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Old 06-15-2013, 07:50 AM   #1
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1990 32' Excella
Adirondack Mountains , New York
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Lost Power to Refrig

It seems that I do not have power to the AE control panel on my Dometic RM3804. The AS is currently at our camping spot and I came home to pick up volt meter to see if I can troubleshot the problem. My refer is plugged into an outlet located behind the refer, I'm hoping to start there and trace where the power ends. Any and all suggestions welcomed.

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Old 06-15-2013, 07:58 AM   #2
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Have you checked fuses?


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Old 06-15-2013, 08:16 AM   #3
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Check the refridg circuit board fuses then the board itself.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:09 AM   #4
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that breaker might be on a gfci. try resetting (full off then on) the 120 volt breakers. with all the rain we've had, dampness might have tripped the breaker.
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Old 06-15-2013, 03:29 PM   #5
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On most 2-way fridges the control panel is 12v not 120V.
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Old 06-15-2013, 06:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richinny View Post
that breaker might be on a gfci. try resetting (full off then on) the 120 volt breakers. with all the rain we've had, dampness might have tripped the breaker.
I agree with Ricky.... First check to make sure the GFCI has not tripped...the 110 plug at the back of our frig is on the same circuit. On our rig, you have to switch the breaker (in the fuse panel) all the way off and then back on to reset (you can't do it at the outlet).
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:17 PM   #7
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Just arrived home with the AS. All breakers looked good (not tripped) but I didn't't cycle the GFI. I checked the fuse next to the fan and it was OK.Right now a cup of coffee is the priority after that it's still early so I'll plug her in and see what I can find.

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Old 06-16-2013, 10:49 AM   #8
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Thanks for the pointers. There were 3 fuses @5amp and one was blown. Never knew they were even there. I had every amp but 5. Look like standard automotive fuses. Off to find a box of fuses and leave the remainder in the Refrig compartment.
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Old 06-16-2013, 12:15 PM   #9
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Just blew two fuses. We did have a lot of rain and the condensate hose runs to a evaporate box and that was full of water and I noticed a little on the floor of the compartment. Just started raining so I closed up everything and will try and dry out compartment with a hair dryer.
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Old 06-20-2013, 03:25 PM   #10
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Dried out the access area. All fuses are good. I have 120V coming into the terminal block and 12VDC feeding a different block. I still have no power to upper control board (no indicator lights) and no power to various 12VDC circuits. I'm thinking the lower board is shot as that feeds the upper control circuit board. Well, as Luck would have it I found a box of electrical parts for a RM3804 on the forum's classified. Just waiting on where to send the dough, the seller is working up shipping costs. I replaced the ammonia coil in 2009 and now with these parts I'll have just about everything else.
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:21 PM   #11
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the boards might have a fuse on them.
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Old 06-21-2013, 05:29 AM   #12
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There are 3- 5amp fuses on the board and 2 buss fuses and all are good. I have 12V and 120V going to their respective inputs but when I check for power at various 12V points noted on the diagram I have none and no power to the controls.
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:10 PM   #13
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Sounds like your board went south.I switched to a Dinosaur brand as the are much more reliable than the standard oem board and more durable..
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:37 AM   #14
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I'm thinking it's the board also. When I pull it off I'll be able to visual check out the back of the board for any shorts. Can't wait until I get the parts that I found on the forums classifieds.
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:38 PM   #15
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Received the used parts yesterday, Thanks again James from Texas. Raining most of the day so far so I'll have to work on it tomorrow, weather permitting. Compared boards and they are a little different, but all the connectors have a spot to plug into and traced back to the appropriate function. One difference is that the old board had 3- 5amp fuses and the replacement board has none.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:20 AM   #16
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Couldn't just change out the circuit board because the gas valve was different and had wires going to the old circuit board. So changed out entire assembly with the "new" used parts and changed out the upper control board. Everything is working, YAHOO!! Tried the 110V and the heater started to get hot so I switched over to LP and the burner lit and all seems to be working. Waiting to cool down the refer and will let it run overnight and wait and see if it's still functioning. I'm still confused over the 12VDC terminal block where 12V comes in direct from the 12V side of the converter/charger. When I reinstalled the connections I put the 12V Hot (black wire) on the top terminal and the white wire on the center terminal and the unit didn't power up. When I switched the hot wire to the bottom I got power to the upper controls and everything started to work. I am wondering if I need to add a jumper from the bottom terminal to the top terminal? For now I'm going to leave well enough alone.

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Old 07-12-2013, 07:54 AM   #17
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Results are in. Ran for 8-9 hours on LP set on the coldest setting the freezer got to -1F. Didn't have a thermometer handy for the Refrig. portion. Switched to 110V and adjusted the thermostat to normal. Ran fine overnight with the freezer at 0F and the refer at 39F. It's nice to have a working frig back, I forgot what a pain it is when you have to drive out for ice every couple of days.
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