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Old 06-24-2011, 11:33 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by YankeeDoodle View Post
I believe the function of the IGN wire was to automatically switch the fridge to 12v operation when power was available from the alternator when the engine was running. In the trailer environment, this would require a 9-pin trailer connector.
The old Dometic 1303 fridges don't operate on 12v, 120 AC or propane only. They only use the 12v to power the circuit board.
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Old 06-25-2011, 08:37 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vswingfield
The old Dometic 1303 fridges don't operate on 12v, 120 AC or propane only. They only use the 12v to power the circuit board.
I agree that most were either never connected to run on 12v and there may have been some sub-models that didn't include the 12v heating element but I had one that did. If you refer to the installation and op guide for the RM1303 I posted a link to earlier in this thread you will see both heating elements are in the chimney assembly. Further down are the wiring directions to enable the 12v operation in either a MH or a TT.

It is rare to find a TT and a TV with a 9-way connector. If the 12v line was simply tied to the house battery circuit, it would run the battery down quickly. Thus the requirement for a high current capable charge line (#8 minimum) and a vehicle ignition sense line for the fridge to operate on 12v. I think the 12v element drew 10A. The TV would require specific wiring for this, so as a practical matter, it was rarely enabled in travel trailers.
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Old 06-25-2011, 09:14 AM   #17
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I used to own a Hi-Lo trailer that had a 3 way fridge that could operate on 12 volts and used the trailer battery. The battery in turn received charge from the tow vehicle. I used to travel on the road with it in 12 volt mode. It all worked great as long as the tow vehicle Bargman connector and the trailer umbilical made good connection. As those contacts corroded over time, the amperage was reduced. Hi-Lo's were telescopic trailers and the lifting mechanism was 12 volt powered. Nothing was more frustrating than to arrive at a campground and find that the trailer battery was dead due to the fact that the amperage flow was reduced due to dirty connectors. I used to carry a thin metal file that I would use to make the connectors on the tow vehicle and trailer plug "clean" prior to leaving on a trip.

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Old 06-25-2011, 10:30 AM   #18
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rvmobile.com has great information and schematics on all kinds of RV fridges. They did good work for us when our cooling unit needed rebuilding.
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Old 06-25-2011, 11:43 AM   #19
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Okay nothing......on 110v........the green light is on.....I've recycled the fridge ON/OFF switch more times than I care to admit.......I think the way way to go is find a RM 2820.

This thread is dead..... Thanks Guys

Shame because it look's great and is very clean.
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Old 06-25-2011, 12:16 PM   #20
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Heating element

Have you checked to see if there is 120 volts going to the heating element? If so,and there is; it may be a bad heating element. The element is located in the stack near where the burner is. Look for 2 high temp wires and follow them. A new heating element is a cheap fix. You could wire a heating element directly just to test it and the cooling unit.

Don't give up yet!!!
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Old 06-25-2011, 02:23 PM   #21
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It may take more than just a couple hours for the frig to feel cool, more like 10 or 12 if everything in it is warm. jim
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Old 06-25-2011, 03:12 PM   #22
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If you decide to try it on gas you probably will find that it will take multiple ignitions before it begins to work. You will hear a snapping from the ignitor. It it lights and stays lit you will see the green light, indicating gas, stay lit. If that ignition sequence fails the green light will go out. So stay nearby and keep an eye on it. Once the pilot lights the gas will flow. It won't flow without the pilot being lit. But staying nearby will allow you to watch for the light and listen for the ignition and if all else fails smell gas to indicate a problem. When ours has been off for awhile or gas disconnected for re-fill I find it will take many ignition sequences to purge the air from the line. But then it works nicely after that. Don't be afraid to try it on gas just be aware of and alert for any gas leaks.

Ours is, I think, original to the trailer and 26 yrs. old and works like a charm.
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Old 06-26-2011, 09:29 PM   #23
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Okay now you've inspired me to try to fix this thing.........It's so clean and nice....it must be something simple.
I cant find anything wrong except the two wires were loose on the back and I had no batteries. I went out and bought 2 new DieHards......and am hooked up to a 30 amp Power Source......green lite is on......on 110v but nothing...

Wont light on Gas BUT I noticed there is no iginition wire from the 12V source to the circuit board (see the far left slot in picture above) Do you have to HAVE this for the IGNITER to work? I really would be happy if this thing would just run on 110V.
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Old 06-26-2011, 11:24 PM   #24
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OK Lets find the wires that go to the heating element. Can you post a photo or two of all of the wiring on the back of the unit?
Do you know where the burner is?
If so, just above and to the left of the burner there may be 2 wires going in behind the sheet metal covers.
Can you also post photos of the controls inside the refer?
Can you locate the outlet that the refer is plugged into?
Do you have a 120 volt circuit tester? Similar to the one in this photo. If not, it would be a good tool to have on hand. Cost less than $10.00

You should first verify that you have 120 volts at the outlet for the refer.
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Old 06-27-2011, 05:26 PM   #25
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Okay thanks ALL:

Here's where we are

It's a RM 1303 AES........no way to switch from gas to electric it does it by itself....it's the "Old Style"

Yes GOOD 12v
Yes good GAS (checked flow on and have plently stove)
Yes GOOD 110v at plug
Yes good heating element (looks to be almost new)
Yes on Green LED light and I can turn Fridge ON/OFF with Power Switch
No Ammonia or yellow powder leaks....
No heating element on 110v/GAS doesn't even get warm
No "click" when I rotate the white GAS knob to right

Im trying to pull the circuit board and will jump the thermostat tabs....Chad at Dinasaur Electronics did a great job of walking me through the steps....

I'll post in a bit...what I find.
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