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Old 02-10-2006, 09:16 AM   #15
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Two items...
1. I think that 2-way is the most practical for trailering, since all power needs to go through the 'umbilical cord." We had 2-ways since we started trailering in the mid-70's.

2. I have the original Dometic from our 89 Excella that is available. Blown cooling unit, but shelves, doors, etc are OK. I wanted to remove the wood inserts and transfer them to our new unit, but have never been able to figure out how to remove them. ...More importantly, how to install them in the new refer (they don't flex like the plexiglass ones!).

jim
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Old 02-10-2006, 09:36 AM   #16
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service manual

hi- The Airstream Service Manual for your year tells you (the service technician) how to remove, repair, or replace everything in or on your coach. It includes a section just on the fridges available for that year. They are available from Secretarial Services, box 484, Sidney, Ohio, 45365. They also come up on ebay if you keep looking.I have found mine to be invaluable. -tim
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Old 02-10-2006, 01:50 PM   #17
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Manual refers to A/C v Propane cycle

There are some refrigerators that require you to "Manually" switch from Propane Gas burning mode to 110V electrical mode. Those are manual models. Most newer ones have electronic circuitry that senses presence of 110V electricity and will shut off gas and use electrical power to heat element when docked...

John McG

> another vote for 2-way v. 3 way options... And rebuilding rusted vintage unit is big challenge. I'd let really dedicated restorer try it, if they wanted to pick it up, since UPS won't want to move it around for you...
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Old 02-10-2006, 02:45 PM   #18
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This may be a lame question, but here it goes:
The new fridge is 120V/LP - Is 110 what I need to search out or does the 1968 support a 120 fridge?? My manual doesn't say.

And will the old venting "system" work with a new fridge that is almost the same size?
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Old 02-10-2006, 04:32 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
This may be a lame question, but here it goes:
The new fridge is 120V/LP - Is 110 what I need to search out or does the 1968 support a 120 fridge?? My manual doesn't say.

And will the old venting "system" work with a new fridge that is almost the same size?
110v/120v is the same, essentially. Obviously, there is a 10v difference, but the stuff that comes out of the wall in your house will be in that range (and by extension, the wall of your trailer when plugged into shore power).

I read a good explanation by one of the forum members concerning the way the electricty delivered to your home by the power company varies in voltage, but I can't remember where it is right now.

The venting system......hummm. I suspect that somebody on the forum has dealt with this, keep searching. One thing is very certain, that vent needs to work absoluetly corrrectly because of the danger of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Hope this helps.

P.S. Thanks for this thread, tphan got me pointed in the right direction concerning the repair of my own Dometic because of this thread!

Jim
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Old 02-10-2006, 05:23 PM   #20
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Sequoia,

The vent tube (flue tube) is a very important and integral part of the generator (heating section) of your fridge. It should be kept clean of rust and scale, the baffle (spiral piece of metal suspended inside the tube) should also be clean. It is usually suspended by a precise length of wire as it's position is critical to the efficient operation of the unit. This section of the unit is responsible for the proper heating of the hydrogen/ammonia mix contained in the cooling unit. If the heaqt is not precisely applied to the mixture you will not get proper cooling inside the unit.

A major overhaul of a generator section should also be accompanied by a burner and igniter/electrode overhaul as well to insure that the entire generator section is in good working order. These units are hermetically sealed and will work for a long time with the correct maintenance.
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Old 02-10-2006, 11:19 PM   #21
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Thank you all for the input and good info!!
Okay, so on the old fridge the vent tube and baffle deal is seriously in need of an over-haul. It is pretty rusted and the baffle wouldn't push back down. The tube surrounding the baffle/wire has lost part of its bottom AND there seems to have been something else into that tube that has desintagrated.
Without doing something about this can I even plug it in to determine if it will run - or is that dangerous (or just a waste of time)?

Anyone near Northern California want to take it FREE????
If I can't get rid of it, I might be able to part it out, though I must admit I'd rather get it out of my garage all together.

On to the new one I'm about to order... the venting (plastic channel riveted to the wall) looks to have been modified to fit the fridge. From what I can tell the fridge is original but the plastic channel is roughly cut and seems to have extra rivets on the wall where maybe the rest of it used to be. The fridge had attatched to it a strip of metal (like a 'V')that went into the plastic. Anyway, the set up previously didn't strike me as real "safe". The gases were encouraged to go up this channel, but still could seep through the counter top and cabinetry. No? It seems there should be an impregnable "exhaust" directly vented to the outside (like the furnace).

Was mine lacking or is everyones like that - Or is is an old and inadequate design. OR am I just paranoid??
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Old 02-10-2006, 11:44 PM   #22
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Paranoid? Who's Paranoid?

Are people watching us? Reading our thoughts posted here? Do you see people others don't? Can you hear the voices in your head? Who's paranoid? Not me... Not since the shock treatments and the injections....Where are my pills!!!!! Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgh! Do I have spiderwebs on my face? OOOH NOOO! I think someone is following us ..... Quick pretend we're invisible! Yeah that's it ... invisible. Whoa!!! That was scary! Ed
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Old 02-13-2006, 09:56 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
It seems there should be an impregnable "exhaust" directly vented to the outside (like the furnace). Was mine lacking or is everyones like that - Or is is an old and inadequate design. OR am I just paranoid??
Sequoiacoast, where Carbon monoxide is concerned, I consider a little paranoia to be justified. I once walked into a room where a mother and daughter were sitting watching TV on Christmas Eve, and both were dead, poisoned by carbon monoxide from a defective chimney. You need either an exhaust directly to the outside, or an exhaust into a sealed compartment which is itself vented directly to the outside. The latter is a common solution, with a low vent for fresh air intake, and a roof vent for exhaust. The front face of the refer is a tight fit in the front of the compartment. A 12 volt fan can be fitted to improve the flow through the compartment. Take care.
Nick.
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Old 02-15-2006, 09:44 PM   #24
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RM 2301 Replacement

After my last trip, our fridge has a mind of it's own. It just works when it wants and not when I want. It is an old Dometic RM 2301, 2.9 cubic footer. I saw a conversion chart on the Dometic web site but it did not show a conversion for a 2301. And my second plea for help would be some recommendations of dealers on the net that sell NEW refrigerators and AC units. I am leaning to a Duo Therm AC unit. Thanks
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Old 02-16-2006, 09:51 PM   #25
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I ordered my new Dometic from Palomino (800)297-5830. I read somewhere on the forum about them, search Palomino for more details. I think they have quite a bit of stuff. Their price was by far cheaper than any of the sale prices I have found. My fridge will be 5 cu. ft. I called with the part # that I got off the Dometic site. It will be a little bigger than my old one but I have everything out so I can re-do the cabinet easily.
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