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Old 09-28-2008, 09:46 PM   #15
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fan

Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags View Post
Lucy (our '05 25FB) had all the same refer problems described in this thread. We especially had this problem when on LP in the real hot weather.

About a month ago, I installed a small 12 volt fan (from Home Depot for $23) in the outside refer box, and aimed it up on the coils. I use it mostly while underway. It has made a phenomenal difference in refer performance.

Before I installed the fan, I would bring the refer down below 30 during the night. I would run on gas all day on 5. When I would make camp that night, the refer would be up at 45-50 degrees.

Now I start in the morning at 35 degrees. I run all day on 4. At the end of the day the inside temp in the refer is 30! What a difference.

We do a lot of camping in hot damp weather, so this has been a great find for us.

Brian
where do you hook the 12 volt fan for power supply?
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Old 09-29-2008, 06:17 AM   #16
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One concern I have about Snyder's conversion is that it looks like the cooling fins are completely enclosed by the plenum. To me that would mean the fan HAS to run most of the time. Even though the fan is a low draw I'd prefer to allow the refrigerator work without a fan at times. I like the idea of adding a second fan better. I'm going to do that and replace the original fan, using two quieter models.
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:34 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waltero View Post
where do you hook the 12 volt fan for power supply?
I hooked the wires of the 12 volt fan to the 12 volt DC power block in the outside refer cabinet. I just put the fan leads in the the other 12 volt power wires. I used a multi-meter to insure that I was on a 12 volt DC line. It should read out at 13-14 volts DC.

I went out this morning and took a couple of pictures of my setup. The white wires are from the fan.

Brian
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:54 AM   #18
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Hello -

We had the same problem. I researched the threads here and then went to Radio Shack and bought a medium-large (3") computer cooling fan (12v), a piece of metal strapping, a switch and some wire. I cut the strapping into two equal pieces and fashioned a bracket for the fan. I mounted the fan on the floor of the refrigerator compartment, wired it into a 12v power source and attached the switch. The fan blows air up across the coils and throught the refrigerator vent in the roof. When the weather is hot, I flip the switch to turn the fan on and it keeps the fridge very cold. In cooler weather, I keep it switched off. I don't have access until Friday to take a picture, but if I remember (I'm growing old and forgetful), I"ll take a few and post them over the weekend.

There are kits out there for retail sale, but the two I tried before this solution had VERY noisy fans - this is pretty quiet.

Best of luck!
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Old 09-29-2008, 11:15 AM   #19
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I also have had poor performance with my Frig.

My first approach was to install a 12 volt fan controlled by a 110 degree thermostat. This did not solve the problem. I have removed the fan.

Looking at Dometic's installation requirements and Airstream installation I realized that the Frig was exposed to the heated air of the condenser on 5 sides. With that in mind I removed the Frig and installed pillow type insulation on the 2 sides that would fit tight to the frig when reinstalled. I made a sheet metal False back that reduced the air column up the back of the frig to more closely meet Dometic's requirements of 1 in. clearance. This insures the natural chimney convection.

While this has helped I would be interested in info on where to get info on the Snyder Kit.
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Old 09-29-2008, 03:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags View Post
I hooked the wires of the 12 volt fan to the 12 volt DC power block in the outside refer cabinet. I just put the fan leads in the the other 12 volt power wires. I used a multi-meter to insure that I was on a 12 volt DC line. It should read out at 13-14 volts DC.

I went out this morning and took a couple of pictures of my setup. The white wires are from the fan.

Brian
Where in Home Depot do they sell 12v fans?
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Old 07-06-2010, 01:30 PM   #21
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Install cooling fans on 1972 trailer

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Originally Posted by Chuck View Post
(took the liberty of moving your post to a new thread, as it has nothing to do with the recall being discussed in the other thread...)

Is this the first time you've run the fridge whilst being parked in the wide-open hot sun?

If your cooling unit went south, you'd smell ammonia. see here:Tour of America Meltdown

It could just be poor air circulation behind the fridge. This is a problem more with newer trailers with side-wall venting, (the old style floor-to-roof type venting creates a better natural chimney effect), particularly those with the trailer doors can actually cover up the fridge vents.
you can get aftermarket kits with little 12v fans that'll help keep the air moving back there. First, though, I'd check the flue area and make sure its clear of any obstructions, etc.

here's a link to a kit that can help, if the problem is poor air circulation:
http://www.snydersrvrefrigeration.com/2301.html
How is the install on a 70's era trailer?
I do not believe I have any DC in the outside fridge area, the website mentions possible needing to trim plenum, will I have to do that with the snyder fan add on?

My unit at times gets a little bit too warm even on max temp setting.
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Old 08-11-2011, 11:41 AM   #22
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any one install one of the DC fans in 70's era trailer? How did it work how did you install?
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Old 08-11-2011, 12:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loechli View Post
How is the install on a 70's era trailer?
I do not believe I have any DC in the outside fridge area, the website mentions possible needing to trim plenum, will I have to do that with the snyder fan add on?

My unit at times gets a little bit too warm even on max temp setting.
The current draw of suitable fans is pretty low, so you can tap into any 12v pair that you can reach. Look for available 12v circuits in places such as behind lower drawers. Make sure you have the right polarity to the fan. Recent trailers use white for ground, but I suspect that 70s era trailers probably use black for ground.

The plenum is plastic and can be easily trimmed if needed. It would be pretty obvious what would need to be done to get the plenum to fit over the finned radiator.
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Old 08-11-2011, 12:50 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska View Post
The current draw of suitable fans is pretty low, so you can tap into any 12v pair that you can reach. Look for available 12v circuits in places such as behind lower drawers. Make sure you have the right polarity to the fan. Recent trailers use white for ground, but I suspect that 70s era trailers probably use black for ground.

The plenum is plastic and can be easily trimmed if needed. It would be pretty obvious what would need to be done to get the plenum to fit over the finned radiator.
I just finished reading your post here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f296...tml#post905958

Post #287, great pictures and description, I think I will order a fan kit from Snyder,

Thanks for the great information.
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