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Old 06-22-2014, 09:52 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
Measure the voltage. If it less that 110v you have a problem. I=V/R P=IV.

Perry
It measures 115 at the plug here at home. I should have checked it at the campgrounds. I stayed at 2 different ones; one a state park and the other a private CG. At both the coldest on electric was 45. Switched over to propane and the next morning it was 29 and stayed under 35. The last CG was a National Park but primitive camping so no A/C. Temps got to 93 both days and the fridge never got over 35 even though the AS was in the upper 80s.

I've emailed Dometic to find out what the resistance is supposed to be and get their opinion on the situation.
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Old 06-22-2014, 11:45 AM   #16
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I have read, but have no personal experience, that some of the elements which are listed as xxx watts on the element have been mis manufactured or mis labeled and do not necessarily put out heat at the rate they should.

The easiest way to check for this is to buy or borrow a Kil A Watt meter (they are about $25 to $35) and measure the actual wattage for the element you are using to see if it agrees with the stated wattage it should be.

The Kil A Watt is a nice thing to own anyway, very useful to measure actual wattage draw of anything from a television to an AC to a microwave. Accurate and inexpensive.
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:43 AM   #17
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I heard from Dometic. They said the resistance is supposed to be 88 ohms and I probably have a failing heating element. They recommend I replace it. Since I was able to get it out easily it should go back in the same way, looks like a snap. Hope it solves the problem.
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Old 06-25-2014, 04:39 PM   #18
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I heard from Dometic. They said the resistance is supposed to be 88 ohms and I probably have a failing heating element. They recommend I replace it. Since I was able to get it out easily it should go back in the same way, looks like a snap. Hope it solves the problem.
I think you're right on and that the heating element needs to be replaced. A common problem.
Not mentioned above, but a very good way to test heating elements if you're knowledgeable enough of electricity is to "straight wire" the heating element. You do this by taking a short piece of electrical cord with a plug, unplug the refer plug from 110 outlet, remove the two heating element leads from the control board, attach the leads to the electric cord (wrap each connection with electrical tape), and plug in to your 110v outlet. In 8-10 hours your refrigerator (not freezer) compartment should be at least down to freezing. Doing this eliminates any possibility of a control board, thermistor, or 12v issue.
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Old 06-25-2014, 08:59 PM   #19
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I think you're right on and that the heating element needs to be replaced. A common problem.
Not mentioned above, but a very good way to test heating elements if you're knowledgeable enough of electricity is to "straight wire" the heating element. You do this by taking a short piece of electrical cord with a plug, unplug the refer plug from 110 outlet, remove the two heating element leads from the control board, attach the leads to the electric cord (wrap each connection with electrical tape), and plug in to your 110v outlet. In 8-10 hours your refrigerator (not freezer) compartment should be at least down to freezing. Doing this eliminates any possibility of a control board, thermistor, or 12v issue.
Yeah, I saw that done in a video. If my resistance had been closer to what Dometic had said it was supposed to be that would have been the next step.

I've got a new element on order. I'll see how that resistance compares to what Dometic says it should be. If it's close I'll install it and test it out next time he's home. If there's still a problem I'll plug it directly into the AC
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