Pilot light in Frig

[niftypkg]

I am the prod owner of a 1971 27' Int. , with the original refrigerator!!!, and it works. One problem: the pilot light blows out while traveling. There is a wire screen along the bottom , I assume to keep out critters. Any suggestions??

[thenewkid64]

You should have a set of sheetmetal shields on the back of the fridge to cover the spot where the pilot is. Do you light it from the back or front?

[niftypkg]

Thanks again thenewkid , It has controls to light from the front. I tried but no luck. Needs work! I have been lighting from the back but it isn't easy since the flame is in a box. Could be the shield that you are talking about. Havn''t got around to looking at it., since I was moving a lot., but it is on the list. MY last brand new pop-up cost me $7000 and nothing worked!! Now I have a 30year old trailer and everthing works.

[thenewkid64]

In our 74 we had trouble keeping the fridge lit when it was really windy while towing. I do not remember doing anything to fix the problem, I think we just tried to be sure everything was cold before we pulled out. The fridge will keep everything cold for hours if it is at temp prior to towing.

If you wanted to you could create a baffle with a metal plate that covers two thirds of the bottom screen. You would need to fasten it down for travel and remove it while parked. The wind flow past the vent cap will pull plenty of air thru the vent stack while under way but with the baffle in place you would not get as much air as necessary while parked. For good measure I would work out a way to hold the baffle down as you could damage someting if it bounces around on you.

Congrats on your new to you trailer, you qualify for the Vintage Airstream Club whit a unit of your age. The group there is very knowelegable and helpful just like us, but they know their stuff when it comes to these old rigs.

[davidz71]

I remember a post awhile back where the individual bought a metal filter screen such as found over the stove in the vent system. They bought a size that fit between the door and the box where the burner is. The filter, being metal rather than paper or fiber, was removed when they reached their destination to provide adequate ventilation. Hope this helps.

[niftypkg]

Thanks again New Kid and David . I'm getting a lot of help from everyone. I did carry an electric cooler with me left over from my pop-up days [good ridance]. I used it [12volts ]during travel and left it on all night, if only over night. Does ayone have any luck with the up front start controls???

[CPRcubed]

I've got a 1971 25' rear bath unit with original fridge. I've only had the pilot blow out once while traveling. My unit lights easily from the back. You just have to have someone move the lever (or whatever it is) on the front to see the red button in the back move. The button opens the gas flow for the pilot. Use one of those butane "match" things to light the pilot while holding the red button. Prior to going on any trips, all things that are going in the fridge and freezer section are kept in the corresponding units in the house to "pre-cool" them. Even if the pilot blows out, the temps will stay fine for quite awhile if the door is not opened. Cheers!

[niftypkg]

Thanks CPR- I guess I've been doing it right. I do have one of those electric coolers that I used if I didn't have time to let the frig cool and I knew I would not have 110v that night.

[hmsteader]

Since you are missing the baffle, you might try using aluminum duct tape, not to be confused with the fabric Duck band tape.

I've used this on a previous SOB, and it worked reasonably well.

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Jim

[eubank]

We had that problem for a while. Finally, I took out the propane orfice and discovered that the tube above the flame and that the flame heats through was allowing tiny flakes of rust fall onto the orfice area. Finally (after decades of service) the area around the orfice and the orfice itself became covered with particles and would barely light, much less stay that way with even a hint of wind. To fix, blow.


Lynn