Phantom Power Drain Found!

[Al and Missy]

I wasn't looking for it, but I found one. I was looking to see if I could change the wiring in my 2001-vintage Dometic fridge so that the light would only come on if the master power switch (their words, not mine) was on. I was surprised to find that the refrigerator compartment light and it's switch are wired in parallel with the humidity control door frame heater power source. If your fridge has this feature, you must turn it off regardless of whether or not the refrigerator itself is on. While the manual states that you should tape the door switch down to turn off the light and turn the heater switch off when charging sources are not available, wouldn't it have been simpler to drive those circuits from the "master power switch"?

[idroba]

You wonder if anyone who designs some of these things ever has actually used them in the field. What a dumb system. I guess one always should park with hookups.

[dickmfield]

I replaced my Dometic recently and the battery is draining fast when on gas mode -- will check my situation. Thanks for the post -- I suspect it will help.

[Lily&Me]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

I wasn't looking for it, but I found one. I was looking to see if I could change the wiring in my 2001-vintage Dometic fridge so that the light would only come on if the master power switch (their words, not mine) was on. I was surprised to find that the refrigerator compartment light and it's switch are wired in parallel with the humidity control door frame heater power source. If your fridge has this feature, you must turn it off regardless of whether or not the refrigerator itself is on. While the manual states that you should tape the door switch down to turn off the light and turn the heater switch off when charging sources are not available, wouldn't it have been simpler to drive those circuits from the "master power switch"?

It makes my eyes cross just to read this.

Understanding it is not an option for me.

My frig does not have a light, so hopefully none of this applies to me.


Maggie

[BigAl]

I think I read somewhere that when operating on gas there is a power draw to keep the gas solenoid valve open.
Al

[Al and Missy]

Maggie,
Do you have a humidity control switch? If you don't know, we can look at it next weekend.

Big Al,
Yes, but the light runs and the door heater heats when the fridge is OFF, as in not operating from either shore power or propane. So if you store your trailer with no shore power and turn the refrigerator OFF, the light will come on if the door swings open.. I solved that problem by taking the bulb out. But I never imagined that the door heater would run if the refrigerator was OFF. Placing the store switch in STORE or disconnecting the battery solves both problems, but it's still a dumb, illogical design.

Al
(Some call me "big Al" as well)

[idroba]

Maggie: I thought the Interstate had a 12 volt compressor electric refrigerator, not a propane one. If it does, no it does not apply to you.

BigAl: Most recent RV refrigerators have circuit board and electronics to let gas into the burner and to light it and monitor it. The post is about the light in the box and the mullion heater between the freezer and refrigerator and how stupidly difficult they are to turn off to eliminate their unnecessary power draw, especially when the refrigerator is shut down.

The normal power draw for the electronics and gas valve is in the range of 0.35 to about 1 amp, depending on the model, age and make of the refrigerator itself.

[Lily&Me]

My Interstate is a 2006.

The frig runs on electricity or propane.

If there is a humidity control switch, I know nothing of it.


Maggie

[idroba]

Maggie, Ah, I think some Interstates have only compressor electric refrigerators. Most small propane refrigerators have no humidity control switch. Usually they are single door units and no mullion heater is needed. I don't know why one is needed on the two door ones either, but I don't live in a humid area.

I doubt you need to worry about it at any rate.

[perryg114]

What specific model of fridge do you have?

Perry

[dickmfield]

I don't have a switch on my DM2652. Here's something I found elsewhere:

"In some models there is in fact a switch to turn the heater off but the DM 2652 lacks a switch. The electronics needed to run the fridge uses only around .27 amps, the heater adds about 1.09 Amps.
You can modify your refrigerator to turn off the heater. Remove the cover over the interior light and you will find two red wires. The heavier wire carries the 12 volts to the heater. Cut this wire and the heater will be off. "

Not sure I want to go this route but ..... battery is draining fast as is.

[Al and Missy]

I have been looking at the DM 2652 manuals because that is what I thought I had, but after the comment I went and checked the label on the inside of the door. The schematics in manuals show the switch, but the text doesn't mention it for the DM 2652.

My fridge is an RM2652 and it does have the switch, which is located inside the freezer at the right edge of the trim at the top of the door. I have to bend down and look up at the underside of the trim to see it.

Al