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Old 09-23-2007, 08:00 PM   #1
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Nova Kool anyone?

I ran across a post on these at Hunter's forum.

Nova Kool, refrigerators, freezers, Marine, RV, Truck

Anybody have any experience with these? If not, any thoughts?

Thanks!
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Old 09-23-2007, 08:02 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wader
I ran across a post on these at Hunter's forum.

Nova Kool, refrigerators, freezers, Marine, RV, Truck

Anybody have any experience with these? If not, any thoughts?

Thanks!
Steve,

I am planning on installing one in my Liner rebuild.

Bill
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Old 09-23-2007, 08:06 PM   #3
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Wow Bill!,

That was quick! Which model are you installing? Where did you get it (if I may ask). I've read that Backwoods solar is the best place.

Since I've gutted may trailer... I think this would be a great alternative.
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Old 09-23-2007, 08:39 PM   #4
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Steve & Crew -

We installed a RFU 9000 on a 1974 31' Sovereign that we "remodeled." We absolutely loved it!

First off, it has a smaller footprint than the old Dometic, yet a larger interior capacity.

We were able to install the fridge plus a small storage drawer in the same area. We also loved the freezer below.

Secondly, with the 12V, you don't have to worry about having the propane off/fridge off when travelling.


We're definitely replacing the old Dometic in "Our Gussy" with a Nova Kool.

When you buy, don't bother with the units that have a combo 12V/110V - it's a waste of $$$ - the compressor is 12V and the 110V option merely adds a converter.
I'd also recommend an interior 12V fan for air circulation.
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Old 09-23-2007, 08:39 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wader
Wow Bill!,

That was quick! Which model are you installing? Where did you get it (if I may ask). I've read that Backwoods solar is the best place.

Since I've gutted may trailer... I think this would be a great alternative.
I am going to get the 7.5 or 8 CF model. Don't have it yet as I am still removing interior skin and need to re-wire the inside. The same type of fridge is made by Dometic under the Tundra line and is available at marine supply stores. I will start looking in the next few months for the best price. This fridge is used in some high end motorhomes. "Odessey" whose blog you can get to from Airstream Life has one which the run on 24V.

Bill
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Old 09-24-2007, 06:18 AM   #6
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whitelight,

Thanks for the info on your experiences. Very interesting about the AC equipped models.

Bill,

I checked out Our Odyssey: Search results for nova kool Sean has made an interesting discovery in regard to the Nova Kool's Low Voltage shut down feature. I wonder if this would be a reason to pay the extra $$$ for the AC model and avoid this problem when connected to shore power. Interesting info.

I'll be waiting to hear what you find when you start shopping.
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Old 09-24-2007, 07:10 AM   #7
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One thing I would be careful of, is if the fridge needs more power than your charge line can provide. It will make the battery in your coach dead. An upgade of the wire would be money well spent, before you experience this.
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Old 09-24-2007, 07:26 AM   #8
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Power usage

I'm not sure about Odyssey's 24V system - our NovaKool was designed to shut down when the battery dropped to around 10V.

We had a battery monitor & 3 stage charging system on our 31' - when plugged to shorepower, the charger always kept the batteries well above the 10V. The unit was 8' from the batteries - we used 8 gauge wire for the power run. Probably an overkill.

We also had 2 - 75 W solar panels.

When running (the compressor cycles), the large NovaKool draws around 5 amps. We had this unit at the Salem ralley in the 100++ temps & it worked flawlessly and we never had a power problem.

Remember, these 12V units were originally designed for the marine environment, where they can operate at 30 degrees heel and take lower voltage battery abuse.
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Old 09-24-2007, 03:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitelight
I'm not sure about Odyssey's 24V system - our NovaKool was designed to shut down when the battery dropped to around 10V.

We had a battery monitor & 3 stage charging system on our 31' - when plugged to shorepower, the charger always kept the batteries well above the 10V.
This seems to be the key... to have the charging system kick in before the fridge battery protection circuit cuts out. If that is the case then I would agree that the AC unit is an unecessary expense.
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Old 11-29-2017, 11:03 PM   #10
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DC Fridges

Hi Folks,

I am planning my rebuild and really liked the fact I stumbled onto this forum.

I am seriously considering the NOVA COLD 9cu ft DC only model. I like the weight as well at 43 pounds it kills the competition. The AH draw is well below most of the others I can see the data on. Here are two other fridges I found which are direct competitors:

NORCOLD DE-0061 AC/DC Refrigerator 7.0 cu ft $1389 USD 3.5A@12V 105lb

ISOTHERM Cruise 195 Refrigerator Draw: 2.8A @ 12V (each compressor - 5A total) 6.9cu.ft. (4.6cu.ft. refrigerator; 2.3cu.ft. freezer) 93lbs $2200 USD

In my mind and from what I have read the NOVA COLD beats everyone else in all areas. And the low voltage shut down is really a battery saver. I have 1KW of solar planned and a generator plus all the goodness of monitors can deliver. I think for boon docking this is the way to go.
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Old 11-30-2017, 08:58 AM   #11
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Quote:
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And the low voltage shut down is really a battery saver.
Make sure there is a way to monitor if the low voltage shutdown actually shuts down the unit. You do not want a case of salmonella or botulism due to your food getting warm due to a low-voltage shutdown followed by the unit automatically restarting and colling things down again after bacteria have a chance to grow on/in the food.

The technique I use in my Airstream Interstate's Nova Kool fridge only coasts a penny. Take a small plastic dish (an empty Jell-O cup is ideal) and fill it with water. Freeze it. Put a penny on top. Check it periodically.

As long as the penny stays on top of the ice, you know that there has been no thawing of frozen foods. But if the penny is ever inside the ice, or worse, all the way on the bottom, then you know that thawing has occurred, and it's best to discard the food that was in the fridge.

I learned this trick long before I had an Airstream, since it's pretty common in the New Orleans metro area, where power outages are as common as thunderstorms.
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Old 08-26-2020, 07:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post
Make sure there is a way to monitor if the low voltage shutdown actually shuts down the unit. You do not want a case of salmonella or botulism due to your food getting warm due to a low-voltage shutdown followed by the unit automatically restarting and colling things down again after bacteria have a chance to grow on/in the food.

The technique I use in my Airstream Interstate's Nova Kool fridge only coasts a penny. Take a small plastic dish (an empty Jell-O cup is ideal) and fill it with water. Freeze it. Put a penny on top. Check it periodically.

As long as the penny stays on top of the ice, you know that there has been no thawing of frozen foods. But if the penny is ever inside the ice, or worse, all the way on the bottom, then you know that thawing has occurred, and it's best to discard the food that was in the fridge.

I learned this trick long before I had an Airstream, since it's pretty common in the New Orleans metro area, where power outages are as common as thunderstorms.
I'm also looking at a Nova Kool to replace the Domestic in our 2019 FC 28 RB that has trouble keeping cold when temps hit the 80's. It was at the dealer's for 5 weeks and they couldn't duplicate the problem, but I think we will replace it in the next year anyway.

For keep tabs on the temp/humidity, I have a remote temp/humidity logging sensor. It takes readings once a second and stores up to 20 days worth of data, as long as you keep connecting via BlueTooth on your phone (there is a great app) it never drops data. I bought it to keep tabs on the temp/humidity in our rig while we store it beside our house. An increase in humidity would be a red flag for a leak. When we started having problems with the fridge, I put it in the fridge and found I could still check the sensor from in our house. I plan on getting another one for the fridge only. This way here I will know if anything ever gets out of whack.
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