or the top vent yet. Pouring rain in Sav'h today.

Steve
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:11 PM   #19
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We leave our frig on all the time (on shore power) unless we are not going to be able to get out camping for a month or longer...in that case we do shut it down and give it a good cleaning...and leave the door open so that it dries completely inside so that mildew/mold does not have a chance to grow. While running at home, we do check it periodically to make sure it is operating properly...we have not had a problem so far. We did the same thing with a small motor home...also a Dometic frig and we never had a problem.
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Old 08-15-2009, 09:49 PM   #20
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The correct answer is...

Both.
I have noticed it takes about the same time for a cooling unit to "wear out" from constant use as it does to fail from intermittent use. From customers with failed fridges of about the same age, it seems to be around a 50/50 split.
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Old 09-14-2009, 09:34 PM   #21
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I have a dometic fridge/freezer in my 1989 Airstream 345. I recently repaced the cooling unit. The fridge works well but the freezer frosts over real quick. Any suggestions?
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Old 09-15-2009, 04:51 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboy28540 View Post
I have a dometic fridge/freezer in my 1989 Airstream 345. I recently repaced the cooling unit. The fridge works well but the freezer frosts over real quick. Any suggestions?
Check your gasket around the fridge door. If it isn't sealing properly moist air from cooking and showering will enter and collect on the cooling fins. Insert a sheet of paper and see if you can pull it out. Move the paper all around the gasket and try again after each relocation. If you narrow it down to an area less than the size of the paper, switch to a $1 bill (any denomination actually) to further zero in on the gap between the gasket and frame. This is usually the culprit.
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