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59toaster · 05-22-2007, 09:44 PM

Well a Dometic RM1303 showed up three miles from my house on craigslist for FREE!

By By dorm fridge (now my new Beer fridge for the shop!

)

Actually looks in pretty good shape considering it is nearly 30 years old. No cracks on the interior, both drawers and 2 spare drawers. No tears in the seals.

It was pulled about 5-8 years ago because it would not switch modes (120,12,LP) I think it is a wiring problem. looks like somebody tried swapping out the LP control valve and pulled too hard on the wires and pulled the plug loose. Still testing it and will know for sure tomorrow night.

Somewhere a couple parts were lost off the LP fire box.
http://gasrefrigeration.net/dom_techdata/763_1303SM.PDF scroll down to page 2.
I need the retainer clip that holds the box to the flue to the right of #3. I need the small support that hold the end of the burner tube (#1). and I need the L shaped cover that goes over the flame assembly.

If you have one in the back 40 with the parts I may be interested.

Might be interested in a spare control board as well.

Thanks.

klattu · 05-23-2007, 03:49 AM

Now what parts are they?
I have a junk one will scarf from before it is junked.

overlander63 · 05-23-2007, 05:25 AM

Those fridges had a problem with the control board. It would stop switching when the board blew, and it seemed they would only do this while on 12v, so the easy solution is to not hook up the 12v cooling circuit. You will still need 12v for the LP valve, and ignitor (if it has one)

59toaster · 05-23-2007, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by klattu

Now what parts are they?
I have a junk one will scarf from before it is junked.

\
You are the man!!! I need D, C and B.
Let me play with it tonight and make sure that it will cool (I'll hot wire the 120v heater to test it). If that works then it will be worth a replacement control board if I cant fix the one in it.

My dad was a IBM main Frame repair man...he has a awesome set of tool only rivaled by My tools. I have a $700 Metcal.

If it cools I will be interested in those parts for sure!

I may be interested in the whole assembly down there with the board if its headed for the dump.
PM what you need for the parts.

Thanks!!!!

59toaster · 05-23-2007, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

Those fridges had a problem with the control board. It would stop switching when the board blew, and it seemed they would only do this while on 12v, so the easy solution is to not hook up the 12v cooling circuit. You will still need 12v for the LP valve, and ignitor (if it has one)

I have read that. Looks like the problem is they didn't fuse the one of the circuits and the heaters and right circumstances it would crispy the board. There is a couple tips of adding fuses to protect the board if its good. With a little luck maybe this has a good board and I can get it working.

Just read where you got clipped on the scooter. Glad to hear you are on the upswing.

markdoane · 05-23-2007, 01:38 PM

Eric,

Welcome back! Give us an update on the Caravanner, glad to hear from you again.

59toaster · 05-23-2007, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markdoane

Eric,

Welcome back! Give us an update on the Caravanner, glad to hear from you again.

I have had no time (or if I had time I had no money) to do anything with it for the last Year. I am actually getting some head way to work on it. When I make some prgress I will be sure to update my threads.

I need to go look and see where you have got with yours.

overlander63 · 05-23-2007, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 59toaster

Just read where you got clipped on the scooter. Glad to hear you are on the upswing.

It was more like a line drive to deep center field, but I'm still kicking.

Don't give up on the fridge if it needs a board, I can check at Bob's the next time I am up there.

59toaster · 05-23-2007, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

It was more like a line drive to deep center field, but I'm still kicking.

Don't give up on the fridge if it needs a board, I can check at Bob's the next time I am up there.

Haven't had time to really mess with it yet. Played with it for about 5 minutes tonight. Showing a Green light but no power on the heater. Found some very detailed tests on Dinosaur electronics and the factory manuals on PDF today but just too beat to mess with it tonight.

After reading their info I think that this already has a updated board in it. Need to check the part numbers.

Your wreck sounded scary.
I live three miles from work and I have a 65 Sears Alstate (125b Vespa) I was thinking of fixing up and commuting with. Between your wreck and another person I know getting taged on his Stella I am having second thoughts.

59toaster · 06-03-2007, 07:27 PM

Well it cools!!! not bad for a free fridge!

Some how the the Thermostat got unplugged. As soon and I plugged it back up the AC heater kicked in. 2 hours later the plate in the freezer was down to 2F.

Couple of the resistors look a little Crispy and I think they are blown. common parts so I can probably replace those for $4-5 with a quick trip to DAK. I need to pull the board and completely meter it out but I don't see any other hints of damage.

Read about fusing a couple of the circuits and that may prevent future damage. I need to meter out the heater elements as well to make sure they are not going bad and drawing an excessive amount of power.

After a couple more minutes of reading this:
http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/I..._Rev5_Inst.pdf
It looks like the gas valve was plugged into the wrong terminal and the cause of the damaged components.

old man listening · 06-13-2007, 12:42 PM

I have an RM 1303 that I am willing to part out. I can't get it to cool enough and believe the coils are bad. I have a new circuit board and thermostat in it. I'm sure the original circuit board is fine. The coils can be replaced for $480.00 and you would practically have a new refer. My wife won't wait a week for the coils or I would do that.

59toaster · 06-16-2007, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomwallek

I have an RM 1303 that I am willing to part out. I can't get it to cool enough and believe the coils are bad. I have a new circuit board and thermostat in it. I'm sure the original circuit board is fine. The coils can be replaced for $480.00 and you would practically have a new refer. My wife won't wait a week for the coils or I would do that.

Tom: Thanks for the reply. I would be interested in the board for sure and possibly the thermostat. let me know what you want for it.

Thanks.

Fast.Eddie · 07-11-2007, 05:17 PM

Quote:

I have an RM 1303 that I am willing to part out. I can't get it to cool enough and believe the coils are bad. I have a new circuit board and thermostat in it. I'm sure the original circuit board is fine. The coils can be replaced for $480.00 and you would practically have a new refer. My wife won't wait a week for the coils or I would do that.

Tom, I'm looking for some soft parts for the RM1303. I need the Travel Latch assembly, the upper freezer bin, and the lens for the interior light. If you are still parting your unit out and you have these parts (or some of the other interior plastic parts), let me know and maybe we can work a deal.

Thanks!

--Ed

bobpruner · 07-12-2007, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomwallek

I have an RM 1303 that I am willing to part out. I can't get it to cool enough and believe the coils are bad. I have a new circuit board and thermostat in it. I'm sure the original circuit board is fine. The coils can be replaced for $480.00 and you would practically have a new refer. My wife won't wait a week for the coils or I would do that.

Tom, Wondering if you still have the CONTROL BOARD for the RM1303 and if so, how much do you want for it? Thanks, Bob

DandTPerez · 12-30-2015, 07:29 PM

Ok this is a super old thread but I need help with our rm1303. A resistor is burnt on the board and my husband wants to replace it but it's toasted and he can't tell anything about it. Anyone have a pic of theirs? I can get a pic of ours tomorrow and show which one.

It's not working on 12v or 110 and it isn't cooling with the gas. It's been a giant pita trying to figure it out. But a burnt spot on the board seems like a good cause.

n2916s · 12-31-2015, 08:17 AM

Dinosaur makes "universal" boards and may have one that will work.

Before you go to that expense, you may want to try out the AC side by wiring the heating element directly to an 120 volt source, bypassing the board. It should heat up just fine and, if the reefer cools, it pretty much means the board is shot but the cooling plumbing is okay.

If you aren't comfortable around electricity, well maybe don't...

Mike

DandTPerez · 01-01-2016, 01:08 PM

My husband can try that. But the element heats up and you hear the ammonia circulating and it all gets hot with the gas, but it never gets cool. He left it on for 2 days and it got hot but nothing was cooling. I guess because its so old Im having trouble finding info on it.

n2916s · 01-01-2016, 03:45 PM

If the heating element is getting hot and you still have no cooling, then the cooling unit itself has failed. Ours did this about 8 years ago when a hole rusted through the tubing.

You can replace the whole thing but what we did was replace just the cooling unit (our box was good as was our board). I think we got ours from RVrefrigeration.net but there are several companies that do rebuilds. If memory serves it was a little less than $400.

It took longer to remove and replace the refrigerator than it took to swap out the cooling unit and, as noted, 8 years of half-timing later it still works great.

Good luck!

Mike

Fast.Eddie · 01-01-2016, 11:17 PM

My experience was less favorable. As you probably already know, there are no current models that will fit this space size, so you will either need to go larger or smaller on the opening (it's easier to go smaller, but these units are barely large enough to begin with.) Also, the new units are only two-way, so you lose the ability to run off 12VDC (I used this feature when we were traveling because the propane pilot kept getting blown out, causing the reefer to shut down.)

I had to disassemble part of the RV to get the box out to replace the cooling unit. You will have to carefully dig the old CU out because they are foamed in place, and because they are foamed in place, the replacement CU was a less than perect fit. The replacement CU failed within 3 years, but by that time the people that provided the CU had gone out of business. Apparently, there is an art to rebuilding these properly, and we had to buy yet another CU through a more reliable vendor with an extended warranty. It has been working well since then, however.

I would put the cost of the CU at around $500+ with the extended warranty, IIRC, and again, the fit of the CU is not all that great but they give you a tube of mastic to goop it up. It is a lot of work, too...it might not be so bad if you don't have to disassemble the RV like we did (twice!), but be careful digging out the old CU to avoid damaging the box.

DandTPerez · 01-02-2016, 10:27 PM

Is there a way to leak check them? I see there's a port on it. Is that for charging? There's something in there still. If he bypasses the circut board with 120v and the element heats up will the cooling section still cool without the circut board? And how long should we leave it hooked up and the board bypassed before we can tell what's going on? Wed like to keep this one if we can and I know we will probably need a circut board since something is burnt on ours and depending on what's up with the cooling unit we might need that too.