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sequoiacoast · 02-08-2006, 07:07 PM

I am currently in the process of gutting my '68 Tradewind and the refer is the item on its way out. I have not tried it to see if it works, or how well. But since I am removing it and it is not fun I'm considering replacement, as not to do it again... at least for a loooong time.
So, I am thining about a RM 2554 3-way from I don't know yet - got the #s from Dometic.com. Is 3-way what I need?
I'm torn because of the price, but to have new sure seems reassuring. Anyone have convictions????
Thanks!!!

87MH · 02-08-2006, 07:15 PM

I do not think a three way would be cost efficient in a trailer - you would need a really big wire from the alternator all of the way to the reefer in order to get enough voltage to the heat element to do any good (I think the sensor needs 13.6 volts to switch to the 12 volt boiler heater in the fridge). Lots of voltage losses come with the big amperage draw.

During the relatively short periods the trailer will actually be in tow behind the vehicle, a small bag of ice would probably keep things cool.

Any time the trailer is not being towed the 120 volt boiler heater or gas operation is an option.

I'd vote for the two-way.

davidz71 · 02-08-2006, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoiacoast

I am currently in the process of gutting my '68 Tradewind and the refer is the item on its way out. I have not tried it to see if it works, or how well. But since I am removing it and it is not fun I'm considering replacement, as not to do it again... at least for a loooong time.
So, I am thining about a RM 2554 3-way from I don't know yet - got the #s from Dometic.com. Is 3-way what I need?
I'm torn because of the price, but to have new sure seems reassuring. Anyone have convictions????
Thanks!!!

I just had this discussion with a friend who bought a used SOB last year. He said he had never used the refrigerator and didn't even know if it worked. He said that he thought it was a 110v/LPG 2 way unit. We discussed the relative merits of the 2 way vs. the 3 way. I have heard that in the 12v. mode, the unit really eats up the battery energy. I could only see one reason for the 12 volt and that would be while on the highway and not wanting to run the LPG. You need a high performance alternator in my opinion and I wouldn't think about anything less than a 175 amp unit. I have had two of the 2 way units and have been happy with the way they worked so maybe my opinions are misplaced.

How about you 3 way owners, pros/cons and is it worth the extra $$$.

Cedars · 02-08-2006, 07:33 PM

Our unit came with the original (1983) three way Dometic. After checking with our RV tech, he said, Why would you WANT to run on DC? It only holds the temp, it won't actually cool food. That's all I know, and it was told to me! Now, having said all the above, I must admit at first we ran our fridge on DC a lot while under way! Also forgot to swith it a time or two, and did not have any extraordinary drain on the batteries!

Elizabeth in Iowa

lewster · 02-08-2006, 07:37 PM

Sequoia,

The 3 way was originally produced so you could keep the refer going when you stopped to fill up a Moho......you have to shut the propane off when gassing up and the refer would then have no power. They ARE very picky about the input 12VDC as a 3-way AS 87 said. The extra cost IMHO does not justify the DC operational option. Go with a 2-way. Plus, it's way simpler to fix if it goes down.

BIGED52 · 02-08-2006, 11:35 PM

Sequoiacoast, The 2 Way Seems The Better Choice Imho. How Does It Measure Up To The 3 Way In Cost? I Would Think That Would Help Make The Decision For You As The Dc Mode Would Not Be Of Very Good Use To You For Boondocking Unless Done With A Generator To Restore Battery Charge. Are You Going To Scrap The Old Fridge? If So Pm Me As I Need Some Parts To Restore Mine. Ed

Chaplain Kent · 02-09-2006, 06:35 AM

We have a three way and we generally only use it on DC only for the first day out. After that the fridge is cold enough, most of the time too cold, to last the day before we get hooked back to shore power. Keep in mind that we also use the fridge all day by opening the door for drinks or food as we drive and it still stays cold.

Boondocker · 02-09-2006, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoiacoast

I am currently in the process of gutting my '68 Tradewind and the refer is the item on its way out. I have not tried it to see if it works, or how well. But since I am removing it and it is not fun I'm considering replacement, as not to do it again... at least for a loooong time.
So, I am thining about a RM 2554 3-way from I don't know yet - got the #s from Dometic.com. Is 3-way what I need?
I'm torn because of the price, but to have new sure seems reassuring. Anyone have convictions????
Thanks!!!

Oddly enough I was in a very similar situation last fall. I have a '68 Trade Wind in which the original fridge had been replaced with an electric. Since I am a boondocker that wasnt going to fly. I went ahead and bought a new fridge and put it in. I can get the details about that unit if you want.

As to your situation, here is what I suggest. First, check and see if the thing works. It may be fine and if it is why spend a grand on another one? Second, my experience was that changing out the fridge wasnt that big of a deal so having to replace your current on in another year or so wouldnt be the end of the world.

tphan · 02-09-2006, 08:08 AM

I agree with the general, give the old one a chance unless you just have a burning desire to have a brand new one. The service manuals describe how the things work, how to clean and inspect the various elements, and how to change them out if faulty. I re-habbed mine according to those instructions and it now works fine on both electric and gas, cost $16 for one small part.You can add a different front panel, on the door, if you want a more modern look. You will then have about $970 left for all your other goodies! Just an idea- tim

Pick · 02-09-2006, 08:08 AM

We have an apartment style 120 vac unit in ours. Most of the time we are hooked to electric at home or campsite. If boondocking the Honda generator provides power for the fridge.

nickcrowhurst · 02-09-2006, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidz71

How about you 3 way owners, pros/cons and is it worth the extra $$$.

I have a 3-way Dometic, and by coincidence I used it on 12 volt today as I knew I would be re-fuelling near the beginning of the road trip, and wished to avoid turning the fridge off and on when using propane. The charging system in my truck is not sufficient to maintain the trailer batteries when the refer is on 12 volt, and I would need to fit thicker wiring, and perhaps a higher capacity alternator to do this. I don't believe the 12 v facility is worth the extra complexity and expense. If my 3-way fails, I will probably replace it with a 2-way.
Nick.

sequoiacoast · 02-09-2006, 09:17 PM

Thank you all!
I did get the fridge out today, at least into the center of the floor. The back of it looks a little scary. Major rust in places. The "flu" - thing is corroded and missing part of it. I would love to save the money, but after wrestling this one out and intending to put everything back for "good", I wonder if I shouldn't bite the bullet now? If the new unit is a little bigger I would have to re-do the cabinet.
So 2-way is fine. Good news. What does "manual" mean. I found one for 450.00 5 cu/ft. RMR2501.
Gen, What DID you put in, and where'd you find it... etc.??
If mine works... and I decide to scrap it... how should I "give it away"? I could part it, but easier to get rid of it entirely?

BIGED52 · 02-10-2006, 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoiacoast

Thank you all!
I did get the fridge out today, at least into the center of the floor. The back of it looks a little scary. Major rust in places. The "flu" - thing is corroded and missing part of it. I would love to save the money, but after wrestling this one out and intending to put everything back for "good", I wonder if I shouldn't bite the bullet now? If the new unit is a little bigger I would have to re-do the cabinet.
So 2-way is fine. Good news. What does "manual" mean. I found one for 450.00 5 cu/ft. RMR2501.
Gen, What DID you put in, and where'd you find it... etc.??
If mine works... and I decide to scrap it... how should I "give it away"? I could part it, but easier to get rid of it entirely?

Dan, It may be very hard to give it away or sell it whole as shipping would be outrageous. You might give it away or sell it complete to someone who lives close to you and could pick it up. I only suggested parting it out as you stated you were in the process of getting rid of it. Also I need interior parts and a front door that you would just be discarding otherwise. I would be willing to pay the shipping on them if you make up your mind to part it out. If so and you need to sell parts I can let you know what ones I want and you can tell me if you have those parts, in good condition, and what you may want to sell them for. That's why I wanted to know....your decision. Ed

Jim & Susan · 02-10-2006, 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoiacoast

...... What does "manual" mean. I found one for 450.00 5 cu/ft. RMR2501.....

This is my question as well, where can you find these manuals? I would like to rehab the 1973 era Dometic in our trailer.

Jim

OreExcella · 02-10-2006, 08:16 AM

Two items...
1. I think that 2-way is the most practical for trailering, since all power needs to go through the 'umbilical cord." We had 2-ways since we started trailering in the mid-70's.

2. I have the original Dometic from our 89 Excella that is available. Blown cooling unit, but shelves, doors, etc are OK. I wanted to remove the wood inserts and transfer them to our new unit, but have never been able to figure out how to remove them. ...More importantly, how to install them in the new refer (they don't flex like the plexiglass ones!).

jim

tphan · 02-10-2006, 08:36 AM

hi- The Airstream Service Manual for your year tells you (the service technician) how to remove, repair, or replace everything in or on your coach. It includes a section just on the fridges available for that year. They are available from Secretarial Services, box 484, Sidney, Ohio, 45365. They also come up on ebay if you keep looking.I have found mine to be invaluable. -tim

Condoluminum · 02-10-2006, 12:50 PM

There are some refrigerators that require you to "Manually" switch from Propane Gas burning mode to 110V electrical mode. Those are manual models. Most newer ones have electronic circuitry that senses presence of 110V electricity and will shut off gas and use electrical power to heat element when docked...

John McG

> another vote for 2-way v. 3 way options... And rebuilding rusted vintage unit is big challenge. I'd let really dedicated restorer try it, if they wanted to pick it up, since UPS won't want to move it around for you...

sequoiacoast · 02-10-2006, 01:45 PM

This may be a lame question, but here it goes:
The new fridge is 120V/LP - Is 110 what I need to search out or does the 1968 support a 120 fridge?? My manual doesn't say.

And will the old venting "system" work with a new fridge that is almost the same size?

Jim & Susan · 02-10-2006, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoiacoast

This may be a lame question, but here it goes:
The new fridge is 120V/LP - Is 110 what I need to search out or does the 1968 support a 120 fridge?? My manual doesn't say.

And will the old venting "system" work with a new fridge that is almost the same size?

110v/120v is the same, essentially. Obviously, there is a 10v difference, but the stuff that comes out of the wall in your house will be in that range (and by extension, the wall of your trailer when plugged into shore power).

I read a good explanation by one of the forum members concerning the way the electricty delivered to your home by the power company varies in voltage, but I can't remember where it is right now.

The venting system......hummm. I suspect that somebody on the forum has dealt with this, keep searching. One thing is very certain, that vent needs to work absoluetly corrrectly because of the danger of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Hope this helps.

P.S. Thanks for this thread, tphan got me pointed in the right direction concerning the repair of my own Dometic because of this thread!

Jim

lewster · 02-10-2006, 04:23 PM

Sequoia,

The vent tube (flue tube) is a very important and integral part of the generator (heating section) of your fridge. It should be kept clean of rust and scale, the baffle (spiral piece of metal suspended inside the tube) should also be clean. It is usually suspended by a precise length of wire as it's position is critical to the efficient operation of the unit. This section of the unit is responsible for the proper heating of the hydrogen/ammonia mix contained in the cooling unit. If the heaqt is not precisely applied to the mixture you will not get proper cooling inside the unit.

A major overhaul of a generator section should also be accompanied by a burner and igniter/electrode overhaul as well to insure that the entire generator section is in good working order. These units are hermetically sealed and will work for a long time with the correct maintenance.