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Old 06-12-2019, 05:29 PM   #15
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Yellow powder or traces on fridge coils?

Suggest u check back of fridge area for traces of yellow powder which would indicate an ammonia leak at coils. If u have a hot heating element you should have some cold coils on the back side. The cooling units if bad can be replaced with a new set a much lower cost. I bought one from a Canadian company and installed it with a lifetime warranty. Obvious much better quality than original mfgr unit!!! Good luck...
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:33 PM   #16
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Just a thought, when you were boondocking and on the road it was running on propane, did you try manually switching it over to gas from electric? I find that running gas will get it colder faster, maybe the electric just can't keep up for conditions or has some other electrical issue?

Yellow dust is always a dead give-away for a leak. I had one that wouldn't cool on propane but would on electric and found that the vent pipe that propane heats actually got plugged with insulation (non-airstream trailer) so it couldn't vent properly causing it to shut down. May want to check to make sure your top vent is clear and something didn't decide to take up residency in it (mudd wasps, or maybe something got blown in on the road blocking it?)...
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:41 PM   #17
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Ok, we got ice from the ice machine and added it to many containers and placed them in the fridge cabinet to help the fridge regain its mojo. Came back today from 7 hours at the Magic Kingdom to find the unit at 26 degrees. I immediately drank a very cold, refreshing beer!

So we learned some lessons and will be more experienced campers next time. Thanks for all the input.

These RV refrigerators are cantankerous, but manageable with some know-how and experience from the road...and of course the forum!
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Old Yesterday, 02:55 PM   #18
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Trip not ruined...operation on gas is sketchy

OK, we made it home...the Disney trip was not ruined. The fridge kept up the entire time we were set up at Disney.


Upon returning home to PA today at around 3 PM, the fridge, having been running on gas for two days, was at around 50 degrees. The freezer seemed to be doing its job.


Can I not expect better performance on LP while on the road? Seems the electric is doing OK when set up at a campsite.


I had read in some of Dad's older service manuals/RV maintenance books that the refrigerators actually run/cool better on LP as the flame is hotter than the electric heating element. I wonder if this is not true of the newer refrigerators?


What do we do when we are boondocking and do not have access to ice to "help" the refrigerator along? We did that down in Florida as mentioned in a previous post, and got it cold.
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Old Yesterday, 03:44 PM   #19
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Glad you were resourceful enough to make "lemonade" out of the situation.

There's a number of things you can check and do to hopefully gain the performance you expect. I believe you said this is a new refrigerator in an older trailer?

1) LP Pressure regulator - How old is the pressure regulator in the trailer? Older units have known to worn resulting in ultimately less propane pressure. The fridge in particular is sensitive to sufficient pressure to perform optimally.
2) LP Pressure calibration - When's the last time the pressure was set? Ideally, it should be set to 11.5" of water. Some fridges can be boosted in performance by a bit more pressure.
3) Circulation fans - I know you said you installed one on the inside and outside of the unit. In particular, the outside one needs to be configured properly. It's not good enough to just have a fan blowing on the rear. Ideally this fan is situated at the top of the chimney to work with convection and pull hot air up and out of the rear cavity.

Good luck!
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Old Yesterday, 03:53 PM   #20
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One problem is the fridges get installed in spaces without enough ventilation. I'll bet your fridge does not vent the heat out the roof.
There may also not be enough space for airflow.
One solution is to install some fans in the space to help the air move out. There are some really elegant creations from individuals. They can be 120v. or 12 v.
I also discovered on my last trip not to stack food near the thermocouple. (That wire on the fins) I was worried mine wasn't working (46) and moved the food away and the next morning it was 35 inside the fridge! I don't know why this worked, but it seemed too.
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Old Yesterday, 03:57 PM   #21
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I would first look UP or down the chimney. If Santa got stuck and died up there, then the hot exhaust gasses would get trapped inside the refrigerator's surround. Of course it could be a blockage of leaves, birds nest or even mud daubers. Don't forget the oxygen supply side either. Are the louvers in the side access panels clear? Do your model have a hole cut in the subfloor with coarse screen over it to allow air in? Is it open?
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Old Yesterday, 07:11 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pteck View Post
Glad you were resourceful enough to make "lemonade" out of the situation.

There's a number of things you can check and do to hopefully gain the performance you expect. I believe you said this is a new refrigerator in an older trailer?

1) LP Pressure regulator - How old is the pressure regulator in the trailer? Older units have known to worn resulting in ultimately less propane pressure. The fridge in particular is sensitive to sufficient pressure to perform optimally.
2) LP Pressure calibration - When's the last time the pressure was set? Ideally, it should be set to 11.5" of water. Some fridges can be boosted in performance by a bit more pressure.
3) Circulation fans - I know you said you installed one on the inside and outside of the unit. In particular, the outside one needs to be configured properly. It's not good enough to just have a fan blowing on the rear. Ideally this fan is situated at the top of the chimney to work with convection and pull hot air up and out of the rear cavity.

Good luck!

The regulator is 2-3 years old. The entire propane system was installed, soup to nuts, by a former student of mine who is an RV tech and does it for a living.


I do not know about calibration. I will check with my former student and see if he can perform a calibration and see if it can possibly be boosted to improve performance.


I do have circulation fans (110v) and a thermostatic switch. They are not hooked up yet...but, like I said, it runs fine on electric, and those fans, were they hooked up, would not have done me any good these past two days on the road, as we were not hooked up to 110v anyway.


Thanks for the advice. I will get calibration on the list before our next trip.
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Old Yesterday, 07:13 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foiled Again View Post
I would first look UP or down the chimney. If Santa got stuck and died up there, then the hot exhaust gasses would get trapped inside the refrigerator's surround. Of course it could be a blockage of leaves, birds nest or even mud daubers. Don't forget the oxygen supply side either. Are the louvers in the side access panels clear? Do your model have a hole cut in the subfloor with coarse screen over it to allow air in? Is it open?

My model has the hole in the floor with course screen. It is open and the chimney goes clear to the roof. The hole in the floor is clear...I will take a look at the chimney.
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Old Today, 12:50 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA BAMBI II View Post
The regulator is 2-3 years old. The entire propane system was installed, soup to nuts, by a former student of mine who is an RV tech and does it for a living.


I do not know about calibration. I will check with my former student and see if he can perform a calibration and see if it can possibly be boosted to improve performance.


I do have circulation fans (110v) and a thermostatic switch. They are not hooked up yet...but, like I said, it runs fine on electric, and those fans, were they hooked up, would not have done me any good these past two days on the road, as we were not hooked up to 110v anyway.


Thanks for the advice. I will get calibration on the list before our next trip.
Some have said to turn the regulator adjuster another half turn clockwise, and see if it makes any difference.

Circulations fans come in 12V form and can be wired right into the 12V power that feeds the fridge at the back.

Here's a great high quality IP67 rated fan - https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12...tronics&sr=1-5
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